We are walking the John Muir Way in short sections in no particular order or direction. We will use public transport from Edinburgh to get us to the starting point and back. This post is about the East Linton to North Berwick walk, one of the sections on the John Muir Way.
John Muir Way | Scotland
Work and life kept us off the trail, and we didn’t return to the John Muir Way until November. The last leg we had done before this was the East Linton to Dunbar Walk on a searing hot day in August that left us drained, so the weather was a welcome change. We walked from East Linton, north towards the sea through the rolling farmlands of East Lothian. It was a beautiful day: sunny and windy, and we walked along a burn, through woods and across farms. We also climbed the North Berwick Way, which afforded stunning views of North Berwick, the Firth of Forth, and the surrounding countryside.
This section of the John Muir Way from East Linton to North Berwick is a gentle and varied walk, linking quiet East Lothian villages with open countryside and expansive sea views. The route follows farmland, river paths, and woodlands, and skirts the North Berwick Law and ends in the charming seaside town of North Berwick. With its mix of rural calm and seaside atmosphere, it’s an accessible and rewarding walk that captures the character of the John Muir Way without demanding too much effort.
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East Linton to North Berwick Walk: The Route
The East Linton to North Berwick walk is one of the sections of the John Muir Way in East Lothian. It starts at the charming village of East Linton, home to one of our favourite bakeries in Scotland, and runs through the rolling East Lothian countryside and ends at the seaside town of North Berwick.
- Start: East Linton
- End: North Berwick
East Linton to North Berwick – 13 km
We took the bus from Edinburgh to East Linton and started our walk outside the Mart. East Linton’s Mart is a jumble of shipping containers repurposed into street food stalls and coffee. If you need some caffeine before starting, head to Hometown Coffee for a cup.
We walked north along Bridge Street and joined the John Muir Way at the point where we had left off (at the corner of Drylaw Terrace and Preston Rd) on our walk from East Linton to Dunbar. Past the cottages, we stepped off the sidewalk and passed through a gate to join a footpath. There’s a horse in a blue cloak staring at us. A telephone tower loomed overhead. Far ahead, there’s North Berwick Law. It was a beautiful November morning: crisp and sunny. To our left was the Bonnie Wee Bothy, a self-catering stay with gorgeous views. We walked along the undulating path, past bushes bright with rowan and rosehips. To our left was a little stream, and we walked over a small bridge over it.
From here, the path meandered through farmlands. We passed another Stonelaws cottage and more horses. There is a very lovely holiday cottage here, the Stonelaws Farm Holiday Cottages. I think it makes for a nice, relaxing holiday. We continue through farmlands, and the path becomes muddier. At one point, we were walking along a road pocked with gigantic potholes. It was a working farm, and the road seemed to be regularly used by tractors and other heavy farm machinery, so you must be careful and also remember to wear the right shoes, especially if you are walking after a rainy day. We walked through Craigmoor Woods, where the trees were mostly bare. The autumn foliage was lost; only a tree or two still had bright yellow and copper leaves. We pressed on through the woodlands, crossed a private road, and climbed through a thicket of trees. I couldn’t identify the trees, and wondered if it was laurel.
We were now in the Balgone Estate. There was a sign directing us to Balgone Lake and the HERD cafe. We took a detour left in search of the lake, and there it was shining behind a forest of bullrushes with thick black plugs. We lingered awhile and ate one of our potato sandwiches. In summer, there’s a sunflower trail on this estate, and in autumn, a pumpkin patch. We didn’t see either, so they are probably at the other end of the lake. We retraced our steps to the fork and joined the John Muir Way. Throughout this section, the signage was excellent, and we barely had to check All Trails.
After this, there was a long stretch of path bordering farmlands. The wind had picked up, and it was blowing right at us, which was making it somewhat hard to walk. To our left rose the craggy North Berwick Law, and we decided to climb it. After a thirty-minute walk and scramble up and down, we were back on the John Muir Way, and soon we reached North Berwick’s Lodge Gardens, where we stopped to eat the boiled eggs that we had packed for lunch. Then we headed straight into Steampunk for a warming cup of coffee. The wind had chilled our bones. Later, we strolled along the promenade and ate our remaining sandwiches.
After a quick stroll along High Street and resisting the cute shops that pepper North Berwick, we headed home on bus 124. What a beautiful day!
If you aren’t exhausted yet, we recommend hiring an electric bike and exploring the countryside and coastline around North Berwick. It is absolutely stunning!
Climbing North Berwick Law – 2 km
We climbed North Berwick Law on a whim. It isn’t part of the North Berwick Law, and our legs were somewhat tired, but we decided to anyway. It is steep, and soon I was panting desperately. But ahead of me was a toddler who was ascending the slopes effortlessly, and I said to myself that if he can do it, so can I. Thus, I went, up and up and scrambling up rocky grey slopes on my hands and knees. Short people like me are often at a disadvantage on hillwalks because our legs are too short to cover the distance. Hence, the crawling.
But the views were incredible!
The Firth of Forth was a dazzling blue, and the islands glimmered in the sunlight. At the top, there’s a whale jawbone arch made of fibreglass. By this time, the wind had really picked up, and my sub-50-kilogram body wasn’t enough of an anchor. So we began our descent. It was hard, and the wind made it harder. In parts, I had to sit and crawl down the slope like a toddler! The entire climb up and down the hill didn’t take long, and we were back on the John Muir Way about forty minutes later.
Stay in North Berwick
North Berwick is a lovely place to spend a day or two. The town is charming, the views are stunning, and there are some excellent restaurants too. North Berwick is also home to two of the region’s best hotels.
- Marine, North Berwick: Set in a Victorian property overlooking the Firth of Forth, the Marine showcases the finest of Scottish hospitality. The interiors are a designer’s dream! Opulent fabrics, twinkling chandeliers, dark woodwork, and beautiful wallpapers make for a stylish stay. Expect expertly curated rooms, luxe experiences, and stunning views.
- Nether Abbey Hotel: Another excellent place to stay in North Berwick is the Nether Abbey Hotel. Spacious rooms, friendly staff, and lovely views make for a wonderful stay.
East Linton to North Berwick Walk: Useful Information
Logistics
- Distance: 13 km
- Signage: Very good.
- Difficulty: Low (unless you climb North Berwick Law)
- Public transport: East Coast buses and trains are available at both start and finish.
- Toilets: Available at various points at start and finish:
- Cafes in East Linton (you may have to buy something), East Linton library (only open Mondays and Tuesdays), and The Mart in East Linton.
- Public toilets in North Berwick are at the harbour.
- Food: Cafes and pubs in East Linton and North Berwick.
What to Bring
- Comfortable walking shoes
- A camera or a smartphone for photos
- Water and snacks
Places of Interest Along the Way
North Berwick Law: This pointy little hill makes for an excellent detour!
Extra Tips
- Start early to enjoy quieter paths and better light for photos
Finishing Pint
We had a coffee at Steampunk Coffee, whose brews are highly recommended by coffee enthusiasts, and because we needed something warm after the chilly winds on North Berwick Law. We finished with a pint at the David Macbeth Moir in Musselburgh.
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Have you walked the John Muir Way from East Linton to North Berwick?
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