We are walking the John Muir Way in short sections in no particular order or direction. We will use public transport from Edinburgh to get us to the starting point and back. This post is about the Water of Leith Visitor Centre to Prestonpans walk, one of the sections on the John Muir Way.
John Muir Way | Scotland
From Queensferry, the John Muir Way (JMW) goes east to Edinburgh. It cuts through the city, from northwest to southwest, through the neighbourhoods of Cramond, Clermiston, Carrick Knowe, Slateford, Brunstfield, the Jewel, and Brunstane. Between Slateford and Bruntsfield, the JMW follows the Union Canal towpath, one of Edinburgh’s favourite walking paths. It exits the Edinburgh Council borders at Musselburgh and heads into the charming seaside towns of East Lothian.
If you are new to our website, we are walking the JMW in short sections from our home in Edinburgh. This is the second section we have completed. The first one was the John Muir Way: South Queensferry to Boâness Walk.
Our favourite parts of the Water of Leith Visitor Centre to Prestonpans walk section of the John Muir Way is the bit along the Union Canal, the woodland path along the Brunstane Burn, and along the River Esk estuary and the Firth of Forth in Musselburgh. The Union Canal towpath is lovely in any season; in summer, it can be a bit overgrown in parts but it is a great spot to forage for berries. The Brunstane Burn Path is one of our recent discoveries and we love it. It is mostly a woodland walk: old-growth trees, birch and elm, gigantic rhubarbs and wild carrots, and sprays of wildflowers in the summer. There’s the gurgling burn and loads of birds and it really is very quiet and lovely. The River Esk estuary is one of the hit spots in the city for birdwatchers. The Canada geese and mute swans are always bobbing in the Esk. Out towards the forth, you can spot a whole host of seabirds and sometimes, birdwatchers with hi-tech scopes vying to spot rare birds.
Though this section is totally through urban areas, you are almost never next to traffic. Instead, you navigate a maze of interconnected trails that run like channels of solitude through bustling Edinburgh. If you live in Edinburgh and want to start walking a long-distance path but are intimidated by the very idea, we recommend starting from this section of the walk. You are never too far from home, and you can walk as much or as little as you want because you are always close to a bus stop. At the end of the day, you have completed a section of the John Muir Way. Go to a pub and celebrate!
A little introduction about the John Muir Way: The John Muir Way is one of Scotlandâs Great Trails. It runs 215 km (134 miles) from Dunbar on the east coast to Helensburgh on the west coast. It is named after John Muir, a Scottish-American naturalist, author, environmental philosopher, and early advocate for the preservation of wilderness in the United States. In the US, he is known as the âFather of National Parksâ for the pivotal role he played in establishing them. The trail starts in Dunbar, where Muir was born, and ends in Helensburgh, where he set sail for America. It opened in 2014 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Muirâs death.
Water of Leith Visitor Centre to Prestonpans Walk
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Water of Leith Visitor Centre to Prestonpans Walk: The Route
We did the Water of Leith Visitor Centre to Prestonpans Walk over two days, thanks to the rain. We started where we left off, at the Water of Leith visitor centre in Slateford, with the goal of walking to Musselburgh but we only walked till The Jewel on the first day. On the second day, we headed from the Jewel with the goal of making it to Musselburgh but ended up clocking a few more miles and finished at the Prestongrange Museum, just outside Prestonpans.
Water of Leith Visitor Centre > Union Canal to Leamington Lift Bridge > Bruntsfield Links > Holyrood Park > Innocent Railway Cyclepath to Duddingston > Jewel Park > Brunstane Burn Path > Fisherrow Harbour > River Esk Estuary > Prestongrange Museum
- Start: Water of Leith Visitor Centre, Slateford
- End: Prestongrange Museum just outside Prestonpans
Water of Leith Visitor Centre to The Jewel Walk: 10 km / 6.2 miles
From our home, we took Lothian buses 26 and 44 on a Sunday that started off dry and overcast despite a yellow rain warning. Because the weather looked utterly at odds with the forecast, we decided to get out. To be honest, I had a cold and wasn’t too keen but we woke up to the haar clinging to the church steeples and completely shrouding Arthur’s Seat and thought we could click some moody photos if we went out. By the time we were at Slateford, the haar had vanished and slivers of sunshine was washing away the gloom.
