We are walking the John Muir Way in short sections in no particular order or direction. We will use public transport from Edinburgh to get us to the starting point and back. This post is about the South Queensferry to Water of Leith Visitor Centre walk, one of the sections on the John Muir Way.
John Muir Way | Scotland
Wondering if you should start in Queensferry or Slateford? There’s only one right answer: South Queensferry. Why, you ask? Because you can start your morning with the freshest, most delicious pastries at Dune Bakery. Start early to get the best of Dune; they also do specials on weekends. Once the hunger gods are appeased, head east past the historic Hawes Inn and right under the rust-red Forth Bridge to enter the scenic Roseberry Estate, which is also known as the Dalmeny Estate. The South Queensferry to Slateford Walk then lingers along the coast, before cutting right past the stately Dalmeny House, and heading towards Cramond.
At Cramond, you enter the grand old city of Edinburgh, but the traffic is still far away because the trail threads through the affluent neighbourhoods of Cramond and Barnton, then climbs up Corstorphine Hill, one of the highest points on the eastern bit of the John Muir Way. The South Queensferry to Water of Leith Visitor Centre Walk finished at the Water of Leith Visitor Centre in Leith.
This stretch of the John Muir Way has several interesting highlights, such as:
- The charming seaside town of South Queensferry, which, if you have never been, makes for an excellent day trip from Edinburgh
- Dalmeny House and the scenic Roseberry Estate
- The conservation village of Cramond and the bridge over the River Almond
- Corstorphine Hill, one of the seven hills of Edinburgh
South Queensferry to Water of Leith Visitor Centre Walk
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South Queensferry to Water of Leith Visitor Centre Walk: The Route
We actually walked the South Queensferry to Slateford section in two days because we had walked the Dalmeny Estate many times and wanted to leave it for a day when we didn’t have much on the agenda. The second part we completed after work on a weekday, which is why we cut it short at Slateford instead of going into town. Because the route is mostly flat with some inclines and the Corstorphine hill summit, it can be done in one go. Therefore, we put these two sections together in one post.
South Queensferry > Dalmeny Estate > Cramond > Clermiston > Barnton > Clermiston > Corstorphine Hill > Carrick Knowe > Saughton Park > Water of Leith Visitor Centre
- Start: Walkers Drive bus stop, South Queensferry (Lothian bus 43 from Edinburgh)
- End: Water of Leith Visitor Centre, Slateford
South Queensferry to Clermiston Walk – 13 km / 8 miles
We start at the Walker Drive bus stop, the same stop where we had started the John Muir Way: South Queensferry to Bo’ness Walk. This time, we are headed east towards Edinburgh. South Queensferry is very charming; the merry harbour is full of boats, and it is a sunny day. We take a detour to the waterfront and watch the iconic bridges of Queensferry: there are three, with the red railway bridge being the most historic. It is Sunday in August, and the town is teeming with weekenders. We walk past the pastel-painted houses on the main street, past The Ferry Tap to our first stop of the day: Dune Bakery. Dune lives up to its hype; its baked goods are alone worth a trip to Queensferry. We join other hungry cake-eaters. When we finally get to the counter, we order a monkey bread, a cookie, and a love cake to go and sit on a bench by the water and devour our treats. Dune only has a few seats that are almost always taken, so if you are looking for a more leisurely meal, go to the Manna House Bakery. Their sandwiches and soups are delicious. We also love their tarts and pies. Manna House is very popular, so you might have to wait for a table. If you need a toilet break, there are public toilets along the promenade; these are the last ones until the Miller & Carter Steakhouse in Cramond, where you might have to buy something to use the loo.
The cruise to Inchcolm Island is heaving, and so is Hawes Inn. We walk under the railway bridge, past the infinite line of parked cars, into Roseberry Estate. It is a busy day on the trail. Cyclists zap past us. There are groups of walks. Families are picnicking on the sandy beaches. It is only August, so we are surprised to see some yellowing leaves. Later, we learn that this year has been one of the hottest and driest in history, and trees are going into survival mode and dropping leaves and branches. It has been an excellent year for bees and other insects, but with flowers drying sooner than usual, they may not have enough to store for winter. Trees and plants are stressed; it is not good. Scientists say it is too early to predict the outcome if such extreme spells happen more regularly.
