Tucked in the body of this modern metropolis is a warren of walking paths that twist and turn through glens and dells, climb crags and hills, and meander along streams and canals. Find out about the best car-free walks in Edinburgh in this post!
EDINBURGH / SCOTLAND
Edinburgh has an astonishing number of great walks right in the city! It is almost magical: Slip through a narrow lane and suddenly you are far away from the hustle and bustle of the city, in woodlands peppered with colourful wildflowers, on river banks redolent with birdsong, on hills looking at the skyline of this brilliant city, or on snowy meadows. To live in a city so intimate with nature is indeed a privilege!
“Walking, ideally, is a state in which the mind, the body, and the world are aligned, as though they were three characters finally in conversation together, three notes suddenly making a chord. Walking allows us to be in our bodies and in the world without being made busy by them. It leaves us free to think without being wholly lost in our thoughts.”
Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking
For nature lovers, these paths offer great opportunities for birdwatching, wildflower spotting, foraging, and fishing. We often spot artists hard at work sketching the scenery! Many of Edinburgh’s cycle paths, including the ones in Leith, Newhaven, and Trinity that we use regularly are old railway tracks that have been repurposed. The railway lines were victims of the infamous Beeching cuts in the 1960s but you can still see a few of the old railway stations. Most of these paths are multi-use paths to be used by pedestrians, cyclists, buggy users, and wheelchair users. Best of all, the walks on this list are all car-free walks meaning you do not need a car to access the trailhead or return from the finishing point.
Best Walks in Edinburgh
- Calton Hill
- The Water of Leith Walkway
- Colinton & Craiglockhart Dells
- Union Canal (Lochrin Reservoir to Water of Leith Visitor Centre)
- Shore Walk: Queensferry to Cramond
- Arthur’s Seat and Salisbury Crags
- Cramond River Walk
- Musselburgh and Fisherrow Circular
- Hermitage of Braid & Blackford Hill
- Corstorphine Hill
- Pentland Hills Regional Park
All the walks on this list of best walks in Edinburgh are car-free walks which means they are accessible using public transport.
Calton Hill
Stood right in the city centre, Calton Hill is crowned by the National Monument, an Athenian acropolis-like structure which, though incomplete, graces the Edinburgh skyline alongside the City Observatory and Nelson’s Monument. A short walk uphill from Regent Road on the South side or Royal Terrace on the North side will bring you to the top of the hill whose grassy slopes promise panoramic views of the city, including down the length of Princes St. and Edinburgh Castle. There is a good view of the Salisbury Crags, Arthur’s Seat, and the undulating slopes of Holyrood Park. The walk that curves up the slopes of Calton Hill is named after David Hume. It was created in 1775 and is one of Britain’s first public footpaths.
Difficulty: Easy
Itinerary: Circular route from Regent Road
Distance: 0.4 km / 0.3 miles (From the steps on Regent Road to the top of Calton Hill)
Time taken: 1 – 1.5 hours including time to explore the hill
Starting Point: Nearest bus stop is Waterloo Place (Lothian buses 19, 22, 26, 44, 45, 49 and East Coast buses X6, X7, 113, and 124). The Calton Hill steps are a short walk from Princes St.
Also read: Visiting Edinburgh? Check our list of free things to do in the city: 20+ Free Things to Do in Edinburgh.
The Water of Leith Walkway
One of the best walks in Edinburgh is the Water of Leith walkway that we regularly use on our walks. The 12-mile walkway starts at The Shore in Leith and winds along the Water of Leith to Balerno through the neighbourhoods of Stockbridge, Slateford, and Colinton. There are many points of interest along the way including Colinton Village and Dell, Saughton Winter Gardens, Murrayfield Stadium, the Scottish Gallery of Modern Art, Dean Village, and the Slateford Aqueduct. The woodlands, designated as an urban wildlife site, are home to 80 species of birds like herons, dippers, goosanders, starlings, and kingfishers. In spring, wildflowers bloom along the walkway and you can see new leaves budding on the branches and boughs. The route is suitable for cycling and, in parts, even horse riding. Best of all, you can complete as much or as little of the route as you walk. This is a truly car-free walk as buses are available from various points along the Water of Leith. Maps and fishing permits are available at The Water of Leith Visitor Centre.
