The Isle of Rùm is home to one of Scotland’s National Nature Reserves. Dramatic scenery, abundant wildlife, and limited connectivity make Rùm one of the best places for travellers seeking to take a break from the maddening rush of modern life. Our Isle of Rùm travel guide will help you plan a memorable trip to this beautiful Scottish island.
Isle of Rùm | Scotland
Located in the Inner Hebrides, the Small Isles are a group of four islands: Rùm, Canna, Eigg, and Muck. Often overlooked by travellers in favour of Skye, these islands are some of Scotland’s least visited places and therefore ideal if you want to avoid the crowds without compromising on scenic beauty. The Isle of Rùm, or Rùm, is the largest of the Small Isles and features the Rùm Cuilin, soaring mist-crowned mountains, similar to the Cuilin mountains on Skye. The glens of Rùm are enchanting and often you can spot red deer in these remote glens as Europe’s largest study on red deer is located here. Though not well-known to tourists, Rùm is a darling of hikers, wildlife watchers, and researchers who come here regularly but particularly to observe the deer rut in autumn.
If I had to describe Rùm in one word, it would be brooding. Despite being not too far from the mainland, it has an air of wildness and remoteness. We stayed on the island for two days and went on walks in the mountains and on both days, we hardly saw anybody. Even in the main settlement of Kinloch, there were few people out and about. We walked in the shadow of Rùm’s tallest peaks: Askival, Hallival, and Ainshval, and explored its wind-swept glens. The sun was playing hide and seek on both days and moored boats were bobbing on the calm waters of Rùm’s main bay. But on our last day, rain clouds sheathed Rùm and the mountains took on an otherworldly appearance. The dark green slopes were soon covered in shifting clouds, and the mountain tops were obscured. Without the brightness of the sun, the island appeared wilder, and more remote. We sat eating soup at the Community Shop contemplating the sublime beauty of this country and watching the birds as they convened in their daily stand-ups.
Who owns Rùm? After passing through many hands, Rùm was bought by John Bullough in 1888. His son, George Bullough built Kinloch Castle and Rùm remained part of the Bullough family’s estate till 1957 when the island was purchased by the Nature Conservancy, a government agency with responsibility for natural heritage, for £23,000, and was designated a National Nature Reserve in line with Lady Bullough’s wishes. In 2009, residents voted in a historic plan to take ownership of Rùm. While Rùm’s National Nature Reserve is still under NatureScot’s ownership, all inhabited areas of Rùm have been handed over to the Rùm Community Trust.
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Where is the Isle of Rùm
The Isle of Rùm is located in the Inner Hebrides. It is part of the Small Isles, a group of four islands: Rùm, Canna, Eigg, and Muck, and is reachable by ferry from Mallaig. Kinloch, the only village on Rùm, has a permanent population of around 40 (2024).
How Many Days Do I Need on Rùm
We stayed on Rùm for two and a half days and felt it was enough time to explore parts of the island and relax. You will need more days if you plan on going on one of the more difficult walks. We clubbed our trip to Rùm with a trip to the Isle of Canna, spent two days on both islands and had a beautiful time.
Can I Do A Day Trip to Rùm? In the summer, you can do a day trip to Rùm from Mallaig. The ferry arrives late morning from Mallaig and returns from Canna to Mallaig via Rùm later in the day. However, this is only possible on certain days of the week, so check the ferry timetable carefully.
If you are only on Rùm for a few hours, I’d recommend the following activities:
– Start with a visit to the Rùm Visitor Centre to get an overview of the island.
– Stop by Kinloch Castle and take a photograph or two.
– Go on one of the shorter walks, either Coire Dubh or the Nature Trail. The latter is gentler and recommended if you are travelling with younger kids. Club it with a short wild swimming session, if you like. If you are bringing your mountain bike, consider biking to Kilmory Beach or Harris.
– Stop by the Isle of Rùm General Store for some refreshments.
– Visit the Otter Hide for potential wildlife sightings, and return to the ferry port.
Why Visit Rùm
There are lots of reasons to visit the Isle of Rùm and these are our favourite ones.
Natural beauty | Rùm is enchanting. If you love wild-swept wilderness, you will love Rùm. The unspoilt landscape features towering mountains, remote glens, open moorlands, and secret lochs. Be ready to be mesmerised at every turn!
Wildlife | Europe’s largest study on red deer is conducted on Rùm and every year researchers arrive to partake in the study. Besides, Rùm is also on the Hebridean Whale Trail and is home to the unique Rùm ponies.
