Windswept John O’Groats is the tip of mainland Britain. The tiny tourist village known for its endless vistas and seal colonies, and now a set of brightly painted sea-facing properties, welcomes countless tourists and seabirds every summer.
John O’Groats, Scotland | UK
Once the recipient of the notorious Plook on the Plinth prize in the annual Carbuncle Awards, John O’Groats has been revitalised thanks to £15 million in funding. Today John O’Groats is bustling with tourists who arrive in coachloads to visit the northernmost tip of Britain.
We had no plans for a John O’Groats trip but when our friends booked a holiday home there and invited us, we couldn’t say no. We arrived in John O’Groats by train and bus from Edinburgh to spend the better part of a week with our friends who were staying at one of the self-catering cottages. We pitched a tent at the campsite and were instantly struck by the breathtaking views of the Pentland Firth. There was Stroma in the distance. Further, the islands of Orkney glimmered in the August sunshine. Over the next few days, we spent exploring the area, walking over the windswept cliffs to see the majestic Duncansby Stacks, spotting seals and seabirds, waiting for a glimpse of a whale, revelling in the magnificent Perseids meteor shower, and watching some of the most gorgeous sunsets of our lives. We made a boatload of dumplings and ate and laughed together and spent late hours sipping wine and watching the sky turn gold to red. We drove through Caithness, marvelling at the remoteness of the moorlands and the farmhouses. We spent hours doing nothing, just soaking in the solitude, listening to the waves and the wind. It was a trip worth millions of memories!
Where is John O’Groats
John O’Groats is located at the northernmost tip of mainland Britain. It is the starting/ending point for the 1189-mile LEJoG (Land’s End to John O’Groats) walking route. It is part of the North Coast 500, a famous road trip route that goes through Scotland’s most scenic places such as the Applecross peninsula, Coigach, Assynt, Sutherland, and Caithness.
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How to Reach John O’Groats by Public Transport
Despite its remote location, John O’Groats is easily accessible by public transport from Inverness. We recently spent a weekend in Inverness and it is a lovely city to spend some time before you head up north. Book your tickets ahead on Omio.
BY TRAIN / The Inverness – Thurso railway is one of the most scenic train journeys in the UK. We travelled in August, at the end of summer, and the journey was mesmerising. As we travelled past charming hamlets and northwards along the North Sea, we spotted seals and a variety of birds. Then suburbia turned to wilderness and we were rumbling over wild Scottish moorland. Imagine travelling over open moors peppered by the last of the season’s purple heather. The setting sun painted the landscape in deep red light. To the west, the sun. The sky blazing red and gold. To the west, a sliver of the moon glowed in the purple-ish sky. Not a shred of clouds. I didn’t take a single photograph. I say still on my seat, watching the colours, the moving shadow of the train, the wind rippling the heather. I was bewitched.
UK RAILCARD: We booked on Trainline with a railcard and only paid £101 for a return journey for two adults from Edinburgh to Thurso via Inverness. If you do not have a railcard, get a railcard NOW for it can shave £££s off your train fare in the UK.
We stopped at some “requests stops” which are unique to Britain’s railways. These are remote stations literally in the middle of nowhere that you have to request for the train to stop. If you want to deboard at one of these stops, you must let the conductor know. If you want to board the train at one of these stops, either look for the request button on the platform or flag the train.
NOTE: Be aware of announcements on the train from Inverness. Sometimes the train is split in half. Two coaches will travel to Kyle of Lochalsh and the other two to Thurso and Wick.
From Thurso, local buses go to John O’Groats.
BY BUS / Stagecoach runs a daily service from Inverness to Thurso. From Thurso, local buses run to John O’Groats.
When to Visit John O’Groats
The best time to visit John O’Groats is in spring and summer to see the best of the region’s wildlife. If you want to see the Northern Lights, come in winter.
