Shyambazar Guide | Kolkata Neighbourhood Guides

Till a few years back, Shyambazarā€™s five-point crossing was notorious for its traffic snarls. Hundreds of vehicles stood in endless files for hours. Occasionally they would crawl forward a few inches before stopping again. On a weekday, it would take hours to cross the dreaded ā€œShyambazar signal.ā€ Drivers and conductors would hop off to smoke a biri or start an adda session while passengers grew agitated in the muggy heat. I guess it made for a fascinating night-time drone shoot: five unequal arms of headlights and taillights radiating from the statue of Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose.

Shyambazar is one of the oldest areas of Kolkata. In the 18th century, when the salt trade was flourishing in Bengal, Shyambazar and neighbouring Shobhabazar were the bastions of Calcuttaā€™s elite. These neighbourhoods were known for their extravagant mansions and townhouses built in the characteristic Bengali-European style. Under the patronization of Calcuttaā€™s baboos, Shyambazar flourished as the theatre district. In 1835, Nabin Chandra Basu had the first Bengali production, Bidyasundar, staged in his Shyambazar mansion. It is said that he had to sell another of his mansions to fund the lavish night! The house of Nagendranath Basu, the compiler of the Bangla Bishwakosh, the first encyclopedia in Bengali and the Hindi Vishvakosh, the first encyclopedia in Hindi is also in Shyambazar. Shyambazar was the heart of the theatre district. Single-screen halls like Darpana, Radha, Rupbani, Minar, Mitra, and Talkie Show House did brisk business along Bidhan Sarani.

Today, the burgeoning Bengali middle-class and migrant workers constitute the majority of Shyambazarā€™s population. Mixed-use shops and hawker stalls line the sidewalks around the chaotic five-point crossing. It is interesting to note that unlike in other parts of the city, most of the businesses here are still owned by Bengali families.

CDs at a shop in Shyambazar
Game of cards

Though urban Bengalis patronized the arts, the West Bengal Governmentā€” lead by renowned Bengalisā€” was never much successful in maintaining the cityā€™s architectural heritage. Relentless urbanization has stripped Shyambazar of its grandeur to make space for the population. The apathy of the Bengal government when it comes to conservation of heritage properties coupled with its failure to adequately rehabilitate refugees post partition, Kolkataā€™s migrant problem, and property sharks eager to transform old houses into the ugliest of apartments overnight is rapidly turning Shyambazar into yet another spot on the map of Indian cities with uninspiring architecture. Today, Shyambazarā€™s grand mansions stand mostly forgotten. Some, like the Majumdarā€™s townhouse on Radha Kanto Jeu Street, have been restored but most are in immediate need of repair.

A few years back, Amit Chaudhari had petitioned the West Bengal government demanding conservation of the heritage houses in the city of Kolkata. He wrote, ā€œKolkataā€™s old buildings reflect diverse European architectural styles that in time became imbued with Bengali and Marwari (or classical Rajasthani) influences, creating a unique blend of Indo-European design, unique to the city.ā€ A walk through the lanes and by-lanes of Shyambazar reveal some of the finest examples of Bengalā€™s golden era of architecture. The houses are charming with airy verandahs, iron latticework, louvred windows, and tall French doors. Take, for example, the Kamala Baati, a massive red and yellow mansion, or Golbari with its distinctive curved balcony from where you can see the Shyambazar five-point crossing, or Ghoribari with its defunct neo-Gothic clock tower.

A shopkeeper burns incense in his stall

Shyambazar Five-Point Crossing: History

According to Holwell, there used to be a large market named Charles Bazaar here, which was later renamed in honour of Shyam Rai by the Basak family, one of the richest trading families in 18th century Calcutta. The area surrounding the market came to be known by the same name.

Their win in the battle of Plassey fueled colonial aspirations and in 1766, the British built 6 roads to connect Dihi Kolkata to the suburbs. One of these was the Shyambazar Road. Then in 1799, the Maratha Ditch was filled up to build the Circular Road (Acharya Prafulla Chandra Road) that ran from Shyambazar to the Maidan. Following this in the 19th century, the Lottery Commission declared plans to build an arterial North-South road. Thus, was built another arm of the Shyambazar five-point: Cornwallis Road (Bidhan Sarani), along which stand many of old Calcuttaā€™s forgotten gems. In 1882, horse-drawn trams were introduced in Shyambazar and in 1889, electrification of tram routes was started. In 1911, Central Avenue was extended to Shyambazar and the Shyambazar end was renamed Bhupen Bose Avenue. To the west is R.G. Kar Road which was built to facilitate access to the R.G. Kar Hospital in Belgacchia and later extended. Shyambazar was already the most important node in the cityā€™s transportation map when the Shyambazar Metro Station was opened in 1994 to ease congestion and improve connectivity between North and South Kolkata.