Offbeat and off-grid | Outside local hiking and wildlife enthusiasts, not many travel to Rùm and therefore you are far, far away from any crowds. The island is as isolated and remote as you will find so close to the mainland. Rùm is also not connected to the National Power Grid and all electricity on Rùm is hydro-powered. Internet is patchy and therefore you can enjoy a distraction-free mindful trip.
Car-free | You cannot bring your car to Rùm unless you have a residence permit. Isn’t that amazing? A trip free of pollutants and smoke-exhaling cars is such a rarity in this time and age, isn’t it?
Accessibility | Rùm isn’t too difficult to access despite its relative isolation.
How to Reach the Isle of Rùm
Despite its remoteness, Rùm is easily reachable by ferries. Caledonian MacBryne (CalMac) ferries connect Rùm to the mainland at Mallaig, a village north of Fort William. The journey takes around 1 hr 25 min. Summer and winter timetables differ and ferries are not available every day of the week, so plan meticulously if you intend to visit Rùm or any of the Small Isles. The train station and the ferry port are a 2-minute walk apart.
NOTE: If you are travelling by car, you will have to park your car at the West Bay Car Park in Mallaig because visitors are not allowed to bring their vehicles to Rùm or any of the Small Isles.
How to Reach Mallaig by Public Transport
Mallaig is well-connected to major cities in Scotland.
BY TRAIN – SCOTRAIL | Mallaig has a train station and daily ScotRail services to Glasgow Queen Street via Fort William. The Glasgow to Mallaig route is called the West Highland Route and it is one of the most scenic railway routes in the world. Not only can you savour the sublime beauty of the Scottish Highlands– think mist-crowned mountains, heather-speckled moorlands, and sparkling lochs– from the window, but also travel over the Glenfinnan Viaduct which is featured in the Harry Potter movies.
BY TRAIN – JACOBITE STEAM TRAIN FROM FORT WILLIAM | From Fort William, you can either avail a ScotRail service or travel to the iconic Jacobite Steam Train, affectionately called the Harry Potter train, to Mallaig. Tickets sell out at lightning speed, so if you are planning to book seats on the Jacobite train, plan ahead and book as early as possible!
BY BUS | If you are travelling by bus, CityLink services connect Edinburgh and Glasgow to Fort William, from where you have to take a local bus to Mallaig.
TIP: If like us, you are arriving by the late train from Glasgow, Mission Bunkhouse is a fantastic place to stay the night before catching the ferry the next morning. They are the only hostel that would let us check in so late. We booked two single rooms for £30 each and they were happy to let us check ourselves in at midnight when the train arrived. The hostel is right across the street from Mallaig station, and we had no difficulty checking in.
The next morning, we grabbed some delicious breakfast at the Bakehouse– their baklava Danish is stupendous– , shopped for supplies at the Co-op, and then made our way to the ferry port.
Where to Stay on Rùm
Accommodation on Rùm is limited to a handful of places.
🏕️ Harbour BBQ Hut | Located near the old pier of Rùm is an Airbnb called the Harbour BBQ Hut. The view from the BBQ hut is enchanting; you can see Loch Scresort and the moored boats, and also countless birds as they flit from tree to tree. Harbour BBQ Hut seats about 8-10 people but sleeps four and is an excellent choice whether you are travelling alone or in a group with campers. The foldout benches turn into beds for the night but they are not the most comfortable. The USP of the hut is a BBQ at the centre where you can whip up a barbeque feast! Skip the lump charcoal bags that they sell at the shop and bring your instant BBQ fire kit to save time. The hut can get chilly even in summer, and it helps to have a fire going. Blankets are provided but we recommend bringing sleeping bags for a more comfortable sleep. Toilets are a minute’s walk away and showers are shared with guests of the Rùm bunkhouse pod. It costs £5 per person to get the access code for the showers from the bunkhouse. Electric is unavailable in the hut though solar lights are provided; to charge your gadgets, you will need to visit the Community Hall. The owner, Jinty, lives nearby and is available during the day should you need any help.
Rùm Bunkhouse and Pods | The Rùm Bunkhouse and Pods is run by the Isle of Rùm Community Trust. The bunkhouse is well-equipped with hot showers and kitchens and offers lovely views of the bay. They also have a drying room and a laundry room on-site. The two pods have electricity so you can charge your gadgets. Note that if you are staying in the pods, you have no access to the bunkhouse and have to use the community toilets. The trust also runs a campsite on Rùm.
