10+ Fabulous Things to Do In Berat: Albania’s City of A Thousand Windows

With plenty of things to do in Berat, from exploring the historic Berat Castle to wandering through the quaint neighbourhood of Mangalem and Gorica, your time in this UNESCO heritage site will be nothing short of memorable.

Berat, Albania

Torrential rain greeted us on our arrival in Berat. The Osumi river was the colour of mud, and endless columns of bruised black clouds hung low over it, into the valley and mountainside. A gap in the clouds made us hurry out of our hotel, and we made our way up the rain-drenched slope to Berat castle, Berat’s main attraction. We were only there a few minutes when the rain returned and we made our way to the Onufri Museum, one of Berat’s main attractions, and spent a long time looking at some incredible iconography and religious art. When we returned to the hotel, we were absolutely soaked but that didn’t deter us for we braved the rain for our first meal in the city: a delicious dinner at Lili’s Homemade Food. More on that later. Thankfully, the rain held up while we were polishing up a dish of stuffed aubergines, and thankfully didn’t soak us as we hop-skipped back to our hotel over puddles and slippery stones.

We woke up to gauzy sunshine and through our arched window. Berat is the “City of a Thousand Windows,” where the sun bounces off whitewashed houses stacked against the hillside like theater seats to a centuries-old drama. Here, the past lingers in the air like the scent of wood-fired bread and the winding streets whisper Ottoman secrets. The Mangalem and Gorica quarters are living museums—one Christian, one Muslim—yet the only real religion here is survival, told in the creak of wooden shutters and the hushed prayers inside ancient mosques and churches. But the city sprawls beyond these ancient quarters; pastel-painted buildings and modern apartment blocks crowd the banks of the Osum river.

Thankfully the rain gods had mercy on us and soon the valley was overflowing with bright winter sunshine and we spent our day hiking to the castle, exploring the many walks in the castle compound, and wandering through the neighbourhoods of Gorica and Mangalem. It being December, Berat was all decked in lights and after the terrible weather of the previous day, the whole city was out at the Christmas Market enjoying sausages and raki. The mood was all cheerful and joyous. We joined in the fun and watched a puppet show and dance performances that were being held on a makeshift stage in the market. We had an fantastic time in Berat!

Tourism is growing in Berat, but not fast enough to spoil it (at least that is how it appeared in December). Infrastructure is rough around the edges, so expect delays. Almost all the “Monument kulturor” are shuttered in the colder months. Public transport is hit-or-miss, and signage can be scarce. But that’s part of the charm of Berat. It is a place that rewards those who ditch the itinerary and get lost. Could the city do with smarter tourism? Of course– not bigger, not louder, just better. More restoration, fewer plastic souvenirs. More slow travelers, fewer tour buses.

Top Things to Do in Berat

1. Brief History of Berat
2. How to Reach Berat
3. Where to Stay in Berat
4. How Many Days Is Enough for Berat
5. Things to do in Berat: Explore A UNESCO Heritage Site
   1. Visit the Historic Berat Castle
   2. Stop by the Onufri Museum
   3. See the Ancient Frescoes of Berat
   4. Photograph the Gorica Bridge
   5. Tour the Ethnography Museum
   6. Explore the Neighbourhood of Gorica
   7. Amble Through the Winding Streets of Mangalem
   8. Xhiro on Boulevard Republika
   9. Hike to St. Michael’s Church
   10. Try Some Local Albanian Food
6. Things to do in Berat: Exciting Day Trips
   1. Explore Osumi Canyon
   2. Taste Some Berati Wines At A Local Winery

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Brief History of Berat

Berat, one of Albania’s oldest and most picturesque cities, has a rich history that spans over 2,400 years. Berat’s origins can be traced back to the ancient Illyrian tribe of the Dassareti. In the 4th century BC, the city was known as Antipatrea, named after the Macedonian general Antipater. During the Roman period, it became a prominent urban center. With the division of the Roman Empire, Berat fell under the jurisdiction of the Byzantine Empire and was renamed Pulcheriopolis.