Also Read: Read our story of enjoying a meal at one of Kolkata’s oldest eateries, Siddheswari Ashram.

An old house in the lanes of Shyambazar. Check out the louvred windows.

Things to Do in Shyambazar

Greengrocers weighing produce on analogue scales, shops selling glittering jewellery, bunches of fragrant jasmines, hawkers calling out in sing-song voices, stenographers firing away at typewriters on rickety tables set up on the pavement, the aroma of spices and food cooking in roadside eateries, old typography adorning signs with peeling paint, porters carrying loads on carts, the general chaos of people and buses arriving and leaving every second…at Shyambazar, one can experience the drama of human lives relentlessly, without a break.

Experience the Architecture

See 19th & 20th century Calcuttaā€™s grandeur in the by-lanes of Shyambazar. See the Clock Tower at Lalitkumar Mitraā€™s house, the Mullick’s Kamala Palace, and the houses of Nagendranath Bose, Bhupendranath Bose, and the Mitra family. Radha Kanto Jeu Street also has a number of old townhouses. The best time to explore the backstreets of Shyambazar is early in the morning. A list of heritage buildings can be found here.

A door with decorations on Radha Kanta Jeu Street

Ride a Tram

Ride a tram from the Shyambazar Tram Terminus to Esplanade. On the way, you can see Shyambazar’s old theatres, Kolkata’s famous College Street aka Boipara, Bethune College, and elegant houses and mansions dating back to the 1800s and the early 1900s. 

Watch a Show at Kolkataā€™s Oldest Theatres

Bidhan Sarani is lined with single-screen cinemas like Mitra Cinema and Darpana.

A holy man waits for a tram
Darpana’s rusty signboard

Where to Eat in Shyambazar

Shyambazar has some of the oldest eateries in the city. We’ll admit you won’t find global cuisine here as you would in South Kolkata or posh restaurants with air-conditioning. Most of the eateries here have existed for the better part of the century and serve local dishes. 

Dal Puri at Sen Mahasay

Start your day with some crispy puris stuffed with a spicy, aromatic paste of lentils. At Sen Mahasay, they serve it with chholaā€™r dal. Finish off with a soft, melt-in-the-mouth sondesh.

Mutton Kosha at Rupa

Drop in for lunch at this bhaatā€™er hotel for a plate of fluffy white rice with Bengali style slow-cooked mutton gravy.

A neighbourhood mishti’r dokan

Mutton Pantheras at Barua & Dey

One of two places in the city to serve this Anglo-Indian classic is Barua & Dey. A pantheras is a flour crepe filled with seasoned mince, rolled in breadcrumbs, and fried.

Kosha Mangsho at Golbari

The mutton gravy here is an institution. It is slow cooked in a base of onion and garlic with spices for a long time. The dish is known for its characteristic, almost chocolatey, bitterness.

Tea at National Economic or Sital Ashram

Lemon tea, buttered toast, and a poached egg make for the perfect snack.

Also read: Kolkata is a city of gourmands, for gourmands. Read Kolkata for Foodies: 15+ Things to Do in the City for a list of all the great things to do here.

Inside National Economic

Streetfood at Tripti Snacks Bar

Plop yourself down on a bench on the pavement and take your pick from chowmein, rolls, soups, and momos.

Lassi on Bhupen Bose Avenue

The pavement smells citrusy from the line of stalls dolling up glasses of frothy lassi and fruit juices. Pick one with mango pulp for a taste of the tropical.

Street Food
A shop selling chosma, spectacles, and the dentist’s stand beside each other

What to Buy in Shyambazar

What Gariahat is to South Kolkata, the Shyambazar-Hatibagan area is to North Kolkata. The area was Kolkataā€™s primary business hub in the 18th and 19th centuries and continues to be one of the cityā€™s busiest markets. 

