Stunning beaches, wooded mountains, historic cities, and hearty food make Albania an unmissable destination. This 7 days in Albania itinerary shows you how to see the best of Albania by public transport.
Albania
In winter, the tourists are all gone and the countryside is quiet. We travel from city to city on furgons with turkeys fattened for Christmas feasts: deep valleys and sun-dappled hills that give way to granite mountains and snowy peaks. We linger by the sea: daylit hours are spent sunning and marvelling at the impossibly blue waters of the Adriatic Sea, and in the evening, we eat our weight in food while listening to local music, try chest-singeing rakis, and stroll in the muslin moonlight listening to the soft lapping on the waves. When we are in the mountains, we are greeted by immaculate sunsets and sunrises, baskets of homemade bread, jam-slathered crepes, and platters overflowing with fruits and cheese. We explore ruins of castles, peep through slivers of windows for glimpes of Byzantine Art, make our way through markets full of woollen kilims with bright patterns, bowls carved of wood, and felt hats and fluffy shoes. We warm our hearts with the festive cheer of Christmas Markets and our bones with sunshine and espressos. We walk a lot. We stroll through city streets, squeeze through alleyways, learn about history in museums tucked inside bunks tucked inside the marrow of the earth. We eat at busy canteens, pointing at items in buffets and asking questions and listening as someone tells us patiently about the food that they eat, the food of their country. They urge us to try this and try that and we eat and we drink and time flies and suddenly we are on the last day of our 7 days trip in Albania toasting to a new adventure in a new country with a glass of local wine.
For the latter half of the 20th century, Albania was completely isolated from the rest of the world. After decades of being trapped behind borders by Enver Hoxha’s paranoid dictatorship, the fall of the communist era in 1990 opened the doors for cultural exchange and ushered in the modern era. Today, there are more Albanians living outside Albania than inside the political borders of the country. Though most news about Albania in the UK media revolves around the Albanian drug mafia– Albania is the largest exporter of cannabis in Europe– and illegal migrants crossing the channel on boats, it has not deterred visitors who are lured by the country’s stunning mountains and glimmering beaches that are everywhere on social media these days. It has been branded as Europe’s “undiscovered gem”, the place where you can go for an “off the beaten track holiday” and explore the “unknown”.
Albania is located in the Balkans, bordered by Greece to the south, Montenegro to the north, and North Macedonia and Kosovo to the east. To the west lies the Adriatic Sea, beyond which is Italy. Albania an enchanting destination to visit, particularly in the low season i.e., in winter when the tourists who flock to the riviera have departed and the shacks have closed and the beaches are yours and yours alone to explore. Outside the touristy areas, you can stumble across eateries and canteens where recipes aren’t altered for visitors, where you can eat like the locals do.
If you are a person of colour and as brown as me, you may get stared at but Albanians are a friendly lot and most of the times they are simply curious, and we did not feel unsafe. Outside Tirana and it being the low season, we barely saw any other person of colour. A lady we met while ambling through the winding streets of old Berat was delighted to meet us– two travellers from distant India by way of Scotland– and told us about her love for Bollywood music. English is not spoken widely and in a lot of eateries, English menus are unavailable, but if you make an effort, you can easily bridge this gap. It seemed like a lot of folks, especially the older generation, speak Italian.
⭐ Booking your trip via the links on this page will earn us a small commission, at no extra cost to you. Thanks for your support – Mohana & Aninda.
MONEY IN ALBANIA: The Albanian currency, the Albanian LEK (ALL), is a closed currency and can only be exchanged within Albanian borders. Cash is king in Albania, so make sure you have access to cash at all times. We used our Wise Card and our Starling Debit Card to make card payments in Albania. We did take some cash but we weren’t able to convert them because they were Bank of Scotland currency, so we had to use the ATM to withdraw some money. Note that all ATMs in Albania charge a minimum 500 LEK to withdraw cash (2024).
If you are travelling from Scotland, note that banknotes issued by Scottish Banks cannot be exchanged in Albania. Make sure that if you are carrying cash, you are carrying Bank of England notes only.
DO INDIANS NEED A VISA TO VISIT ALBANIA: Yes, Indians need a visa to enter Albania. There are no visa-on-arrival or e-visa provisions.