DALMENY ESTATE WALK: The Dalmeny Estate walk is one of our favourite walks in Edinburgh, and we have done it in various seasons. If you want a more detailed post on this walk, see our post South Queensferry to Cramond Walk Through Dalmeny Estate. It is beautiful in every season. In late spring, you can see the rhododendrons and the pheasants. Earlier in the year, bluebells and daffodils carpet the land. The sheep, with their pristine wool coats, look adorable in the winter against the frosty landscape. In autumn, the foliage is spectacular; shades of red and orange, umber and yellow adorn the trail. In summer, the trees are verdant, and there is a lush green canopy of leaves.
Past Barnbougle Castle (which has a ghost story), we skirt the stately Dalmeny House, which is all covered in scaffolding. It is currently closed for major refurbishment works. The golf course seems thirsty; patches of brown and yellow have replaced the soft green grass. We follow the signs and continue towards Cramond. The last section is somewhat boring, and with the sun blazing and barely any shade, it was sort of uncomfortable, so we were glad to reach the River Almond. We stood on the ancient bridge, in the cool breeze for a while regaining our energy. A few yards from here, we spotted some ponies behind a farm gate and went to say hello. They were very cute.
From Cramond, it is a completely urban walk. We walk past the giant Leylandii hedges of J.K. Rowling’s House (Templar’s Cramond bus stop for those Harry Potter fans) and through the leafy suburbs of Barntons, past McMansions and posh cars. After all, this is one of Edinburgh’s most affluent neighbourhoods. From Barnton, the trail crosses Davidson’s Mains Park, then goes across the A90 and climbs uphill through the neighbourhoods of Clermiston to the bus stop at Clermiston Crescent.
Here’s where we stopped for the day, and took bus 1 home. The next section on the South Queensferry to Water of Leith Visitor Centre Walk started at the same point and headed south towards the Corstophine Walled Garden.
Clermiston to Water of Leith Visitor Centre Walk – 8 km / 5 miles
The Clermiston to Slateford section of the John Muir Way runs entirely through the city but feels miles away. The path runs over Corstorphine Hill, through the quiet neighbourhood of Carrick Knowe, and along the tree-lined Water of Leith.
NOTE: If you want to end/start your walk at Clermiston, take Lothian buses 1, 21, or 26 from Clermiston Crescent. 1 and 26 will take you to Princes Street. If you are from out of town, the Leonardo Hotel next to Corstorphine Hill can be an excellent base for you to complete the eastern bit of the John Muir Way from South Queensferry to Dunbar.
The first half of this section took us over Corstorphine Hill. We stopped a while to admire the beautiful flowers inside Corstophine Walled Garden. It is always so lovely and peaceful in there! You can rest here on one of the benches or walk along the short boardwalk under the weeping willow– such a magnificent tree. After a bit of exploring, we walked uphill, past Corstorphine Hill Tower (open every Sunday 2 pm – 4 pm from spring to September end), and through the sunlit woodlands. If you have read Robert Louis Stevenson’s Kidnapped, you will know that Corstorphine features in the last chapter:
“We came the by-way over the hill of Corstorphine; and when we got near to the place called Rest-and-be-thankful and looked down on Corstorphine bogs and over to the city and the castle on the hill, we both stopped, for we both knew without a word said that we had come to where our ways parted.”
In the late afternoon light, the thick trunks of the tree seemed to glow. Signage on the hill is available, but it can be confusing; we found the AllTrails app handy while navigating the many trails that crisscross Corstorphine Hill. The path wraps around the fence of Edinburgh Zoo before descending. The weather was brilliant, and on the way down, we got perfect views of Murrayfield Golf Club, Edinburgh Castle, and the gorgeous Pentland Hills.
The route then skirts Carrick Knowe Golf Course, past Balgreen tram stop, and heads towards the Water of Leith. You can see Murrayfield Stadium looming ahead. Look out for JMW stickers on lampposts. Because this bit of the Water of Leith was closed, we had to follow the diversion to Saughton Park, where we got distracted by the flowers in the walled garden and spent some time lingering around the gazebo. In Saughton Park, families were enjoying the good weather. Kids in the skatepark, children on balance bikes, happy puppies playing– happy times.
From Saughton Park, it’s a fairly straightforward walk to Slateford along the Water of Leith. It was also nice to be in the shade on what was one of Edinburgh’s hottest days this year. We crossed the bridge and followed the trail beside the Commonwealth War Graves and the Saughton Mains allotment. In July, the allotment looked like a world of treasures: there were ripe red cherries, garnet-like raspberries and fat juicy strawberries, salad greens, and a whole host of vegetables and fruits. We have walked this section countless times when we lived in Longstone.