In the 13th century, the city came under Bulgarian rule, then the Principality of Epirus. The Ottomans conquered Berat in the 15th century, and it remained under their rule for over four centuries, leaving a lasting impact on the city’s culture and architecture. Berat flourished as a center of trade and craftsmanship during the Ottoman era, with the construction of many of its iconic mosques, bridges, and houses.

The city played a significant role in the Albanian National Awakening during the 19th and early 20th centuries, contributing to the fight for independence from the Ottoman Empire. Berat was also a crucial site during World War II, serving as a stronghold for the Albanian resistance against Nazi occupation.

Today, Berat is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its well-preserved historical buildings, cobblestone streets, and vibrant cultural heritage. It continues to be a symbol of Albania’s rich and diverse history.

How to Reach Berat

Berat is one of the most popular destinations in Albania. We visited Berat on our 7 days in Albania tour. Berat is easily accessible by public transport from all major cities in Albania. Like in most of Albania, public transport is not organised and furgons, or minibuses / vans, are the main forms of transport. We arrived in Berat from Vlore on a furgon and it was an alright journey.

Public transport from Tirana to Berat: Furgons connect Tirana’s South and North Terminus to Berat and there are multiple services through the day. They take around 2 hours and tickets are cash only and paid in LEK to the driver. The terminus is connected to Tirana city centre by bus lines 4, 13B, and 5B.

If you are arriving by public transport and are staying in the old town, you can take the local city bus to Gorica bridge. The stop is on Rruga Antipatrea just outside the bus terminus (look for the bus sign).

PUBLIC TRANSPORT IN BERAT CITY | There’s a single bus route in Berat that connects the bus terminus to the neighbourhoods in the south of the city through Mangalem. There is no timetable but we noted that buses run every 20-30 minutes from early morning to late evening. Bus stops are clearly marked (look for the blue and white sign with a bus on it). Tickets are 40 LEK, payable in cash on the bus.

Where to Stay in Berat

Berat sees lots of tourists and there are many hotels and guest houses throughout the city. We recommend staying in the old town, in the districts of Mangalem or Gorica, to get a feel of the historic city.

Hotel Ansel | We stayed at Hotel Ansel and highly recommend it! It is located inside a UNESCO heritage property but the interiors have been modernised, so you have access to a modern bathroom, a TV, and other amenities. The views from Hotel Ansel are marvellous: you will be gazing at the terracotta-tiled white-washed houses of Gorica and the historic Gorica bridge from your window. There really can’t be a better location! Breakfast is included in the price and it is served in their in-house restaurant which has beautiful glass windows overlooking Gorica and the Osum river, so you can start your mornings savouring a platter of crepes, nuts, fruits, tomatoes, homemade jams, honey, toast, cheese, eggs…it really is an enormous platter! However, the hotel is only accessibly by a flight of stairs.

Hani i Xheblatit | If you don’t mind the stairs, another excellent guest house located on the winding alleyways of the Mangalem Quarters, Hani i Xheblatit offers you the chance to stay at a traditional Berati house.

Bed & Breakfast JOSIPH | If you want to stay within Berat castle, Bed & Breakfast JOSIPH is highly recommended. The family-run property offers lovely views of the surrounding mountains and has a beautiful rose garden. Breakfast is included.

How Many Days Is Enough for Berat

One day is enough for Berat if you are only planning to explore the city especially in the summer when daylight hours are longer. Add another day of you want to visit the wineries around Berat or the beautiful Osumi Canyon.

If you are travelling by public transport, I recommend keeping some buffer time in your itinerary. One and a half days should be enough if you only plan to tick off the major sights. To get as feel of the city and to wander the many alleyways in the UNESCO heritage town, allot two whole days to Berat in your itinerary. We are glad we kept two days because on the first day, it rained so torrentially that we weren’t able to see/do anything at all. This also meant that we couldn’t visit the wineries.

If you are travelling by furgons, plan to reach no later than the afternoon. Spend the day exploring the castle and surrounding areas. In winter, you will not be able to do much because daylight hours are shorter, so explore the neighbourhoods of Gorica and Mangalem the day after. Keep the wineries, if you want to visit them, on day 2 and spend the evening strolling on Boulevard Republika.

In summer, you can include the neighbourhood walks on the first day itself.