However, Indian passport holders with a valid UK, US, or Schengen visa or resident permit can enter, transit, or stay in Albania for up to 90 days in a period of 6 months without an Albanian visa. It is best if your UK/US/Schengen visa is valid for at least 3 months from the date you plan to leave Albania.
We had to answer a few questions at the British Airways Passport and Visas desk at Heathrow Airport and they cleared us. At the immigration desk at Tirana Airport, we were asked if we had return tickets and if we had already booked our accommodations. No documents were checked. Note that Albania does not stamp passports and border forces record your entry and exit on their systems. (December, 2024)
That said, visa regimes keep changing. Contact the Albanian embassy for the latest information before you travel.
Is A Week Enough Time to Visit Albania
A week, of course, is terribly insufficient to explore Albania and more so when you are travelling by public transport but it is a good amount of time to get an overview of the country, visit some of the more popular and more accessible cities and villages by public transport. Two Together’s 7 days in Albania itinerary gives you a taste of everything Albania has to offer: it takes you to the famed Albanian riviera, to a city called Vlorë which is easily accessible by buses from major cities. From Vlorë, it takes you to the an UNESCO heritage town of Berat, also known as the City of a Thousand Windows. The next destination on this weeklong Albania itinerary is the dynamic young capital of Albania, Tirana where you can party as much or as little as you want, learn about the country’s fraught history, and ride a cable car over the mountains, and from Tirana this itinerary takes you up in the mountains to Krujë where a historic castle and an ancient market await you.
7 Days in Albania Itinerary
- Days 1 & 2: Vlorë
- Explore the bustling seaside promenade and the colourful old town
- Go on a day trip to Karaburun Peninsula or south to Dhermi
- Days 3 & 4: Berat
- Explore the UNESCO heritage town, historic castle and churches
- Visit local wineries for wine tastings, try local Berati restaurants
- Days 5 & 6: Tirana
- Explore the bustling modern city, chic neighbourhoods, superb restaurants and stylish bars
- Day 7: Krujë
- Spend a relaxing day in a historic mountain village with stunning views and an ancient market
How To Reach Albania
Albania is easy to reach from other European countries. There are also regular flights from Turkey.
BY FLIGHT | There’s only one international airport in Albania, the Nene Tereza Airport in Tirana. Regular flights are available from almost all European countries.
BY ROAD | International bus services are available to major cities in European countries including Skopje, Ohrid, Sofia, Vienna, Dubrovnik, and more.
7 Days in Albania Itinerary
Our 7 days in Albania itinerary is optimised for the following travel goals:
- We wanted to get an overview of the country, to see a bit of everything and this itinerary does a decent job of making that happen.
- Because we weren’t renting a car or hiring taxis, we needed to ensure that all the destinations were easily and reliably accessible by public transport. We also wanted to keep journey times at a minimum.
If you want to explore more of the Albanian Alps also known as the Accursed Mountains, switch Vlorë and Berat with the gorgeous mountain villages of Valbona and Theth. Note that this journey is not recommended in the winter due to occassional heavy rainfall and snowfall and increased chances of landslides and roadblocks.
If you want to see more of the Albanian riviera, consider travelling south from Vlorë to Dhermi, Himare, Sarande, and Ksamil. Make your way back to Tirana via Gjirokaster. The riviera gets very busy during summer when tourists descend here to soak in the gorgeous honeyed sunshine; if you want a quieter holiday and better hotel rates, consider visiting in spring or autumn.
Days 1 & 2: Vlorë
Located on the stunning Adriatic Coast of Albania is the bustling city of Vlorë, the first stop on our 7 days in Albania itinerary. Vlorë is the perfect mix of city and sea: there are sweeping beaches and upbeat restaurants, albeit a bit empty in winter, and lots of things to do. We strolled along the promenade so many times, our skins warmed by the honeyed winter sunshine. There were people of all ages sunning themselves on the steps that led down to the startling blue waters. Young people enjoying their first winter of love, elderly folks chatting about the comings and goings of daily life, someone luxuriating in puffs of smoke, children running around and enjoying the Christmas lights– the promenade is incredibly lively and such a wonderful place in Vlorë to spend a few hours at at any time of day. We love exploring cities on foot and Vlorë was no exception. If you prefer a guided tour and want to know more about the city’s history, check this Vlore Walking Tour. We walked along the main street, past the glittering shops and the bustling cafes– cafes are everywhere in Vlorë and people love to congregate over coffee and byreks– to the old town of Vlorë where we photographed the colourful buildings, the magnificent Town Hall, and the ancient Muradie Mosque.