Note that this last section of the Water of Leith isn’t paved and gets quite muddy after rain. Near the Water of Leith Visitor Centre, there’s a short staircase that leads to Asda Chesser. That’s where we ended our walk for the day. If you need the restrooms and a quick snack, head to the Asda; buses 4, 34, 35, 44 (except the 35, all go to Princes Street) run from the Slateford Station stop. If you don’t need the Asda, ignore the steps and walk past the Water of Leith Visitor Centre to the bus stop on Lanark Road for buses 20, 34, 36, and 44 (the 34 and 44 go to Princes Street).
South Queensferry to Water of Leith Visitor Centre Walk: Useful Information
Logistics
- Distance: 21 km / 13 miles
- Signage: Excellent except for Corstorphine Hill, where we had to rely on All Trails.
- Difficulty: Low. The ascent to Corstorphine Hill is easy, but if you have bad knees, you might find a hiking pole useful for the descent. The route is mostly paved, but there are some muddy bits near Eagle Rock and the Water of Leith.
- Public transport: Lothian buses are available at both start and finish: South Queensferry and Slateford.
- Public Toilets: Available at various points throughout the walk: South Queensferry, Miller & Carter Cramond Brig (you may need to buy something), Drum Brae Library (minor detour), Saughton Park, Asda Chesser and Water of Leith Visitor Centre (Slateford)
- Food: Cafes, restaurants, and pubs throughout. Special mentions: Dune Bakery, Roguebros, Manna Cafe in Queensferry; lots of excellent places in Gorgie and Dalry (short detour from Saughton Park); Imperial Palace in Slateford
What to Bring
- Comfortable walking shoes
- A camera or a smartphone for photos
- Water and light snacks
- Optional: binoculars for spotting birds along the Water of Leith. We recommend the Merlin App for identifying birds.
Places of Interest Along the Way
- South Queensferry: The charming seaside town of South Queensferry makes for an excellent day trip from Edinburgh. Go on a heritage walk, or pop into the lovely local gift shops. South Queensferry also has some excellent restaurants and cafes, so make sure you have some time to grab a bite.
- Dalmeny Estate & House: Almost half of the South Queensferry to Water of Leith Visitor Centre Walk goes through the scenic Dalmeny Estate. The 4.5 miles along the coast from South Queensferry to Cramond is one of our favourite stretches of the John Muir Way. You can also visit Dalmeny House (ticketed).
- Lauriston Castle (detour): One of the loveliest locations in Edinburgh is Lauriston Castle. It is beautiful year-round, but especially in spring when the cherry trees in the Japanese Garden bloom. Lauriston Castle is one of the best places to see cherry blossoms in Edinburgh. The castle is ticketed, but the grounds with its lovely views of the Firth of Forth are one of the best free places to visit in Edinburgh. There’s also a cafe, should you want some tea and cakes.
- Corstorphine Walled Garden: The quaint walled garden on the slopes of Corstorphine Hill is the perfect place to catch your breath and have a rest.
- Corstorphine Hill Tower: Built in 1871 by William MacFie of Clermiston as a memorial to Sir Walter Scott on the hundredth anniversary of the author’s birth, the Corstorphine Hill Tower is now a famous viewpoint on the summit of the hill. It is open on Sunday summer afternoons; if you time your walk accordingly, you can enjoy lovely views of Edinburgh, the surrounding countryside, and the Pentland Hills.
Extra Tips
- Start early to enjoy quieter paths and better light for photos
- Check the Water of Leith website for diversions and route closures
Finishing Pint
Because there were no pubs where we stopped for the day, we took the bus home and stopped for a pint (aka some orange wine) at Herringbone on London Road.
South Queensferry to Water of Leith Visitor Centre Walk: Conclusion
This section of the John Muir Way, i.e., the South Queensferry to Slateford Walk, is a great mix of semi-rural and city walks. The first part through the Dalmeny Estate is obviously prettier but the Water of Leith with its shady trees and chirping birds holds its own. This section is also a nice walk if you live in Edinburgh and are looking for a day’s adventure. What makes it more accessible is the fact that outside the Dalmeny Estate, you really can walk as much or as little as you want because there are public transport options all along the way. Besides, you get to start your day with those fabled pastries from Dune Bakery!
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