The Shyambazar Market is located in the corner of Acharya Prafulla Chandra Street and R.G. Kar Road. If you don’t mind muddy lanes and the gut-wobbling odour of raw meat, check out the wet market at the back. Here you can find fishmongers fleshing the day’s catch, chickens being slaughtered, skinned carcasses of goats hung from hooks, and colourful heaps of fresh produce.

Tantujaā€” West Bengal State Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society Ltd. is one of the best places to buy Bengalā€™s traditional weaves. Take your pick from Jamdani, Baluchari, Tangayil, Dhakai, Dhanekhali, and local cotton weaves.

Ghosh Cousins is one of Kolkataā€™s oldest eye-ware shops. Drop in for a consultation.

Glassware stalls on the sidewalk outside the tram depot have on display cheap, locally made glassware and crockery.

Also read: Never been to Kolkata on Durga Puja? Well you are missing out on something memorable! But before you go pandal hopping, read Durga Puja Pandal Hopping Best Advice.

Bales waiting to be carried to the wholesale market

Where to Stay in Shyambazar

Calcutta Bungalow, a restored townhouse dating back to the 1920s, is the cityā€™s newest address. The project is a brainchild of Iftekar Ahsan, the founder of Calcutta Walks. The six bedrooms in the classical-style property have been decorated by a local scenographer, Swarup Dutta.

Address: 5, Radha Kanto Jeu St, Fariapukur, Shyam Bazar, Kolkata, West Bengal 700004

Calcutta Bungalow

Shyambazar might not be the epitome of Indiaā€™s glitzy, skyscraper-laden dreams but in its narrow, winding lanes, one can find the true taste of cosmopolitan Calcutta. Someday, we hope, some of these lanes will be declared heritage precincts and the skeletal remains of the elegant houses will be restored to their former glory. Until then, pop a roshogolla into your mouth and brave the chaos of Shyambazarā€™s five-point crossing, then escape into the sleepy embrace of its by-lanes.

Fragrant jasmine at a stall at Shyambazar Five-Point
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Comments

49 responses to “Shyambazar Guide | Kolkata Neighbourhood Guides”

  1. Paul Healy Avatar

    This is a really interesting article and so well written. It’s interesting how you comment that the government has done little to conserve the heritage properties in the area. It’s a shame they’ve been left to deteriorate but it also leaves the buildings to tell a history of teh place – for good or bad. Lots of great things to do as well, thanks for an interesting read.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar

      Thanks, Paul! All of North Calcutta is peppered with these crumbling mansions. Coupled with the state government’s apathy, there is the apathy of owners who intend to sell off these mansions– they need a lot of money for maintenance– to realtors who ultimately raze them.

  2. Sinjana Avatar

    Loved this article about my native city. North Kolkata is so charming and authentic. Beautifully captured

  3. meetmeatthepyramidstage Avatar

    really well written article, and very interesting to read. Great photos to accompany your words!

  4. Sherrie Fabrizi Allbritten Avatar

    Your description of this neighborhood is so detailed and you photography is so interesting it makes the reader feel like we are there.

  5. MaŔa Avatar

    Love the article itself but I’m Impressed by the photos! I assure you this post looks like a National Geographic spread. Sooo beautiful and real!! šŸ™‚

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar

      That’s so kind of you, Masa! Thank you so much.

  6. Yukti Avatar

    I loved your real life photos of Shyam Bazaar. As you have described the life of Shyambazar so beautifully that it looks like we are watching some movie or interesting story. Loved that picture of Holy man waiting for tram.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar

      Thanks, Yukti! We were ambling outside the tram terminus wondering whether or not to buy a plate of papri chaat when we spotted this man waiting for the tram which arrived soon after.

  7. Inge Avatar

    This is a very interesting article! I’ve never been to India before, but your narrative and pictures make me feel like I’m there right now! This area seems like a must-go-to place to submerge into the real culture. I rather visit these authentic places instead of ‘skyscraper-laden’ places!

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar

      Parts of North Calcutta still exude an old world charm. Beautiful houses with their characteristic Indo-Bengali designs, neighbourhood shops with bright typography, the narrow alleys…Kolkata is perfect for a leisurely walk esp. early in the morning when the city is still sleepy.