Vlorë is also an excellent destination for adventure lovers. The uninhabited Karaburun Peninsula is a rugged peninsula that juts out from the mainland. It is only reachable by foot or on boat trips such as this highly-rated tour to Karaburun and Sazan Island and is a truly an untouched paradise for adventurous nature lovers. It is surrounded by the Karaburun-Sazan National Marine Park, a magical place redolent with rich marine flora and fauna and sea caves such as the Haxhi Ali cave. If you are into diving, this is the place! You can also visit Sazan, Albania’s largest island and an old Cold War submarine base.
If on day 2, you would like something more adventurous or to visit a new place, take the bus to the idyllic seaside village of Dhermi, a few hours south of Vlorë. We considered this option but ultimately decided not to because we didn’t want to spent almost four hours travelling, especially in winter when daylight hours are already very short. Buses to Dhermi leave the Vlorë bus station a few times every day. If you don’t see a bus to Dhermi, enquire with the drivers of buses enroute to Himare.
Why Did We Choose Vlorë As The First Stop on Our Albania Itinerary
Unlike some of the more picturesque towns on the Albanian riviera, Vlorë is very easily accessible by public transport. Vlorë was the first destination on our itinerary because there was a direct bus from Tirana Airport to Vlorë which reduced travel time and made our first day in the country hassle-free. We could have gone to Shkoder but we really wanted to visit the riviera, at least part of it. Also, because we were travelling in winter, daylight hours were already short and it was already dark by the time we reached Vlorë. If we were travelling in summer or arrived on an early morning flight, we might have gone to Dhermi or Himare instead.
On this trip, our intention was to travel somewhat slowly instead of cramming too many places and/or too many hours of journey time in a day. There is not much to do in Vlorë but we had an amazing time strolling up and down the sweeping promenade, admiring the colourful houses in the old city, eating some delicious local Albanian food, and relaxing in our hotel reading and looking at the Adriatic Sea.
CAN I TRAVEL TO VLORE BY BUS FROM TIRANA AIRPORT? Yes, you can travel to Vlorë by bus from Tirana Airport. A local bus company called Hermes runs multiple services from Tirana Airport to Vlorë and back. Tickets are 1200 LEK (December, 2024) and must be paid in cash. Buses leave from the airport car park; look for the white van with a sign that says “VLORE”.
Days 3 & 4: Berat
You cannot go on a one week trip to Albania and not visit Berat! Afterall, this UNESCO heritage city is one of the most beautiful cities in the country and also one of the most photographed.
Rightly nicknamed “The City of a Thousand Windows” for the many windows that adorn the pretty white houses that cling to the hillsides on both banks of the River Osumi, Berat attracts visitors year-round. We were welcomed by downpours and thunderstorms that left us soaking and our jackets dripping like the rainclouds overhead. Thankfully, the next morning we woke up to mellow sunshine and walked uphill– our knees creaking and our lungs bleating– to the Berat Castle, the centrepiece of Berat and the city’s main attraction. We walked around the ruins, enjoyed the stunning views of the city of Berat, and spent a while admiring the artwork on display at the Museum of Iconography. It is such a unique place, Berat. The whitewashed houses on the hillside never fails to amaze you! We wandered through the two neighbourhoods that make up old Berat– Gorica and Mangalem–, strolled through narrow cobblestone alleys, said hello to cute cats, and took a lot of photographs. We also ate at local restaurants, enjoyed local Berati wines, and had the most wonderful two days.
One of the top things to do in Berat is visiting wineries. After all, Berat is known for its vineyards and wineries such as Cabo, Alpeta, and Nurellari which make excellent wines. We tasted some Nurellari wines at our fabulous hotel in Berat, Hotel Ansel, and we absolutely loved it. Our plan was to visit Berat Castle and explore the town on the first day and visit a Berati winery on the second day but inclement weather coupled with a flood warning marred our plans. We weren’t able to visit the wineries because the weather was terrible but if you would like to visit it, is is best to book a winery tour in advance because they sell out fast. Because there’s no public transport to any of the wineries from Berat, we highly recommend this small group wine tasting tour in Berat that takes you to a local Berati winery such as Pupa or Alpeta where you can sample a flight of wines and a raki. Note that the tour company selects a winery depending on the day’s availability.
