Explore the scenic Aberlady to North Berwick walk along the John Muir Way. Easy coastal walk through East Lothian with Yellowcraig Beach. Guide & tips included. We are walking the John Muir Way in short sections in no particular order or direction. We will use public transport from Edinburgh to get us to the starting point and back.
JOHN MUIR WAY | SCOTLAND
We took the bus from Edinburgh to Aberlady and started our walk where we left off on our Prestonpans to Aberlady Walk – outside Aberlady Inn. The day’s plan is to do the Aberlady to North Berwick walk and thus complete the eastern half of the John Muir Way. After completing this section, we will have walked the entire trail between Bo’ness and Dunbar. We bought some pastries at The Old Bakehouse Tearoom, where some grannies were selling the cutest handmade knitware for Christmas. We bought a pair of bright yellow booties shaped like a duck for a friend’s daughter, then headed towards the coast. If you’re looking for easy walks near Edinburgh that don’t require a car, this is an excellent choice. We walked from Aberlady eastwards towards North Berwick, leaving the quiet village behind as the path opened out across the wide sands and grassy dunes of Aberlady Bay. It was a bright, breezy day, and the walk felt exhilarating, with big skies, seabirds calling, and long views across the Firth of Forth. The route alternated between shoreline paths and open countryside, with the sea never far away.
This section of the John Muir Way from Aberlady to North Berwick is an easy, scenic walk that showcases some of East Lothianâs finest landscapes. Passing through nature reserves, along beaches and golf courses, and across open links land, the route gradually leads you towards North Berwick, with the Law rising prominently ahead. Itâs a relaxed and refreshing walk, rich in wildlife and sea air, and a perfect introduction to the coastal character of the John Muir Way.
You can see a map of our walks here: UK walks tracker.
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Aberlady to North Berwick Walk: The Route
Aberlady to North Berwick â 11 km
We leave Aberlady village and head eastwards along the coast. A handful of cars are already parked outside the Aberlady Bay Nature Reserve, and walkers and birdwatchers are on their way into the dunes. We follow the signs for the John Muir Way and walk inland along a noisy motorway. We are headed to Gullane, another charming East Lothian village. At No. 10 Bakery, we pick up a delicious cardamom knot and enjoy a moment of rest in the wintry sunshine.
Up next, the gates of Archerfield Estate. We walk through the gates and walk through the woods, and suddenly, there is a deer in front of us. We watch it look at us and hesitate before crossing the path. It is a beautiful roe deer, muddy brown with a bushy white tail. We stand as still as we can, and I take a photo. It is a moment of utter beauty, gifts that this country keeps bestowing on us. We continue. Fallen leaves line the path; the sky is a soft blue through the leafless branches. Outside the woods, we stand in a patch of bright sunlight and watch what appears to be a murmuration of jackdaws or ravens. It’s busy, and several cars go towards Archerfield, where there is a cafe, a farm shop, and also a sauna.
We cross the street and follow the Dirleton Solar path, a unique, walkable and accessible scale model in East Lothian. You can walk from The Sun, situated in the village of Dirleton, to Neptune at the Archerfield Walled Garden, and we spend a few minutes stopping to read the information boards. Scaffolding hugs Dirleton Kirk; we walk past it towards the sea. The villas on Manse Road are old and beautiful. It is quiet despite it being the weekend, and we hardly see one or two people.
The next stretch of the Aberlady to North Berwick walk cuts through farmland, then skirts a sprawling development of newly-built houses. The sea is just beyond our reach, and we trudge on, and not long after, we find ourselves near Yellowcraig Beach. We stop to rest– there are public toilets here– and sit on a bench and eat sandwiches for lunch. Yellowcraigs is one of the best beaches on the John Muir Way. A stunning stretch of golden sand backed by dunes and pine woods that draws walkers and families from the city. The beach curves away to the north, pristine and relatively quiet, with the soft rush of waves in the distance. The dunes are backed by mature pines, their needles creating that distinctive woodland scent that mixes with salt spray.
But we pressed on, knowing North Berwick was waiting for us, though we lingered a few extra minutes to take in the view. The route turns inland from Yellowcraig, and suddenly you’re walking through farmland. Rolling fields stretched out on either side, and we felt the landscape open up around us. A horse in the distance watched us curiously, ears pricked, while sheep scattered as we approached. The path was well-marked and easy underfoot, winding through small sections of dense woodland where the light filters through in golden shafts. There’s something deeply restorative about the quiet of East Lothian’s countryside: just the wind in the trees, the cry of birds overhead, and that ever-present distant sound of the sea calling you forward. You can feel the space here, the room to breathe. Walking this stretch, you’re very aware of being caught between the inland quiet and the coastal energy you know is coming.