  8. Rahat Arora Avatar
    Rahat Arora

    This is a very interesting article on shyambazar never been to Kolkarta but pictures make me curious to explore Kolkata very soon

  9. 100cobbledroads Avatar

    I really enjoyed an authentic taste of Shyambazar through this article. The essence of a city is always hidden in its bylanes and peeks through its everyday affairs. All we need to do is have a keen eye. Lovely piece.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar

      It really is! The more I walk through the lanes of Kolkata’s old neighbourhoods, the more I fall in love with the city. It’s a strange love, I must admit, but love it is.

  10. Su Bha Sun Avatar

    Kolkata always appears fascinating to me. Not yet get a chance to explore this region but your post definitely reflects the true colours. Loved that rustic appearance of century old buildings and the bazaar.

  11. Carmen's Luxury Travel Avatar

    I’ve never been to this part of the world. Kolkata looks like an interesting region which I would love to explore and visit when I do visit. The markets filled with local foods and crafts are what I love the best.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar

      The best way to get a feel of any Indian city is through their markets. As if whole neighbourhoods congregate at certain times of the day to stock up on fresh produce, meat, flowers, etc. They are chaotic, yes, but brimming with interesting conversations.

  12. kirapascoe Avatar
    kirapascoe

    Wow, I love this piece! It’s so different from the usual travel blogs. I love background when reading about new places and this is fascinating. Also, your photos are incredible!

  13. July Avatar

    Your photos have such an artistic touch! I love how you capture the energy of the place. This is on my bucket list, I hope to visit it soon. Thanks for sharing!

  14. Daniela Frendo Avatar

    What an interesting article! I also love how each of your photos tells a story. You have managed to transport me to Shyambazar with your words and photos.

  15. Shivani Avatar

    I am intrigued everytime I hear and read about Kolkata and it’s rich heritage. Besides wandering in the market and eating Sondhesh, I’d love to stay in the Calcutta Bungalow, I’m sure it’s going to be iconic, going by its history!

  16. Emma Avatar

    You are such a great writer and the photos are great. It was a fascinating insight into Kolkata . Iā€™d love to go one day.

  17. Helen Avatar
    Helen

    I love your photos, so atmospheric. Each one tells a story. Wonderful post.

  18. Sarah Avatar
    Sarah

    Fascinating guide. I will be visiting Kolkata next year, I will definitely be visiting Shyambazar, these are the sort of neighbourhoods I love to explore!

  19. Culture Trekking Avatar

    It looks so charming and like there really is a lot of practical items to get whilst there. I love all the colorful photos and how you describe it. I really liked the bits about the history.

  20. Jackie S. Avatar
    Jackie S.

    I loved how you captured Shyambazar, Kolkata through your photography and storytelling. It would be exciting to browse through the local Shyambazar Market to see the fresh produce and also try the local foods. I’ll add this place to a future visit!

  21. Stephanie Avatar

    Your photos are amazing. Have never been to this part of the world, but definitely have to now! Thanks for sharing.

  22. journal of a yogini Avatar

    I have never seen a better Kolkata guide! Your photos are so inspiring and make me so excited to visit Kolkata. I will definitely take this post as a guide with me. Thank you for your effort

  23. thewordhermit Avatar
    thewordhermit

    Sounds like those beautiful old buildings are quite endangered in Shyambazar! From a tourist perspective, it seems quite off the beaten path, which I would love! It would be fabulous to see some of the heritage of this area preserved, but I also appreciate that it remains an authentic, bustling neighborhood that is evolving with its people. You have done an amazing job capturing Shyambazar in your photos.

  24. Bidisha Avatar

    I have spent 4 years of my life in Kolkata, stumbling upon your post brought back a plethora of memories of those four years of my life. Very nostalgic. Keep up the good work!

  25. Buena Paz L Montero Avatar

    You’ve got great eye for photography…. i love all the photos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge about this place and putting photos šŸ™‚

  26. Bernie Jackson Avatar

    The way you write is totally captivating. From the description of the intersection at the start (reminding me of Paris in rush hour) to those keenly observed vignettes of life – the woman eating a quick snack in the market with her head tilted back in appreciation, the cat eyeing up the potential for a smart bit of cat burglary and the tired flower seller, it’s all both beautiful and poignant. These are the things I travel for, and your keen observational eye and pen – ok, keyboard – have set them out for us to appreciate. I’ve truly enjoyed journeying with you.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar

      Thank you so much, Bernie! Life flows at a slower pace in the lanes of North Calcutta and there’s so much beauty all around.