The Water of Leith visitor centre has a cafe and toilets (open 10 am to 4 pm), and a nice selection of books and gifts, including guides for spotting wildlife along the Water of Leith. We walked under the viaduct and up the staircase to the Union Canal. We love walking along the Union Canal; it is so different in every season. In summer, the towpath is hemmed with foliage. There are brambles and berries and hosts of pink fireweed and willowherbs. There were quite a few boats– we saw one called Florence gliding along gently and the bright purple Lochrin Belle ferrying a group of partying grannies– on the canal that afternoon, and despite the rain forecast, the path was very busy. Those beautiful houses overlooking the canal always bring me so much joy! Someday I shall live in one of those houses and sit in my garden by the canal and read…
On we walked past the lovely Polwarth Church and the boat house, past rowers, and a swan family. It was my first time seeing cygnets, who unlike their parents, have grey downy feathers and a black beak. We spent a while watching them, then continue on the John Muir Way to Leamington where the path leaves the canal towpath and heads into busy Edinburgh. We crossed the Leamington Lift Bridge and walked to Bruntsfield Links. If you are feeling peckish, Burntsfield is home to some of Edinburgh’s best cafes and eateries. From the Links, you can get some lovely views of Edinburgh Castle. There were a few folks teeing; the weather was still bright and dry. We pressed on towards Newington, where we picked up a snack from the Sainsbury’s before heading into Holyrood Park. We really wanted to eat one of those tasty cheesecake from Pudding’s, but there were no available tables.
The Water of Leith Visitor Centre to Prestonpans Walk then follows the National Cycle Route 1 to Duddington and onwards. Arthur’s Seat and Salisbury Crags, which were shrouded in haar just a few hours ago, stood with their heads held high under an overcast sky. The low road to Duddingston has been closed for a while now due to the risk of falling stones from Samson’s Ribs which you can spot– look for the long rib-like formations on the hillside– from the trail. We walk past the gates of the Wells O’ Wearie Cottage and soon we are at the end of the Innocent Railway Tunnel. Though the walk doesn’t go through the tunnel, you can always pop in and explore a bit. It is regularly used by cyclists and walkers, and the other end opens up in a housing development.
From here, the John Muir Way path follows the cycleway. This section may be somewhat boring unless you are an avid botanist who enjoys documenting plants and flowers. In summer, it was full of plants. It was mostly empty except for cyclists who zoomed past us. Weather-wise, all was well so far but near Duddingston Loch, rain clouds started rolling in briskly. We crossed the Innocent Railway Bridge where you can see remnants of railway tracks. The Innocent Railway was once Edinburgh’s first railway line, and ferried coal from the mines of Dalkeith to power the city of Edinburgh. We crossed Duddingston Road and continued along the bike path towards the Jewel. Drops of rain had started to fall as we walked along the path that goes through Jewel Park and along the Niddrie Burn, the banks of which are so dense with foliage that you can barely see the water. We spotted some giant rhubarb plants!
It went fast from drizzle to pouring rain. We didn’t bring our rain pants, and because I already had a cold, we decided to walk as fast as our legs could carry us through Jewel Park to the A6106, where we could take bus 21 or 49 home. The next section would have to wait a few days. Looking back, it was a good decision because the rain persisted for hours and had we decided to continue, we would have been soaked, which would have further aggravated my illness.
The Jewel to Prestonpans Walk: 9 km / 5.6 miles
We resumed our John Muir Way walk on a Friday evening from where we left off. From the Jewel, the path runs along the Niddrie Burn through a lovely urban park called the Magdalene Gardens Play Park to the Brunstane Railway Station. There is scope of confusion while exiting the park: you have to walk through the tunnel, then cut across the parking lot of the Range to reach the station instead of continuing along the footpath. There is a JMW sign on a lamp post here but it is easy to miss. We cross the footbridge over the railway tracks, then follow the Bunstane Burn Path. Another confusion here, take the path that goes downhill on your left instead of ploughing straight ahead.
The Brunstane Burn Path is one of our favourite walks in Edinburgh because it runs through a quiet woodland with lots of birds and old-growth trees. It was upgraded in 2014 in preparation for the official opening of the John Muir Way. In summer, it is very lush. We spotted berries and birches, those gigantic rhubarb plants again, and various other plants. Just before walking under the railway tunnel, there’s a homemade sign for a wildflower trail which, if you are walking in spring or early summer, might be worth a detour. We stop by a few times to admire the swaying stalks of wheat in the fields that surround Newhailes Estate before pressing on. The evening is overcast and breezy, but the late summer sun is still blazing brightly in the west.
Once we exit the Brunstane Burn Path, there’s a short section along the A199 on the way to Musselburgh where we leave Edinburgh and enter East Lothian. Musselburgh welcomes us warmly with signboards and a giant stainless steel mussel sculpture called “Memory and Reflection” by local artist Michael Johnson. If you look closely, you can see that the barnacles attached to the musselâs shell are engraved with symbols representing the history of Musselburgh, from its Roman occupation to the Battle of Pinkie Cleugh.
Next stop, Fisherrow Harbour: we love to hear the sounds of boats jangling in the harbour, so we spend a few minutes dilly-dallying and looking back towards Portobello. This part of the shore is called Fisherrow Dunes and it is crowded with dune grass. There are benches overlooking the sea, if you want a few minutes to relax and gaze into the infinite. The path turns inland at the mouth of the River Esk and you have to walk a few metres to cross the Esk. It was smelling somewhat foul in this area so we didn’t stop but walked quickly towards Musselburgh Lagoons.