Difficulty: Moderate Itinerary: Linear route from Leith to Balerno Distance: 12 miles Time taken: 4-6 hours Starting Point: The starting point on The Shore is served by Lothian buses 16, 35, and 36. Bus service is available along the route. Bus 44 serves Balerno.
Colinton & Craiglockhart Dells
A short detour from the Water of Leith walk brings you to these two beautiful dells near Slateford. Start at the Water of Leith Visitor Centre and follow the path till you reach a fork. There take the right to stay near the water and continue till you reach a stone grotto, built in the eighteenth century by the Craiglockhart Estate to add interest to the dell. Amble through the woodland that is filled with birdsong and wildflowers. In spring, bunches of daffodils add a splash of gold to the greenery! You will soon cross a weir, then continue along the road that leads into Colinton Tunnel. The entire tunnel has been painted – floor to ceiling, on both sides, from end to end with Robert Louis Stevenson’s poem “From a Railway Carriage” and accompanying illustrations- and is a highlight of this walk!
Difficulty: Easy Itinerary: Circular route from the Water of Leith Visitors Centre Distance: 5 km / 3 miles Time taken: 1.5 hours Starting Point: The Water of Leith Visitors Centre bus stop is served by Lothian buses 34, 36, and 44.
Union Canal (Lochrin Reservoir to Water of Leith Visitor Centre)
Surely one of the best walks in Edinburgh is the walk along the Union Canal. Get a coffee from the Waterside Cafe (a cafe in a boat!) near the Leamington Lift Bridge, then continue along the towpath past the pretty boats (with witty names like Fraugh-a-Ballagh and Mischief). Watch the rowing teams slicing through the calm waters. If you are lucky, you may chance upon a race! In spring, the banks are hazy with nodding daffodils and in summer. The canal passes a series of boathouses including the beautiful Edinburgh Canal Society boat house at Harrison Park which offers boat hire and trips on the canal. It also passes the quaint Polwarth Parish Church with its charming garden. The walk ends before the Slateford Aquaduct which carries the canal over the Water of Leith and Inglis Green Road. Built in 1822 by Hugh Baird in consultation with Thomas Telford, it is the second-largest aqueduct in Scotland at 180 metres long and 18 metres tall. Climb down the stairs to the Water of Leith visitor centre, then take the bus back to the city. What an amazing car-free walk!
TIP: You can continue to Ratho and have a sumptuous meal at the Bridge Inn. This walk is part of a long-distance walking path: The Forth & Clyde and Union Canal towpaths.
Difficulty: Easy Itinerary: Linear route from the Lochrin Basin to the Water of Leith visitor centre Distance: 2.5 miles Time taken: 45 min – 1 hour Starting Point: Bus stop on Bread St. (Lothian buses 10, 11, 36) and in Fountainbridge (Lothian buses 1, 34, 35). The Water of Leith Visitors Centre is served by Lothian buses 34, 36 and 44.
Shore Walk: Queensferry to Cramond
This walk along the shore from Queensferry to Cramond is one of the best walks in Edinburgh, and also one of the most beautiful. It is charming in every season: the snowdrops and daffodils of spring, the lush green of summer, the golden leaves of fall, and the snowy silence of winter. The walk threads through the woodland in the Dalmeny Estate and offers beautiful views of the Forth Bridges, Dalmeny House, and Barnbougle Castle. There are shell beaches along the way where you can enjoy a picnic on a sunny day. In spring, there are snowdrops and wildflowers along the way and you can watch the leaves turn if you visit in autumn. You can also spot sheep and chickens as this is a working farm! It is an easy walk and barring a short detour to Eagle Rock, it is good for kids too. If you start at Queensferry, you can take the Lothian bus 43 from Edinburgh. On the way back, you can take the bus from the Cramond Brig stop.