Ivy Cottage BnB & Bramble Bothy | Ivy Cottage is Rùm’s only BnB and occupies a gorgeous location by the loch. We walked past it many times and each time wondered how amazing it would be to sit in the conservatoire and gaze out at the mountains floating between earth and sky, the moored boats, the sky a soft dusty pink at sunset. They also have a cute little cottage called Bramble Bothy that you can rent.
Where to Eat on Rùm
There is a single shop on Rùm that doubles up as a coffee shop! The Isle of Rùm General Store stocks daily supplies and also serves soup, rolls, and fries every day in the summer. They also do tea, coffee, and hot chocolate.
Things to do on Rùm
Most of the things to do on Rùm are done outdoors. If you love going on walks, climbing mountains, birdwatching, or wild swimming, you must certainly visit Rùm.
Stop by Rùm Visitor Centre
The Rùm Visitor Centre is open all day and has loads of information about the geology, history, and wildlife of Rùm. There are information displays with photographs and texts and you can get an overview of this incredible island at the Rùm Visitor Centre. Also on display are stag antlers, skulls, and a variety of rocks, stones, and other geological artefacts collected from different parts of Rùm.
See Kinloch Castle
Kinloch Castle is the main landmark on the Isle of Rùm. It was built as a private residence for Sir Edward Bullough, a textile tycoon from Lancashire whose father bought Rùm as his summer residence and shooting estate. Construction began in 1897 with sandstone hewn from the Isle of Arran and was completed in 1900. George Bullough shipped in tonnes of soil from Ayrshire and had sprawling gardens and greenhouses built. Ponds were dug and turtles and alligators were imported to Rùm. Kinloch Castle was built as a luxurious retreat and George Bullough had the island’s name changed to “Rhum”. Access to Rùm was restricted and Bullough’s parties, frequented by aristocrats and celebrities, were described as hedonistic.
As their fortunes declined, particularly after the Wall Street crash in 1929, the Bullough family’s stays on Rùm shortened. In 1957, they sold the island and Kinloch Castle was part of the sale. It is now owned by NatureScot, who operated part of the castle as a hostel until 2015 when it closed due to high running costs. The building is badly in need of a renovation and entry is prohibited until further notice. The museum is closed and tours are on hold as NatureScot and Rùm Community Trust work to decide the castle’s fate.
Go on Walks on the Isle of Rùm
Of course, the best thing to do on Rùm is to go on walks! Most of the walks on Rùm are difficult and require good navigational skills; trails are not always marked. However, there are three short well-marked trails on Rùm that you can enjoy if you are visiting for a short amount of time or are not experienced walkers.
Nature Trail
One of three short walks featured on pamphlets around Rùm is the Nature Trail that starts near the Reserve Office. We said hello to the ponies that live on a field right next to the start of the trail. The trail, though marked in most parts (we went the wrong way once), isn’t maintained, so in summer the grass was high and there were thorny stems that we had to be careful about. The walk offers spectacular views of Kinloch Glen, then meanders downhill, and loops around three abandoned crofts. If you are on Rùm for only half a day and do not want to climb the steep Coire Dubh, the Nature Trail is a great option.
Coire Dubh
A slightly difficult uphill walk that provides a brilliant overview of the general scenery of Rùm besides offering incredible views of Rùm, its bay, and the mountains of Skye, is the Coire Dubh Walk. The trail starts next to Kinloch Castle. The signpost is marked by a red thistle. The route follows the Allt Slugan a’ Choilich burn and meanders through woodland before climbing uphill through moorlands dotted with heather and Scots pine. There’s a lovely waterfall that you can see on this walk. We didn’t see any wildlife apart from a bevy of birds and butterflies but we hear that you can spot red deer and white-tailed eagles on this walk.
The walk took us about 2 hours and despite the sharp incline towards the top, it was incredible. The views were absolutely stunning! We loved walking along the gurgling stream, stopping every now and then to spot butterflies and wildflowers, and admiring the scenery. The towering peaks of the Rùm Cuilin created an amphitheatre and when the clouds came in, the landscape took on a brooding mood. We highly recommend taking your walking sticks on the Coire Dubh walk.