The Esk estuary was full of birds: we spotted ducks and swans, and so many other species we couldn’t identify but if you want to know about recent sightings, check birdguides.com. We saw two flocks of ducks flying from the woodland towards the estuary. We also passed Gill White’s “Remembering Together” sculpture of a feather. Remembering Together is a national project aimed at helping Scotland’s 32 local authorities reflect on their unique experiences of the Covid-19 pandemic and you can spot art works along walking paths throughout East Lothian. We follow the signs and walk around Musselburgh Cove. A family is enjoying the sunset from a rocky outcrop on the beach. We exit the trail near the Prestongrange Museum just outside Prestonpans from where we take the bus home.
Water of Leith Visitor Centre to Prestonpans Walk: Useful Information
Logistics
- Distance: 19 km / 11.8 miles
- Signage: Well signed throughout.
- Difficulty: Low. The path follows the Union Canal towpath, then goes through Brunstfield Links and follows National Cycle Route 1 to Brunstane. From Brunstane, the path goes to Musselburgh and follows the coast to Prestonpans.
- Public transport: Lothian buses are available at both start and finish: Water of Leith Visitor Centre (buses 20, 34, 36, and 44), Musselburgh (26, 44, 46, 48, X6, X7, 113, and 124), Prestonpans (26).
- Public Toilets: Available at various points along the walk: Water of Leith visitor centre (10 am to 4 pm), Meadows, Asda Jewel (minor detour), Fisherrow Lidl (short detour), Musselburgh (short detour). Besides, there are lots of cafes and pubs along the way.
- Food: Cafes, restaurants, and pubs throughout.
What to Bring
- Comfortable walking shoes
- Camera or smartphone for photos
- Water and light snacks
- Optional: binoculars for spotting birds along the Union Canal and River Esk estuary. We recommend the Merlin App for identifying birds.
Places of Interest Along the Way
There are some interesting places to visit on the Water of Leith Visitor Centre to Prestonpans Walk.
- Arthur’s Seat (detour): This ancient volcano offers a moderate climb with well-maintained paths and is a rewarding detour for stunning panoramic views over Edinburgh and beyond. Allow extra time and bring water. In summers, the summit can get crowded.
- Innocent Railway Tunnel: This former railway tunnel, once part of the historic Innocent Railway that ferried coal from the mines in Dalkeith to the city of Edinburgh, now serves as a cycle and footpath. Its cool, echoing interior and historic stonework make it a memorable highlight. Note that lighting is dim.
- Dr. Neil’s Garden (detour): A peaceful, hidden gem near Duddingston Loch, perfect for a quiet break. This tranquil garden is full of plants, ponds, and places to sit. Ideal for reflection or a light picnic amid beautifully maintained greenery. Open 10 am to dusk daily.
- Newhailes House (short detour): Step back in time with a visit to this 18th-century Palladian villa once home to the Dalrymple family. The short detour from the Brunstane Burns Path offers a chance to explore historic interiors or enjoy a coffee at the on-site cafĂŠ. A National Trust membership will offer you free entry to marvel at the the rococo interiors, Italian marble fireplaces, Chinese sitting room and impressive fine art collection.
- Artworks and Sculptures in Musselburgh: There’s “Memory and Reflection”, a giant stainless steel mussel at the entrance to Musselburgh. On the path that skirts Musselburgh Cove, there’s Gill White’s sculpture of a perched feather with its spine curved upwards to the sun.
- Musselburgh Lagoons (short detour): A haven for birdwatchers and nature lovers, this coastal detour offers views across the Firth of Forth and access to rich wetlands. Great for spotting waders and waterfowl.
- Prestongrange Museum: An open-air museum telling the story of Scotlandâs industrial past, from coal mining to brickworks.
Finishing Pint
Because there weren’t any pubs where we ended our walk, so we had a pint at our local, The Foresters Guild, in Portobello.
Water of Leith Visitor Centre to Prestonpans Walk: Conclusion
This Water of Leith Visitor Centre to Prestonpans Walk of the John Muir Way is interesting because despite being in the city of Edinburgh, we barely walked next to traffic. Instead, we walked through a maze of interconnecting walking paths and cycle paths, by canals and burns, through urban parks and along the shore. There were only a few bits where we were actually walking past houses in neighbourhoods and along busy traffic. However, this section is mostly paved which can take a toll on your feet. Time flies because the walk isn’t challenging and were it not for the twin hurdles of health and rain, we would have done both the bits at once. There are also lots of places of interest along the way, which means lots of ways to get distracted and go on detours. Some lovely cafes, pubs, and restaurants along the way too which means you can take as many breaks as you want. The trail in this section is never too far from a bus stop, so you can walk as much or as little as you desire. You can also continue on the John Muir Way along the John Muir Way: Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk.
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