Difficulty: Easy Itinerary: Linear route from Hawes Inn in South Queensferry to Cramond Brigs bus stop Distance: 5.3 miles Time taken: 2 hours Starting Point: Lothian bus 43 serves South Queensferry. Alternatively, you can take the train to Dalmeny Station.
Also read: For a quick guide to South Queensferry, see Day Trip to South Queensferry from Edinburgh.
Arthur’s Seat and Salisbury Crags
On a short trip to Scotland and want to experience a proper hill walk? Look no further than Arthur’s Seat, an ancient volcano, that towers over the city of Edinburgh. The 4.75 km walk can be a bit of a scramble over the steeper, rockier parts– so don’t forget to wear sturdy shoes– but the views from the summit are mesmerising. The Radical Road is currently closed but you can take the main walkway and continue along the steep slope towards the top edge of Salisbury Crags. From there, continue along the path of steps zig-zagging up the steep slope of Arthur’s Seat. At the very top is a trig point. It is a steep climb but you can enjoy panoramic views of the city and along the coast to Bass Rock. No doubt, the Arthur’s Seat walk is one of the best walks in Edinburgh.
Difficulty: Moderate Itinerary: Circular route from the car park on Queen’s Drive Distance: 4.75 km / 3 miles Time taken: 2.5 – 3 hours Starting Point: The nearest bus stop to the Queen’s Drive car park is served by Lothian bus 35.
Cramond River Walk
The Cramond River Walkway winds along the River Almond in Cramond, a suburb in northwest Edinburgh. Near the beach, you can see boats anchored in the shallow waters but continue into the shaded woodland, and you will be transported into an oasis of solitude. Soon you will encounter a weir and the ruins of the Fairafar Mill. Continue onwards, up and down two flights of stairs, and then turn left towards the historic Cramond Brig (brig is the Scots word for bridge) that once carried the old Edinburgh to Stirling road across the river. The River Almond has a healthy population of brown trout and there are various birds including dippers, kingfishers, and grey herons living in the woodland. In spring and early summer, there are wild garlic plants growing all along the river bank and the air has a distinctive garlicky scent. Leeks and mushrooms are common too and sometimes local foraging enthusiasts lead foraging walks along the river.
TIP: Add a unique car-free walk in Edinburgh to your walking map by walking to Cramond Island. Cramond Island is connected to Cramond Beach via a walkway that is only accessible during low tide. You can also pair this walk with a ramble in the Cammo Estate.
Difficulty: Easy Itinerary: Linear route (Cramond Beach – Cramond Brigs) Distance: 2.4 km / 1.5 miles (8.75 km / 5.5 miles including Cramond Island) Time taken: 2-3 hours Starting Point: Lothian bus 41 serves Cramond. It is a short walk from the Cramond Glebe Road bus stop to the beach.
Musselburgh and Fisherrow Circular
One of the best walks in Edinburgh, the Musselburgh and Fisherrow Circular, is a true hidden gem! Start from the Fisherrow Harbour and walk towards the river mouth where you can watch wading birds feeding, or listen out for the calls of long-tailed and eider ducks during the spring. Up to 200 mute swans gather here in the mid-summer and early autumn to moult! On the beach, you can see the shells of the many mussels that give Musselburgh its name. Continue through town, past the Musselburgh Tolbooth with its handsome clock, towards the charming conservation village of Inveresk through Lewisvale Park, an Edwardian public park dating from 1911. From Inveresk, a short walk will bring you to the banks of river Esk. Here you will walk in the shades of willows, through woodland scented with wild garlic, garlic mustard, and few-flowered leek. Sprigs of wild roses and wildflowers add colour to the greenery. Look out for kingfishers, dippers, and herons. If you are lucky, you may spot salmons leaping up the ladder at the old weir. Otters have been seen here with increasing regularity, so you might spot one too if the woodland gods smile at you! Continue towards town, then cross the Roman Bridge to make your way back to the harbour.