SPRING – SUMMER / This is the season of birds and blooms but also of tourist buses that offload hundreds of tourists to the little village almost every day in summer. The weather is perfect but expect high winds due to John O’Groats’ location at the edge of Britain. In spring and early summer, birds come to roost and breed in the cliffs. You can see puffins, guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, and numerous other species that come to nest on the soaring cliffs. You can spot seals sunning on rocks. On a lucky day, you may see whales and dolphins in these waters. The moors are carpeted with Scottish heather and there are tufts of thrifts blooming along the rocky coast. Summer here is gorgeous!
AUTUMN – WINTER / Temperatures plummet and high winds batter the cliffs of John O’Groats in this season but if you are lucky, you will be treated to gorgeous displays of Northern Lights from John O’Groats. Besides, the crowds are gone and you can score a deal on accommodation and basically enjoy a quiet break. Also, sunsets are the most vibrant in winter.
TIP: If you are wondering when to visit John O’Groats, timing your visit with a meteor shower is highly recommended. John O’Groats has very little light pollution and therefore it is an excellent location for stargazers similar to the star gazing site on the Isle of Gigha. We visited during the Perseid meteor shower and the view of the night sky from our campsite was unforgettable! Thankfully the sky was clear and I was treated to some of the best meteor showers of my life. There were shooting skies blazing across an inky sky dotted with a gazillion stars and manmade satellites! It was absolutely mesmerising!
What to Do In John O’Groats
There are lots of amazing things to do in John O’Groats. Begin your holiday by taking in the breathtaking coastal views. A walk on the cliffs towards the famed Duncansby Stacks is breathtaking. This was the third major sea stack formation we had seen after the Bow Fiddle Rock near Cullen and the Seaton Cliffs in Arbroath. Here the North Sea meets the Pentland Firth providing a stunning backdrop for walks and photography. Take photos at the iconic John O’Groats Signpost that marks the endpoint of the famous Land’s End to John O’Groats (LEJoG) route. Nearby are the painted houses of John O’Groats that inject a splash of rainbow colours into the landscape. You can also go on a boat trip to the nearby Orkney Islands, known for their archaeological sites and natural beauty. If you are pressed for time, opt for a ferry ride around the uninhabited Stroma Island. You can see seals and a variety of sea birds such as guillemots, shags, fulmars, and puffins. On a good day, you may also spot whales and dolphins. John O’Groats also has a distillery and a brewery where you can taste locally made liquors. There are lots of gift shops to buy souvenirs.
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Where to Eat in John O’Groats
No John O’Groats travel guide can be complete without a mention of food. Here are some of the best places to eat in John O’Groats.
The Cabin at John O’Groats | Good fish n’ chips but pricey. The place gets crowded when the tourist coaches arrive.
Stacks Coffee House and Bistro | Wonderful homemade sandwiches and tasty baked goodies. They also have a shop that sells locally-made arts and crafts.
8 Door Distillery | Besides their own liquers and whisky, they also serve coffee and cookies.
For a treat, we drove to Scabster near Thurso to enjoy a seafood dinner at Captain’s Galley Seafood Restaurant and it was some of the best seafood we have had. I ordered the grilled lobster and it has the most delicate taste of the sea. Reminded us of all the fabulous seafood we ate on the Isle of Gigha! Aninda had the turbot fillet and it was delicious.
Where to Stay in John O’Groats
Stay at Nordic-style self-catering guesthouses with floor-to-ceiling glass walls that offer sweeping views of the Pentland Firth. We stayed at one of these guesthouses with our friends and can’t recommend them enough! The views from the living room and kitchen were unparalleled! From the front deck, we could see the Pentland Forth and also stunning views of the sunset. The kitchen was very well equipped and the entire property was very spacious. They also had WiFi and the connection was reliable. We had booked a 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom house but there are a variety of configurations such as a 4-beds and studios available to book on Booking.com. The guesthouses are a 2 minute walk from the centre of John O’Groats, so you are close to all the shops and eateries, and also to the beaches and the cruise pier. Because of their stunning location, they tend to get sold out especially in the summer, so make sure to book ahead.
If you are camping, the John O’Groats Caravan and Camping site is right on the cliffs overlooking the windswept seas.
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