Things to do in Berat: Explore A UNESCO Heritage Site

There are lots of amazing things to do in Berat.

Visit the Historic Berat Castle

Berat Castle isn’t a ruin; it’s a neighbourhood. People still live here just like in the Jaisalmer Fort in Rajasthan, hanging their laundry where Byzantine emperors once plotted. Inside, the Onufri Museum stashes Albania’s most sacred iconography—gold-drenched and defiant, much like Berat itself. You can wander the ruins, including the ruins of the ancient Red Mosque– or visit one of the many orthodox churches that are tucked into the folds of this ancient complex or relish an Albanian meal on a sunlit terrace. The views from the castle terrace are stunning: rust-red roofs, verdant foliage, and rows and rows of mountains.

Berat’s historic castle, the main attraction of Berat, is perched atop a hill. We chose to walk to Berat Castle from our hotel, the lovely Hotel Ansel, in the Mangalem Quarter. A few steps uphill and we realised that it wasn’t the greatest of ideas for the path is very steep and there are no footpaths so you have to be careful because cars go up and down the road all the time. It is a short walk but hard for our unfit bodies, so when we reached the top, lungs busting and thighs cramping, we felt like we had summitted a mountain in the Himalayas! So, if you are like us, get a taxi (500 LEK). But all the panting and the cramping didn’t stop us from doing it again the next day. This time we took an alternative path and climbed up the hillside on a walking path that offered lovely views of Berat and the surrounding countryside and the riverine valley. It wasn’t as strenuous as the main route to the castle but steep nonetheless.

BERAT WALKING TOUR: If like us, you enjoy exploring a new city on a guided walking tour, opt for this highly-rated Berat walking tour that shows you some of city’s hidden gems.

Stop by the Onufri Museum

You cannot visit Berat within visiting the unique Onufri Museum (Muzeu Kombëtar Ikonografik Onufri) which is one of the must-visit places in Berat. The museum is located inside the Church of the Dormition of St Mary in the castle quarter. The museum was named to honour Onufri, a painting master of the 16th century. Stepping inside the museum is like stepping into a gilded sanctuary of artistic and spiritual heritage. The museum showcases 73 objects from Albanian churches and monasteries, many of which are from the Byzantine churches of Berat. Each piece tells a story of faith, devotion, and artistic mastery. Most of them were restored painstakingly after years of being locked inside dilapidated structures.

The Baroque iconostasis of the Cathedral of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, dated 1807, is also here and is an excellent example of traditional Albanian woodcarving. Under the floor of the apse on August 12, 1968, two Berat Codices were found, the “Codex Purpureus Beratinus” of the 6th century AD and the “Codex Aureus Anthimi” of the 9th century AD. They are registered in the list of the most important works of humanity, known as the “Memoire du Monde” under the protection of UNESCO.

The information boards are very good, and though the English translations can be shaky at times, the knowledgeable curators provide fascinating insights into the history and significance of each piece. Tickets are 400 Albanian Lek (December, 2024) and paid in cash at the ticket office. Photography is not allowed.

See the Ancient Frescoes of Berat

I had heard about the frescoes inside the Byzantine churches of Berat and really wanted to see them but the churches were all closed in December. These ancient churches, and there are some 20 of them inside the castle complex, don’t seem much from the outside but the insides have painted frescoes and also beautiful mosaics courtesy of the photos I saw on the internet. They reminded us of the grandeur of the frescoes we saw in the monasteries of the Fruska Gora National Park in Serbia. All I was able to see were some stunning frescoes inside the St. Mary of Blachernae Church through a gap in the wall but a very gruff man snapped his fingers at us and rudely gestured us to go away so we left. Despite being tucked deep in the shadows, we could see how vibrant they were, they incredibly beautiful and were sad that we couldn’t step inside the church.

Note that these churches are only open in the summer a for few hours every week, so plan accordingly.

Photograph the Gorica Bridge

One of the most iconic structures in Berat is the lovely Gorica Bridge that spans the Osum river and connects the two hillside neighbourhoods of the old town: Gorica and Mangalem. It is the oldest Ottoman bridge in Albania. It was originally built from wood in 1780, and rebuilt with stone in the 1920s.