TIP: If you love gardens, do not miss a trip to the idyllic National Trust for Scotland’s Inveresk Lodge Garden.
Difficulty: Easy Itinerary: Circular route from Fisherrow harbour via Musselburgh and Inveresk Distance: 8km / 5 miles Time taken: 2 – 2.5 hours Starting Point: The bus stop nearest Fisherrow harbour is Maitland Park Road. It is served by buses 26, 44, 113, and 124.
Hermitage of Braid & Blackford Hill
One of Edinburgh’s seven hills, Blackford Hill promises beautiful views of the city of Edinburgh. The path starts on Braid Road and threads gracefully through a glen– the woodlands are a green oasis in spring and summer– and past the Hermitage House, a stately house that was once the home of Charles Gordon of Cluny. Today, it is a visitor centre for the glen. Take the left fork that runs beneath the right side of the building and then climb up the steep slope. Don’t miss the terraced garden that blooms with foxgloves, wild roses, clematis, and other pretty flowers! Press onwards with the allotments below on your left and soon you can spot Edinburgh Castle with Arthur’s Seat and Salisbury Crags rising prominently to the right. Certainly one of the best walks in Edinburgh! Continue to the summit before descending back into the cool shades of the glen.
Difficulty: Easy – Moderate Itinerary: Circular route Distance: 4.25km / 2.75 miles Time taken: 1.5 hours Starting Point: Bus stop on Comiston Road (Lothian buses 11 and 15)
Corstorphine Hill
Another one of Edinburgh’s seven hills, the Corstorphine Hill is crisscrossed by walking trails and offers spectacular views of Edinburgh Castle and the Forth Bridges. In late spring, the paths are adorned with bluebells. The woods on Corstorphine Hill are a mix of oak, beech, and ash and are home to badgers, kestrels and owls. There are various access points; we took the path near the Clermiston Road North bus stop and descended near the Edinburgh Zoo but most people do a circular loop from the entrance on the A90. Above Clermiston Road is a grassy slope with views of the Forth bridges on a clear day. When we visited, the gorse was nearing its end but small pops of bright yellow flamed along the path. Take a detour near the zoo to reach the Rest and Be Thankful viewpoint which offers superb views over Edinburgh, with Calton Hill and the Castle prominent over the golf course.
Difficulty: Easy Itinerary: Circular route from the entrance near Corstorphine Hill Local Nature Reserve on Queensferry Road A90. You can also exit on Corstorphine Road. Distance: 4.5 km / 2.75 miles (circular) Time taken: 1 – 1.5 hours Starting Point: Lothian buses 21 and 43 serve the Hillpark Steps bus stop on the A90. The Balgreen Road stop on Corstorphine Road is served by 12, 18, 26, and 31.
Pentland Hills Regional Park
Saving the best for the last! No list of best walks in Edinburgh is complete without a mention of the Pentland Hills Regional Park. Crisscrossed with various walking and cycling routes, the paths take you over hills, through cleughs, around reservoirs, and over meadows blanketed with heather. There is something for every level of fitness. Some of the walks are accessible and can be accessed with wheelchairs and pushchairs. While not all of the Pentlands is accessible by public transport, many walks such as the Threipmuir Reservoir Walk can be car-free walks and easily accessed by buses. The following entry points to the Pentland Hills can be accessed by bus from Edinburgh.
Bus Routes to the Pentland Hills from Edinburgh (February 2024):
– For routes that start at Torphin, Lothian bus 16.
– For routes that start at Bonaly, Lothian bus 10.
– For routes that start at Hillend, Lothian bus 4 or 15.
– For routes that start at Hawlaw or Threipmuir Reservoir, Lothian bus 44. Use this bus for routes that start at Currie.
– For routes that start at Flotterstone Inn or Carlops, Houston Coaches bus 101 or 101A.
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