We skirt the edges of the North Berwick Golf Course. The John Muir Way has been rerouted away from the coast mainly due to coastal erosion, but also, I think, due to the golf course. We emerge on Abbotsford Road. From here, it is mostly tarmac walking past mansions. We can hear the sea, but not quite see it. The final stretch takes us along the golf course again, and then we are, finally, near the sea. The wind swirls around you here, the cry of gulls loud and insistent, the smell of salt and seaweed unmistakable. The town wraps itself along the curve of the bay, charming and lively. We sit down on a bench on Rotary Way and soak in the views of the sea. To our left looms Bass Rock.
What a beautiful day it had beenâexactly the kind of walk that reminds you why you love Scotland!
Yellowcraig Beach â A Lovely Diversion
If you have time, we’d recommend making a detour to explore Yellowcraig Beach more thoroughly. It’s one of those beaches that rewards lingering. Here, time seems to stretch, and the everyday world recedes. The sand is pristine and golden, backed by dunes sculpted by the wind and covered in tough marram grass. Behind that rise the mature pine woods, dark and fragrant. The beach feels both exposed and intimate somehow. You can see for miles, yet the curve of the bay makes it feel embracing.
On an earlier visit, we sat on a bench overlooking the sand, watching the seabirds work the shoreline. Oystercatchers called in that distinctive piping way, and occasionally we’d see them swoop and dive for fish in the shallows. The dunes are a naturalist’s treasure because they support lovely coastal plants and wildflowers (depending on the season). Photographers will find endless subjects here: the play of light on sand, the patterns left by the tide, the way the dunes frame the sea beyond. The whole detour adds about 1.5 km to your day, but it’s absolutely worth it if the weather holds. This is a place to sit for a moment and breathe.
Stay in North Berwick
North Berwick is a lovely place to spend a day or two. The town is charming, the views are stunning, and there are some excellent restaurants and cafes dotted throughout.
Marine, North Berwick: Set in a Victorian property overlooking the Firth of Forth, the Marine showcases the finest of Scottish hospitality. The interiors are a designerâs dream! Opulent fabrics, twinkling chandeliers, dark woodwork, and beautiful wallpapers make for a stylish stay. Expect expertly curated rooms, luxe experiences, and stunning views.
Nether Abbey Hotel: Another excellent place to stay in North Berwick is the Nether Abbey Hotel. Spacious rooms, friendly staff, and lovely views make for a wonderful stay.
North Berwick is also dotted with cosy B&Bs and self-catering cottages. The High Street is charming, full of independent shops and galleries. You’ll find plenty of restaurants serving fresh local seafood. Whatever you choose, North Berwick welcomes you warmly and gives you plenty of reasons to linger.
Aberlady to North Berwick Walk: Useful Information
Logistics
- Distance: 11 km
- Signage: Very good. John Muir Way markers throughout.
- Difficulty: Low (no significant climbing)
- Public Transport: East Coast buses serve both the start and the finish. North Berwick also has a train station and regular ScotRail services from Edinburgh.
- Toilets: Available at various points:
- Aberlady Bay Nature Reserve car park
- Public toilets at Gullane and North Berwick
- Cafes and shops in North Berwick
- Food: Cafes and pubs in Aberlady (limited) and North Berwick (plenty of choice). See our Top Things To Do in North Berwick on a day trip post.
What to Bring
- Comfortable walking shoes
- Waterproof jacket and trousers (Scottish weather can surprise you)
- Sun protection (sun cream, hat, sunglasses)
- A camera or smartphone for photos
- Water and snacks
- A dog lead if you’re bringing a furry friend. This is a wonderful dog-friendly walk in East Lothian, with plenty of open countryside and beaches for dogs to enjoy.
Places of Interest Along the Way
- Aberlady Bay Nature Reserve: One of Scotland’s first designated nature reserves, this wetland is home to over 170 bird species. Particularly impressive during spring and autumn migrations.
- Yellowcraig Beach: A pristine sandy beach backed by dunes and pine woodland. Perfect for a picnic or paddling break, and absolutely worth the detour.
- North Berwick Law: The distinctive volcanic hill overlooking the town. While not part of this walk, it makes for an excellent (if slightly challenging) afternoon detour if you’re staying in the area. We climbed the North Berwick Law on our East Linton to North Berwick Walk.
- Firth of Forth Views: Throughout the walk, you’ll enjoy expansive views across the Firth toward the mountains of Fife and beyond.
Extra Tips
Start early to enjoy quieter paths and better light for photos. The John Muir Way is well-signposted here, but it’s always wise to carry a map or have an offline route saved on your phone. Check the tide times before you go if you plan any beach walkingâcoastal paths can occasionally be affected by very high tides. Bring binoculars if you’re interested in spotting some of the 170+ bird species at Aberlady Bay.
Finishing Pint
We took the bus back to Edinburgh and had a pint at Bellfield Brewery in Abbeyhill. If you want something more substantial, North Berwick’s restaurants offer excellent fresh seafood and Scottish cuisine. The waterfront options are particularly good for fish and chips, or treat yourself to dinner at one of the more upscale establishments for a special evening.
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Have you walked the Aberlady to North Berwick walk section of the John Muir Way? Share your experiences in the comments below!
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