Otter Hide
The otters were hiding when we visited but otter or not, the walk to the Otter Hide is lovely on its own. The trail spans the coast from the Otter Hide to the Community Shop, and we did the walk on our first afternoon after filling up on some delicious Indonesian-style Coconut and Chickpea soup at the shop. The trail skirts the loch and you can hear the calls of oystercatchers and see them all along the shore. We also saw flocks of pink-footed geese and various other birds such as robins and sparrows. We crossed the lovely Ivy Cottage and continued along the path which turned inland, went over a red bridge, and continued towards the slipway. We crossed Rùm bunkhouse and our Airbnb and climbed through woodlands. Near the slipway, there’s a sign that says “Otter Hide”. The trail goes uphill for a bit and offers lovely views of Loch Scresort, before entering a forest where there are ruins of houses. We spotted mushrooms and a variety of ferns, also butterflies and slugs, and continued to the Otter Hide. We stared awhile from the windows of the Otter Hide– no otters in sight, no whales or any wildlife– before heading back to Kinloch. Inside Otter Hide, there’s a board to write what you sighted: for July 10, the day we visited, somebody had written “a spider :(” but we noted that somebody had spotted a pod of whales on July 1.
Climb the Rùm Cuilins
One of the best things to do on Rùm is to climb the Rùm Cuilins. From the ferry, you can see the brooding tops of the mist-crowned Rùm Cuilins and they lend Rùm a brooding, somewhat intimidating aura. They are amongst the finest mountains in Scotland, and the perfect option if you are seeking an offbeat adventure. The Rùm Cuilin traverse covers all five major summits in Rùm, namely Askival, Hallival, Ainshval, Trollaval, and Barkeval. Note that this is a difficult walk meant for experienced climbers only.
Stay at a Remote Mountain Bothy on Rùm
Two of Rùm’s mountain’s bothies, Dibidil and Guirdil, are popular with walkers who come to explore Rùm. Both are maintained by the Mountain Bothies Association. Dibidil Bothy is particularly popular with hikers who complete the Rùm Cuilin traverse but you can also access it via an out-and-back 8.5 km trail along the coast from Kinloch. On the other side of Rùm overlooking Canna is Guirdil Bothy. It is set amongst ruins of the pre-clearance settlement of Guirdil in the shadow of Bloodstone Hill where bloodstone, a semi-precious gem with a jade-green heart marred by streaks of red, is found scattered across the slopes. Note that walks to both bothies are tough and the weather on Rùm changes fast and paths can often be treacherous.
Walk or Cycle to Kilmory and/or Harris
Before the Highland Clearances, one of the most tragic chapters in Scottish history, Rùm had two other settlements: Kilmory and Harris. A rough track through the barren heart of Rùm connects both locations to Kinloch; Kilmory is 8 km away and Harris is 13 km and both can be reached on foot or by cycle through the National Nature Reserve. We walked part of the way through Kinloch Glen, till the point where the road forks in two, one towards Kilmory and the other towards Harris. A few metres from the fork there is a bridge over Kilmory River. From here, you can see Kilmory Glen all the way to the Sound of Canna; it is mesmerizing. The scenery is breathtaking: sloping hills on both sides of the glens through which flows a meandering stream. On the way, you can see an oxbow lake, a waterfall, and heather-covered moorlands. Clumps of Scots pine can be seen in the distance. There’s no one around and the vastness is somewhat intimidating. We had spells of sunshine and clouds, and it was the most beautiful walk. Deers are apparently commonly seen on this route but sadly, we didn’t see any. At Kilmory, there’s a sandy beach that was once a favourite of Queen Elizabeth, thanks to its isolation and beauty. At Harris, once the largest settlement on Rùm, you can see the Bullough family mausoleum and ruins of blackhouses.
Say Hello to Otters, Ponies, & Other Wildlife
The Isle of Rùm is a treasure trove of wild animals and if you are not as unlucky in the wildlife spotting department as we are, you can spot anything from stags and ponies to otters and whales. Rùm also has one of the largest colonies of Manx Shearwater in the world.
Even the lady who runs the Rùm community shop was surprised when we told her we had seen no deer at all despite walking along Kilmory Glen and climbing to Coire Dubh. She said that deer on Rùm, while loved, could be a menace as they regularly come down to Kinloch village and destroy people’s gardens.
Go Wild Swimming on Rùm
I have never wished that I could swim more than I did on Rùm! Rùm is full of incredible wild swimming spots: There were so many little pools and slow-flowing spots in Rùm’s many burns and they all looked so enticing. You can also swim in the loch! To know about the best wild swimming spots on Rùm, contact Ivy Cottage.
The Isle of Rùm is one of the most beautiful Scottish islands we have visited. Let us know if you want to visit Rùm and we can help you plan your trip!
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