CAN I TRAVEL TO BERAT BY BUS? Yes, buses to Berat are available from all major Albanian cities including Vlorë, Tirana, Gjirokaster, Sarande, and Korce. The Berat bus terminal is just outside the city; there’s a local bus that runs every 20 minutes and connects the bus terminal to the old city and further out.
Days 5 & 6: Tirana
We read a lot of mixed reviews about Tirana and were somewhat unsure about whether or not we would enjoy our time in Tirana. So having spend some time there, here’s our review: Tirana was absolutely amazing! I agree that there isn’t much to do, or tick off the to-do-travel-list, in Tirana but it is a fabulously walkable city full of interesting buildings and vibrant murals, bustling cafes and excellent canteens, and of course, the best bars. It is a city brimming with sunshine and energy; the vibe is modern and young, and very, very positive. We loved it as much as we loved our time in Belgrade, the capital of Serbia which we visited on our weeklong trip to Serbia.
On day 5 of our 7 days in Albania itinerary, we arrived in Tirana on a furgon from Berat. We spent two days in Tirana wandering through the city, looking at shops and cafes, people-watching, mural spotting, and simply immersing ourselves in the vibe of a city that we had never been to before. We visited cafes and ate our weight in Albanian food at local canteens where we often had to use Google Translate to translate the menus. We strolled through bazaars, admired the fresh local produce, and made our way to local zgaras and nibbled on charcoal-grilled sausages and roasted meat. If you prefer a guided tour, we recommend this highly-rated food tour of Tirana. We visited museums and read about Albania’s difficult history and the dark days of Enver Hoxha’s rule when Albanians lived behind an iron curtain. Our evenings were spent at the cheerful Christmas Market on Skanderberg Square and strolling through the festive streets of Tirana, and at fabulous bars such as Nouvelle Vague where we had some of the best cocktails we have ever had!
Days 7: Krujë
The mountainous village of Krujë is the final destination on this 7 days in Albania itinerary. Because of its location, Krujë offers breathtaking views of Tirana and the Albanian countryside all the way to the Adriatic. It is a popular destination for day-trippers from Albania and Durres who come here for a respite from the heat. Krujë’s main attraction is the historic Krujë Market: a narrow cobblestoned lane that is choc-a-bloc with shops selling vibrant kilims, jewellery, felt hats and slippers, and various other local crafts and souvenirs. We also visited the Krujë Castle which has been converted into a museum that offers a lot of insight into the town’s history, and the history of Skandenberg and the wars that he fought. Another major sight in Krujë is the Ethnographic Museum and we absolutely loved touring it and looking at the various ways that people lived in Krujë, their many trades, their dresses, and various other objects of daily lives.
Our final evening in Albania was spent drinking Albanian wine at Rooms Emiliano, a lovely hotel and restaurant perched atop Krujë, and revelling in the scarlet hues of a setting sun. Somewhere far away, the lights on the Adriatic slowly dimmed till we were no longer able to discern the blue. The wind picked up, the cold seeped into our bones, rubbed against our cheeks. The lights were coming on in the towns and cities in the foothills and we could see Tirana glistening like an open jewellery box. Here and there streaks of mists and clouds clung to crevices in the lofty, granite grey mountainside; everything glowed gold, then red before darkening to deep purple and inky blue. A pale moon hung silently in the lightless sky. Our trip had come to an end and it was time now to head home to Edinburgh.
CAN I TRAVEL TO KRUJE BY BUS? Yes, buses to Krujë run regularly from Tirana Terminal A bus station. Look for buses that say Krujë and not Fushe Krujë or F. Krujë which is a town at the foothills.
There are no direct buses from Tirana Airport to Krujë. However, some furgons that go from Krujë to Tirana go via Rinas and these are the ones that will drop you off at the airport. It is best to check with a driver at the bus stand.
We booked a taxi from Krujë to the Tirana because I hurt my feet (take good walking shoes to Krujë) and it was only £13 on Booking.com. If you don’t want any hassle on your way to the airport or have an early morning or late flight, it is best to book a taxi that will get you from your hotel in Krujë to Tirana airport.
What do you think of our 7 days in Albania itinerary?
Like it? Pin it!
Leave a Reply