The Dunstanburgh Castle Walk is an easy walk from Craster to Dunstanburgh Castle along the picturesque Northumberland Coast.
Craster | Northumberland Coast
The weather couldn’t have been better: Gorgeous spring sunshine, clear skies, and the blue waters of the North Sea breaking into waves! It was around 7:45 am in the morning when the bus dropped us off at Craster on the Northumberland Coast and we headed towards the ruins of the Dunstanburgh Castle. Not a soul in sight. Just the symphony the waves and bird call.
DUNSTANBURGH ETYMOLOGY: In Old English, dūn-stān=hill-rock, so this location might be known as the “fort and wood by the hill-rock.” According to Wikipedia, Dunstanburgh may mean ‘the fort’ (burgh) ‘of the town’ (dun) ‘by the rock’ (stan).
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A Short History of Dunstanburgh Castle
Constructed in 1313 by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, Dunstanburgh Castle symbolized medieval power in Northumberland, England. Located strategically between Craster and Embleton, Dunstanburgh served as a stronghold and residence. The castle has a bloody and tumultuous history which includes Thomas’s failed uprising against King Edward II in 1322, leading to his execution and the castle’s capture by the crown. Throughout the Wars of the Roses and the English Civil War, Dunstanburgh played a role in regional conflicts. However, by the 17th century, it fell into disrepair and abandonment. Today, managed by English Heritage, the castle stands as a romantic ruin, attracting visitors with its historical significance and scenic coastal views. Its sturdy walls and remnants, including the Great Gatehouse, offer insights into medieval architecture and military strategy, preserving the legacy of England’s feudal past amidst Northumberland’s rugged landscapes.
Dunstanburgh Castle Walk
The Dunstanburgh castle walk starts near the Craster harbour. We follow Dunstanburgh Road to a farm gate with a National Trust sign. A note here mentions that there are no toilets in the castle; the nearest ones are at the car-park.
We walk through the gate and continue along the path that meanders through bright-yellow bushes of gorse, through short green grass that carpets the cliffs. There are sheep. Lots of them, basking in the sunlit wash. There are birds. Lots of them. Oystercatchers scuttled around on their bright orange legs. Seagulls being seagulls. A lone curlew. Other birds. Pretty birds.
Also read: We walked south from Craster to Alnmouth. You can read about our walk here: Craster to Alnmouth Walk: Northumberland Coast Path.
We stop countless times to take pictures. It is the perfect day. The sky is cloudless. Brilliantly blue. Bright yellow gorse perfumes the air with its coconut scent. There is a breeze that whips the water into foamy-headed waves. The castle, or what remains of it, gets larger and larger as we approach it. We walk through more kissing gates, over parcels of land bound with fences and barbs, past families of sheep.
Dunstanburgh Castle stands on a remote headland on the Northumberland coast. As we approach the castle, the view is unforgettable. Majestic ruins, particularly the tall twin-towered keep, dominate the horizon. The landscape is green, dotted with sheep and decorated with yellow gorse. The North Sea lashes relentlessly on the rocky cliffs. Construction was started by the Earl Thomas of Lancaster in 1313. He was executed in 1322 after which the castle passed eventually to John of Gaunt, who strengthened it against the Scots. Dunstanburgh Castle was the focus of fighting during the War of the Roses during which it was twice besieged and captured by Yorkist forces after which it fell into decay.
“Closed for “taking inventory,” we are told by three women who work there. What a workplace! We wander around, down the path that goes towards Seahouses, watch the masonry turrets shoot up into the sky. All ruins and ruins now. The sheep and I watch each other for a while. Unlike us, they don’t have a bus to catch, so we say goodbye and walk back to Craster. Closer to Craster, we can see smoke billowing from the chimneys of the Robson smokehouse. Scent of seasalt in the air, scent of fire, oak.
Also read: Take a day trip to Newcastle. Check out Top Things to do in Newcastle-upon-Tyne for some cool things to do in Newcastle.
Difficulty: Easy
Itinerary: Linear walk from Craster to Dunstanburgh Castle and back.
Distance: 3.3 miles / 5.3 km
Time taken: 1 hour
Public transport: Arriva bus x18 and Travelsure bus 418 connects Craster to Berwick-upon-Tweed, Alnwick, and Newcastle.
Dunstanburgh Castle Walk: Route and Elevation
Where to Stay
If you are planning to stay the night, Craster has some cute cottages to stay such as Rowan Cottage and Bramble Cottage. Craster Cottages is also highly recommended.
If you are walking all the way to Seahouses, we recommend staying at Chandler’s BnB, Holly Trees, or Ugiebrae House Bed & Breakfast.
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