Tour the Ethnography Museum

The Ethnography Museum of Berat is housed in a beautiful Ottoman-era building and showcases an impressive collection of artifacts that tell the story of daily life in this region. There are collections of intricately carved wooden furniture that are indigenous to the region, traditional costumes, and household items that offer a glimpse into the past. Unfortunately, it was closed when we visited but if it is anything like the Ethnography Museum in Kruje (that was absolutely fantastic), it is not to be missed. If you want a peep into the local customs and traditions of Berat and its surrounding areas, you must visit this museum.

Explore the Neighbourhood of Gorica

Crossing Gorica Bridge and stepping in the ancient alleyways of Gorica is like stepping into the past. The cobblestone streets wind their way through a labyrinth of white-washed stone houses, each with its own unique character and history. As we weave our way up and down the hill, through twisting roads, we can’t help but marvel at the beautifully preserved architecture. We gaze at the river, and the Mangalem Quarter with its rows of terracotta-roofed houses with their delicate timber balconies hugging the hillside. It is twilight. The rain clouds have shifted and the valley is bathed in purple light. Soon the lights come on and the shadows are lit in gold. Across the river, the little windows of the houses shimmer. A neighbourhood stroll through Gorica is one of the best things to do in Berat; savour it, don’t rush. Walk slowly along the cobbled streets, say hello to locals, greet the cats, admire the architecture, the views of the city.

During Ottoman times, Gorica was the Christian neighbourhood with two churches – St Soyridon’s (Kisha e Shën Spiridonit) and Church of St Thomas (Kisha e Shën Thomait). You can hear the church bells of the 18th century St. Spyridon’s tolling the hour from across the river. Behind the houses, a steep trail goes up the hill to the ruins of Gorica Castle. If you don’t mind a steep climb, the views of the valley from the top are pretty rewarding. Think lush green mountainside interrupted by terracotta rooftops bunched across both sides of a river. Best visited at sunrise on a guided Gorica hill walk who can help you navigate the route and also share the history of the ruins.

Amble Through the Winding Streets of Mangalem

We stayed in a historic property in the district of Mangalem on the right bank of the Osum river, across the neighbourhood of Gorica. Mangalem was the Muslim quarter during Ottoman times and sprawls across the base of the hill that is crowned by Berat castle. There are three main mosques here: the 16th century Sultan’s Mosque, the Lead Mosque and the Bachelors’ Mosque, and all are worth a visit.

Ambling through the winding streets of Mangalem is like stepping into a living postcard. The old town’s unique layout, with its narrow alleys and tiered houses, creates a picturesque setting. We stop by a shop selling homemade raki. We dine in the courtyard of a local chef. We spend almost an hour chatting with a lady who runs a guest house and loves Bollywood music. We admire lemon trees and sprigs of purple bougainvillea. We wander. The cobbled streets are narrow and they twist and turn across the hillside. We walk aimlessly, stopping briefly at the sound of laughter or the wafting aroma of food. It is almost like going back in time.

Xhiro on Boulevard Republika

Xhiro is an Albanian tradition, some would say it is the national pastime of the country. Taking a leisurely xhiro along Boulevard Republika is one of the best things to do in Berat. There’s no better way to experience the heart of Berat. Boulevard Republika with its many cafes and restaurants is one of the liveliest parts of Berat. As the sun sets, the boulevard comes alive with people of all ages, enjoying a Xhiro, a traditional evening stroll where you share stories with friends and family, trade gossip, engage in chitter-chatter. When we visited in December, the atmosphere was lively and cheery, with street vendors selling snacks and souvenirs, musicians playing lively tunes, and families and friends gathering to socialise. There was a Christmas Market and it was very festive. Lights were strung over the boulevard and up above the houses of Mangalem, there was an installation Santa and his reindeers on their way to deliver gifts. If you are tired from a day’s of walking, pull yourself a seat at a cafe and spend a leisurely time people-watching while sipping some coffee or a glass of chilled beer.

