Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk: John Muir Way

We are walking the John Muir Way in short sections in no particular order or direction. We are using public transport from Edinburgh to get us to the starting point and back. This post is about the Prestonpans to Aberlady walk, one of the sections on the John Muir Way.

John Muir Way | Scotland

A 14 KM walk from Prestonpans brought us to the charming village of Aberlady. The Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk section of the John Muir Way is, in our opinion, one of the most scenic walks on the east coast of Scotland. It runs along the North Sea coast, through towns such as Prestonpans, which was once known for its salt panning industry, where you can see murals and heritage sites that echo its industrial and battle-scarred past. The battles of Pinkie Cleugh and Prestonpans were fought on these very lands and you can read about them on information boards along the walk. As you walk further east, Prestonpans gives way to the charming fishing villages of Cockenzie and Port Seton. These are historic harbours, only a handful of working ones in East Lothian, with their brightly painted boats and lobster creels. If you arrive at the right time, you can see the fishing boats come in and fishermen hauling their catch from sea to land. Along the way, you’ll find rows of traditional stone cottages: low-roofed, whitewashed or sandstone, often with red pantile roofs. These cottages were once home to generations of fishing families and still line the narrow lanes near the harbours. As you walk further on, the houses disappear and the trail skirts the sweeping beaches and rocky shorelines of Longniddry, before meandering through windswept dunes and thickets of sea buckthorn near Aberlady. It’s a peaceful stretch rich with wildlife– we spotted a family of seals near Gosford House–, seaside hamlets, and scenic views across the Firth of Forth.

After completing the last section, Water of Leith Visitor Centre to Prestonpans, which was mostly through the city of Edinburgh except for the last stretch around Musselburgh, this section was a welcome coast walk. Coast walks are our favourite because we love being near the sea, and we have done a few in the UK. Some of our favourite coast walks are:

• Walking The Arbroath Cliff Trail: From Auchmithie to Arbroath
• John Muir Way: South Queensferry to Bo’ness Walk
• South Queensferry to Cramond Walk Through Dalmeny Estate
• Craster to Alnmouth Walk: Northumberland Coast Path
• Dunstanburgh Castle Walk, Northumberland
• Buckie to Cullen Walk: Moray Coastal Path
• Fife Coastal Path: Burntisland to Aberdour

The Musselburgh to North Berwick coastal stretch of East Lothian is very attractive. The walk is easy because it is mostly at sea level; some bits can be slippery or muddy but there’s nothing dangerous or tough. Lothian buses cover almost the entirety of the Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk except for a small section between the Port Seton caravan park and Longniddry Bents 1, so you choose to walk as little or as much as you want. The weather was a mix of clouds and sunshine on the day we walked which made it all the more beautiful. Walking along the promenades and beaches at low tide in the sunshine on a July afternoon was simply gorgeous! We saw families making the most of school holidays and summer sunshine on the beaches. There were walkers and cyclists enjoying the day, and curious beachcombers searching for treasures. A game of volleyball was on, and kids tried their skills at using fishing rods. Everybody looked happy. Not only did we get to enjoy perfect views of Edinburgh– Arthur’s Seat all the way to the Forth Bridges– but we were also blessed to see some seals and so many birds.

A little introduction about the John Muir Way (JMW): The John Muir Way is one of Scotland’s Great Trails. It runs 215 km (134 miles) from Dunbar on the east coast to Helensburgh on the west coast. It is named about John Muir, a Scottish-American naturalist, author, environmental philosopher, and early advocate for the preservation of wilderness in the United States. In the US, he is known as the “Father of National Parks” for the pivotal role he played in establishing them. The trail starts in Dunbar, where Muir was born, and ends in Helensburgh, where he set sail for America. It opened in 2014 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Muir’s death.

Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk

• Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk: The Route
  • Prestonpans to Seton Sands Walk – 7 km / 4.3 miles
  • Seton Sands to Aberlady Walk – 7 km / 4.3 miles
• Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk: Useful Information
  • Logistics
  • What to Bring
  • Places of Interest Along the Way
  • Finishing Pint
• Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk: Conclusion

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Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk: The Route

The Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk is one of the sections of the John Muir Way in East Lothian. It starts at the town of Prestonpans, then follows the scenic coast to Aberlady.

Prestongrange Museum > Prestonpans > Cockenzie > Port Seton > Longniddry Bents > Aberlady

• Start: Prestongrange Museum just outside Prestonpans
• End: The Old Aberlady Inn at Aberlady

Prestonpans to Seton Sands Walk – 7 km / 4.3 miles

We have walked parts of this section before but never at a go. We started where we left off the day before, at Morison’s Haven bus stop near the Prestongrange Museum. From here, the John Muir Way hugs the coast. Before long, we reached a fork in the road: the John Muir Way actually goes through the town of Prestonpans but we didn’t want to walk alongside traffic, so we stayed on the coast. On the main route, you can see some of Prestonpans’ murals. There are some 35 murals that you can see on the Prestonpans Mural Trail, and some of them pay tribute to the town’s past as a centre of the salt panning industry, which had a long history in Prestonpans and the last one in the town (and indeed the last one in Scotland) closed in 1959.

Note that the promenade walk can only be accessed at low tide. Be cautious, as parts of it can be slippery and covered in seawater and moss. We walk past the mural of John Muir, after whom this trail is named, then continue along the promenade before stopping at the Lidl at the far end of town to buy some sandwiches for lunch. The path then climbs up a little, and there are gorgeous views of the sea. We can see Arthur’s Seat and the Edinburgh skyline from here.

Soon we could see Cockenzie Power Station– the waymarked route passes between this and the seashore. Because there was a temporary diversion here, we followed the diversion around the power station and rejoined the route at picturesque Cockenzie Harbour, which was built in 1834 to service the increasing demands of the coal industry. Lots of large information boards here, so you can’t miss the diversion, but it was sort of intimidating walking past those massive buildings. We were glad to reach the harbour, where we spent a few minutes admiring the boats in the harbour and reading their names. There’s something really lovely about Cockenzie: it is always so peaceful out here; the only sounds are those of the fishing boats and the sea.

Up next, one of our favourite spots on this walk: a beautiful natural bay. Few locals were soaking in the summer sun here; it was a beautiful day, and the bay was the perfect shade of blue. If you aren’t in a hurry, spend some slow minutes here. It is beautiful. According to an interpretation panel next to the bay this was in fact the Old Harbour around which Cockenzie grew. It is believed that Cockenzie gets its name from this cove as it was known from its Celtic name of Cul Cionnich, which means “The Cove of Kenneth”. From here, it is a lovely coastal walk to the harbour at Port Seton, which, like Cockenzie, is still an active fishing port, being one of only a few left in East Lothian. Next to the harbour, there’s a small shop called Harbour Framing where you can pick up a small artwork to take home. A little further, we reached Port Seton Links, where we rested awhile and ate some of our lunch. The short stretch from Cockenzie harbour to Port Seton is one of my favourite parts of the Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk.

The Tranent to Cockenzie Waggonway: The Tranent to Cockenzie Waggonway, Scotland’s oldest waggonway, was established in 1722. This two-and-a-half-mile, horse-drawn wooden waggonway connected the collieries at Tranent and the salt pans at Cockenzie and the harbour at Port Seton. Salt panning was the main industry in Cockenzie, and most of the village was employed by the industry. In 1815, the wooden tracks were replaced with iron rails, and by the 1880s, it was integrated into the wider rail network, though the northern section eventually ceased operation with the harbour’s decline.