  27. Michael Hodgson Avatar

    As always, your photos tell a marvelous story that complement your writing so well. Love the weaving of history and current into a useful travelog. Breaks my heart though to read that the Bengal government is so ineffective at protecting the heritage and culture of the region. Any hope this will change before too much irreversible damage is done?

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar

      I like to be hopeful. Many local artists and heritage enthusiasts, people who are hopelessly in love with the city of Calcutta, are fighting ahead to preserve what remains of this great city.

  28. siarraturner Avatar
    siarraturner

    Thanks for giving me a new location to add to my bucket list!! I’ve never been to India but I’m excited to finally go.

  29. Nic Hilditch-Short Avatar
    Nic Hilditch-Short

    I just love your photos and how you have captured this beautiful place. These sorts of neighbourhoods are the sorts of places that we absolutely love to explore, those that have so much character and authenticity, this is somewhere we would absolutely visit when we get over to India.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar

      Please come! If we’re in the city, we’d be happy to show you around and treat you to some of our favorite street food.

  30. Travel with Mei and Kerstin Avatar

    Kolkata is actually not on our bucket list, but from what we’ve learned here in your post it seems like it’s totally worth visiting! We’d love to see the old buildings and chat with the locals. By the way, it’s crazy that most of the shops in Shyambazar are still owned by the Bengali families!

  31. sanjeeb Avatar
    sanjeeb

    The architecture of even simple houses speaks a lot about the Bengali babu and his worldview and aesthetic.
    You also get Inga-banga cuisine like fish fry, sugared toast, kaviraji, moghlai and of course ishtew.
    The public buildings like schools show the importance given to education.
    Bengali sweets and telebhajaa is another attraction

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar

      Yes! Continental food is almost impossible to get in other parts of India but what I miss most is the city’s architecture and telebhaja. Oh how I miss the fowl cutlet!

  32. Pradiptamohan Basu Avatar
    Pradiptamohan Basu

    In the mid-70s, when I was young, I used to work in a factory in Sodpur (near Kharda). We had shift-based duties and sometimes – especially after the end of the night shift – I used to get down from the bus to South Calcutta at the 5-point crossing and lazily explore the lanes and by-lanes of “North Calcutta”. I was from South Calcutta. But, the northern part of the city always fascinated me. Especially, during the pre-Pujo days, when I would watch and admire the Durga idol being sculpted in the courtyards (thakur dalan) of the old mansions of north Calcutta. In the misty (smog?) winter mornings, I would stop at some non-descript local sweet shop in a lane to taste the freshly prepared singaras and jilibis (samosa and jalebi to the rest of India). Even now, when I go to Kolkata, I try to get a glimpse of the north. It is painful to see many of those old regal mansions replaced by faceless houses. And, it hurts equally to find most of the surviving ones in a crumbling state. Yes – North was different – its culture, its sense of humour (including streetsmartness), its food, its aura of aristocracy, its history – everything! How I miss all that.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar

      Thank you so much for writing to us, Mr. Basu. It really means a lot. We are happy that there are people like you who still love the city and find stories and solace in wandering through its lanes and by-lanes. I had to move to Hyderabad a few months back and I miss Calcutta every single day. The architecture and the old houses, the slow life in the lanes of North Calcutta…it saddens me to be so far away.

  33. Soham Deb Avatar

    I lived in Bagbazar in my childhood. I have visited the places mentioned above countless times but did not ever think of writing on Shyambazar This blog post will remain with me for a long time and I hope to write something on Shyambazar very soon. Thank you for taking me on a nostalgic trip down memory lane.

    Also, do you stay in North Kolkata?

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar

      Hi Soham, thank you for reading our post. It was wonderful to know that our post made you reminisce your childhood. What are some of the spots you frequented?

      I am very much from North Calcutta, Girish Park to be precise. But recently have had to move to Hyderabad due to work.

  34. Santanu Avatar

    Hey sould have read this while still in Calcutta in 2018. The Calcutta Bunglow in my old childhood para. Never dreamt I would be a prabashi Bangali, though wanted to. If I had read earlier I would have visited Fariapukur. Well written and info packed.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar

      Thank you, Santanu! We had to move out of the city last year too but we keep going back, and keep exploring. The belly of the city is overflowing with stories.

  35. Danielle in Wanderland Avatar

    I have been to Kolkata once… but need to now go back – great tips!!

  36. Bongkonect Avatar

    Really Love Your Blog. Keep it up.

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