Hike to St. Michael’s Church

One of the main attractions of Berat, St. Michael’s Church stands precariously on the edge of a hill and is only accessible on a hike and since we were too tired after climbing up castle hill, we decided to see it from afar. The trail winds its way up the hillside, and I can imagine that it offers stunning views of Berat, including the rust-red tiled rooftops, and the surrounding landscape. The orthodox church dates back to the Byzantine era and features a few frescoes that have survived to this day. If you don’t mind an uphill walk, you must visit this Berat attraction.

Try Some Local Albanian Food

Of couurse, one of the best things to do in Berat is to try local food! From Berati beef (which is actually pork!) to Fergese, Berati cuisine is a long list of dishes we had never eaten before. The town has several eateries, cafes, and zgaras and we could only visit a few during our two days in Berat tour. These are some of the places to eat in Berat that we recommend:

• Lili’s Homemade Food | Thanks to overwhelmingly recommendations for Lili’s Homemade Food, we booked a table over WhatsApp (bookings are a must especially in summer because the dining area is in the family’s courtyard and has a limited number of seats) and had one of our best meals in Albania. Lili, our host, is an incredible person, very proud of Berati food and brimming with happiness. He welcomed us with so much warmth! For dinner, we ordered the stuffed aubergine (vegetarian) which was simply delicious, a succulent beef qofte, and tavë koshi, the Albanian national dish of lamb and yogurt baked in a claypot. We also drank homemade wine made by Lili’s father and a shot of raki which warmed us on a night of freezing downpour. Lili’s wife does the cooking and she is a very good cook; every dish we had was memorable. Certainly, one of the most delicious things to do in Berat!
• Tori Restaurant | We stumbled upon this gem of an eatery that seems to be very popular with locals. We just had a snack here, a delicious tru kotolet (calf brain omelette) and some beer while seating outside in the sun. Tori does local classics such as tripe and chicken liver that you won’t get at touristy eateries but the menu also has popular items such as Berati beef. It is as local as it gets!
• Traditional Food Anxhelo | Another reddit find, Traditional Food Anxhelo is a female-run eatery that serves local Albanian fare at unbelivably cheap prices. It is, like most canteen eateries in Albania, primarily a lunch place but they are open for dinner (some dishes may sell out). The staff speak limited English but they do have an English menu that you can order from. For less then £10, we had a filling dinner of Gjellë me patate (a homely potato stew that reminded me of potato curries from West Bengal), sausages, and beef fillets. Everything was very tasty and the staff were patient and happy to help us with any questions.
• Pastiçeri Tori | This very busy pastry shop seems to be very popular with locals. One bite into their luscious Tres Leches told us why. You must try the pastries here, from baklavas to cakes and ice creams, everything looks amazing.

We also heard great reviews of Zgara Zaloshnja and Friendly House but weren’t able to eat there on this trip.

WANT TO LEARN ALBANIAN COOKING? Join this friendly traditional Albanian cooking class where you will learn to make two different classic Albanian dishes.

Things to do in Berat: Exciting Day Trips

If you have an extra day in Berat, here are some things to do around Berat.

Explore Osumi Canyon

Exploring Osumi Canyon is an adventure that will take your breath away—both literally and figuratively. As you set out on your journey, you’ll be surrounded by towering cliffs and lush greenery that create a dramatic and awe-inspiring landscape. The canyon, carved over centuries by the Osum River, offers a variety of activities, from hiking and swimming to kayaking through its crystal-clear waters. As you navigate the winding trails, you’ll be treated to stunning views of the canyon’s unique rock formations and vibrant flora. The sound of the rushing river below provides a soothing soundtrack, enhancing the sense of tranquility and connection with nature.

Taste Some Berati Wines At A Local Winery

One of the best things to do in Berat is to go wine tasting at a local vineyard. Tasting Berati wines at a local winery is a memorable experience and highly recommended for anyone seeking a glimpse into the rich viticultural heritage of the region. Unless you have a car, the wineries around Berat are best visited on small group wine-tasting tours. Expect to hear about the history of wine-making, stories of Berati winemaking traditions. and the unique characteristics of the Berati terroir. While we weren’t able to visit the wineries due to inclement weather, we tasted local wines from Nurellari Cellars at Hotel Ansel and they were very indulgent!

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