Beyond its industrial significance, the Tranent and Cockenzie Waggonway holds the distinction of being the first railway in the world used in warfare. It transported troops to the Battle of Prestonpans, which took place on September 21st, 1745, a pivotal event in the Jacobite Rising where a Jacobite army defeated the government’s army loyal to King George II. The railway’s embankment even served to conceal cannon during the battle. While the waggonway is no longer operational, much of its original route can still be traced. The 1722 Waggonway Heritage Group actively works to study and preserve its remains. They have uncovered the remains of old sleeper blocks, a turntable, and old salt pans in a 2017 archaeological dig.

Seton Sands to Aberlady Walk – 7 km / 4.3 miles

The Seton Sands to Aberlady Walk is a fabulous coastal walk. We have walked till Longniddry Bents before, lured by the promise of fish n’ chips at Alandas, in different seasons, and it is always lovely. Rested, we start again and follow the signs towards the caravan park. The John Muir Way continues along the B1348, but because we didn’t want to be near traffic– the noise overwhelms me and I cannot enjoy the surroundings– we chose to walk on the beach. We make our way down through the dune grass. The tide’s just gone, so the sand is wet and it is always nicer to walk on wet sand. We stop way too many times to admire shells! We spot a stranded jellyfish. The beach is a merry place on a sunny day like this: there are lots of families with young children, happy puppies, and a group of at least a dozen people enjoying a game of volleyball. A father is teaching his son how to use a fishing rod. A child is gazing intently into rock pools. There are colourful tents and chairs in the shade of trees that border the beach. People sunbathing and reading paperbacks. Bright blankets on the dunes. The perfect Scottish summer.

We make our way south over the sand, cross a rickety bridge, and enter a forest of what-are-they-called. Nothing jolts our memory, and no matter how hard we try, we cannot remember the name of the berries. “Remember, we had them in our pannacotta at Cafe Canna on the Isle of Canna?” I tell Aninda. “I do,” he says, “not gooseberry, not goji berry.” Our frustration is broken as we approach Alandas, but we have sandwiches today, so we resist the temptation and sit looking at the anti-tank blocks that ring the shore here. The views from Longniddry Bents are lovely on a clear day like this: you can see all the way to the Forth Bridges, and the skyline of Edinburgh with Arthur’s Seat looming like a giant.

Lunch done, an awful turmeric-ginger shot downed, we head off through more of those bushes. We run through every fruit we can name but no, not the correct one. “The same ones that grow in Ladakh,” I say, “Just look it up,” but Aninda won’t, so we continue scratching our brains, but not for long because just a few metres before the red sandstone gates of Gosford House, we spot a family of seals. There are two perched in the typical seal pose– we recently found out that it is called the banana pose– on rocks. There’s one sort of perched on another rock. At least three heads are bobbing nearby. What a treat! The last time we saw seals on a walk was on the Fife Coastal Path: Burntisland to Aberdour walk. We love spotting wildlife, and this is the second big one since we started walking the John Muir Way after the gorgeous herd of deer we spotted on the John Muir Way: South Queensferry to Bo’ness Walk.

Soon we are walking past the gates of Gosford House. Set in 5000 acres of parkland, the house is the seat of the Earl of Wemyss and March and was built in 1800 for the 7th Earl of Wemyss. You can’t actually see Gosford House from the road; entrance to the public is limited to open days advertised on the website as it still is a private residence. Imagine living in a house like that!

All’s fine until Aninda “twists” (his words, not mine) his foot and screams so loudly I fear he has broken a bone. I look around to see the bus stop right across from us and suggest that we rest a while on the verge, then take the bus home. He wants to try some more, and less than a metre ahead, he is magically cured and walking at a pace. While he defends why he screamed so loudly, the path meanders along the noisy road– no beach walking here– and then enters some woods. In summer, the undergrowth is crowded with ferns. The thick foliage dampens the noise of the traffic. The trees are old; their trunks thick and twisted with age. Sunshine filters in through the canopy; we walk through the chiaroscuro. Past the entrance to Craigielaw Golf Course and the Scottish Ornithologists’ Club, past the beautiful Aberlady Parish Church, and we are in the cute village of Aberlady, where every house is straight out of a children’s illustration. Cottages adorned with climbing roses and ivy, bright coloured doors, white washed walls– you get it. We head straight into the Old Aberlady Inn for a pint, and out of the blue, Aninda remembers the name of those berries. “Sea buckthorn,” he says. “Yes!” I am just overjoyed to finally call it by its name! Sea buckthorn bushes crowd the East Lothian coast, and you can buy frozen juice from Sea Buckthorn Scotland. It is extremely rich in Vitamin C and Omega 7. It is also at the Old Aberlady Inn that we meet one of the loveliest people we have ever met, and who, surprisingly, happens to live near us in Edinburgh, and we chat for a long, long time. We say goodbyes but not before sharing numbers and promising to visit each other. From Aberlady, it is bus 124 to Edinburgh.

Definitely a fine end to the day’s walk!

Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk: Useful Information

Logistics

• Distance: 14 km / 8.6 miles
• Signage: Good. Diversions are clearly marked.
• Difficulty: Low.
• Public transport: Lothian buses are available at both start and finish: Prestonpans (26) and Aberlady (X5 and 124). Also at Seton Sands (26) and Longniddry (124, X5) should you want to walk a shorter distance.
• Public Toilets: Prestonpans, Prestonpans Lidl, Port Seton, Longniddry Bents (near the Alandas takeaway)
• Food: Cafes at Prestonpans, Alandas at Longniddry Bents, pubs and cafes in Aberlady.

What to Bring

• Comfortable walking shoes
• Camera or smartphone for photos
• Water and light snacks
• Optional: Binoculars for spotting birds and wildlife along the Firth of Forth. We were lucky to spot some seals near Gosford House.

Places of Interest Along the Way

There are some excellent places of interest along the Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk.

• Battle of Prestonpans Jacobite Museum: Small but engaging museum inside the old Prestonpans town hall dedicated to the 1745 Jacobite victory; ideal for history lovers exploring Prestonpans. The collection has a diorama of the battlefield, artefacts relating to the battle and its participants, artworks illustrating the event, and sections of the famous Prestonpans Tapestry. Entry is free; donations welcome.
• Prestonpans Mural Trail: Rich public art highlighting local history and culture, including murals dedicated to Prestonpans’ salt panning industry, the Tranent‑Cockenzie Waggonway, John Muir, local pottery, and more.
• Cockenzie and Port Seton harbours: Historic harbours with working boats, fishing creels and nets, and charming rows of old fishing cottages. Perfect for a scenic rest stop.
• Gosford House: Grand neoclassical mansion set in expansive parkland; you can enjoy estate paths, woodland, and glimpses of the elegant architecture. Note that entry is ticketed and the house is only open to public seasonally. You have to book in advance from the website.
• Scottish Ornithologists’ Club: A haven for birdwatchers with exhibitions, a viewing deck, and access to Aberlady Bay Nature Reserve, a coastal highlight rich in wildlife.

Finishing Pint

Our pint of the day was at the Old Aberlady Inn where we met a lovely couple who, in turned out, are our neighbours! Meeting them was certainly one of the highlights of the day.

Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk: Conclusion

The Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk is a beautiful walk! The weather was gorgeous and the way was scenic. We loved walking past the harbours and reading the names of boats. We loved walking by the old bay in Prestonpans. The beach walk from Port Seton to Longniddry was excellent. Beautiful views of the Edinburgh skyline, dune grass swaying in the wind, an abundance of wildflowers– all very lovely. Spotting the seals was one of the two highlights of the day. The other one was meeting a very lovely couple at the Old Aberlady Inn. We are grateful for this amazing day!

If you are looking for a day walk, the Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk is an excellent option; however, if you don’t want to walk longer, I recommend starting at Cockenzie (unless you want to see the murals in Prestonpans) and continuing past Aberlady to Gullane through the Aberlady Bay Local Nature Reserve.

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