North Berwick, a pleasant seaside town in East Lothian, is just a 30-minute train ride from the Scottish capital. On a day trip to North Berwick, explore some of the best beaches in East Lothian, relish fresh Scottish seafood, and find out about seabirds. This North Berwick day trip itinerary covers the top things to do in North Berwick in this guide!
NORTH BERWICK / SCOTLAND
“What a pretty station!” we say in unison as we step onto the North Berwick platform. The unmanned station is adorned with barrels fashioned into flower pots and tulips are in full bloom! Some of them, as the note says, are competitors in an upcoming flower festival! There’s even a teeny train carved out of barrels painted blue and yellow and planted with the brightest of spring blooms! North Berwick in East Lothian is one of the go-to weekend destinations for those of us living in Edinburgh. It is home to some of the best beaches in East Lothian such as Yellowcraig Beach. The charming little seaside town overlooks the Firth of Forth and its islands: Fidra, Lamb, Craigleith, and Bass Rock.
The history of North Berwick goes back to the eighth century when a ferry was initiated to serve pilgrims en route to the shrine of St. Andrews in Fife. In the fifteenth century, the town became a royal burgh in the reign of James I of Scotland and was notorious for witch-hunts. The Auld Kirk Green, the ruins of which still stand at the harbour, was used for gatherings by the accused in the North Berwick Witch Trials (1590–92). One of the most famous witch trials at North Berwick was that of Agnes Sampson, who was accused of making a potion to create rough storms in the North Sea as King James VI of Scotland was sailing home from Denmark with his new wife, Anne of Denmark and burnt at the stake in 1591.
Today, North Berwick attracts visitors with its lovely beaches and amazing eateries serving local Scottish produce. It is also home to the Scottish Seabird Centre which organises boat trips to gannet colonies on the Bass Rock, puffin spotting tours, and other bird-watching tours.
There isn’t a lot to do in North Berwick which is kind of what you sometimes want on a day trip, a chance to relax and North Berwick promises exactly that: A picnic/barbeque on the beach, people-watching, and leisurely walks. Scroll down to find out about the top things to do in North Berwick!
Things to Do in North Berwick
- How to Reach North Berwick
- Things to Do in North Berwick
- Stroll through Town
- Spend Hours at the Harbour
- Walk along the Beaches
- Walk the John Muir Way to Yellowcraig Beach and Dirleton Castle
- Walk to Seacliff Beach via Tantallon Castle
- Visit the Scottish Seabird Centre
- Go on a Bird-watching Boat Trip
- Spot the Sculptures
- Climb the North Berwick Law
- Admire the Greenery in the Lodge Grounds
- Visit the Coastal Community Museum
- Photograph Bass Rock
- Book a Tasting at NB Distillery
- Where to Eat in North Berwick
- Where to Stay in North Berwick
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How to Reach North Berwick
Do I need a car to go to North Berwick? No. Public transport is available in North Berwick. North Berwick is one of the easiest day trips from Edinburgh. It has a train station and is served by regular ScotRail services. Or, you can take the bus.
BY TRAIN // ScotRail runs frequent services from Edinburgh to North Berwick daily. The journey takes a little over 30 min and promises soothing views of the lush countryside. The tickets cost us about £7 with a rail card.
BY BUS // East Coast bus 124 connects Edinburgh to North Berwick and the journey takes around an hour, depending on traffic.
Also read: Check out our list of free things to do in Edinburgh: 20+ Free Things to Do in Edinburgh.
Things to Do in North Berwick
You can cover most of the top things to do in North Berwick on a day trip but some of the places such as Yellowcraig Beach, Seacliff Beach, Tantallon Castle, and NB Distillery are slightly out of town and it may not be possible to cover all them in a single day unless you are driving or have a bike.
Stroll through Town
The first thing you notice about North Berwick is how lovely it is! Strolling through this charming seaside town is no doubt everyone’s favourite thing to do in North Berwick. Pretty shops and cafes line the narrow streets, the houses are painted in pretty pastel shades and there are decorations made of shells, and flowers in baskets adorn the town– it really is charming! On Main St., stop to admire the door knockers — shaped as lobsters and crabs and anchors, all in line with the marine theme– on the front doors and to take a photo of the wee house squished in between two townhouses. While exploring the town stop by the ruins of St. Andrews Kirk.
Spend Hours at the Harbour
My favourite thing to do in North Berwick is sitting on an old bench and watching the waters of the Firth of Forth and the gulls as they squawk and bicker. A thin trail threads along the rocky headland, past an old blue cabin, and leads to a viewpoint with lovely views of Bass Rock, and if you are short on time and can do only the shortest of walks, this is the one that I recommend. Walk around the harbour, listen to the jangling boats, watch the gulls eyeing any human that has the smallest bit of food in their hands, and breathe the sweet scent of the sea! On the Sunday that we visited, there was a small market selling works by local artists. You can also pop into the lobster hatchery to learn about the lifecycle of lobsters.
Also read: Another weekend, another day trip: How about going to Culross next? See Top Things To Do In Culross: Day Trip Itinerary to plan a trip.
Walk along the Beaches
Exploring the beaches is the best thing to do in North Berwick! It was low tide when we visited and the beach was a forest of seaweed but we walked westward with the walkers and the dogs and watched the many moods of Fidra in sun and shade, mostly shade. We sat on a rock and watched a flock of eiders bobbing in the waters. And then a group of sailboats left the harbour and we watched their white sails glow in the cloudy sunlight. The path to West Bay Beach hugs a golf course, so be aware of golf balls.
Walk the John Muir Way to Yellowcraig Beach and Dirleton Castle
Walk a part of the John Muir Way to Yellowcraig Beach (3.3 miles) which is regularly voted as one of the best beaches in East Lothian. You can also continue along West Bay Beach towards Yellowcraig. Wild camping is allowed at Yellowcraig and it is a popular spot for locals. Toilet facilities (10 am to 6 pm) are available at the car park. You can also visit Dirleton Castle nearby. The ruins of the medieval castle are known for having the world’s longest herbaceous border in its 19th-century gardens.
Walk to Seacliff Beach via Tantallon Castle
Seacliff Beach, another East Lothian jewel, is a 5-mile walk from North Berwick and it is one of the best beaches in East Lothian. Mostly unspoilt and empty of crowds, it offers excellent views of Bass Rock. En route, take a detour to Tantallon Castle, a 16th-century red-sandstone fortress that was the former seat of the Earls of Angus and succumbed to English bombardment in the 17th century.
Also read: Looking for a scenic walk near Edinburgh? How about doing the South Queensferry to Cramond: The Shore Walk next weekend?
Visit the Scottish Seabird Centre
The Scottish Seabird Centre is a conservation and education charity committed to Scotland’s marine environment. They have informative exhibitions on the many different kinds of seabirds and marine mammals that the area attracts. You can see the gannet colonies on Bass Rock with interactive live cameras to zoom in on amazing local wildlife. They organise bird-watching boat trips and various events to increase awareness about Scottish marine life. They also have a gift shop where you can pick up a souvenir; we picked up a magnet with a picture of a puffin!
Go on a Bird-watching Boat Trip
One of the more adventurous things to do in North Berwick is going on a boat trip. The Scottish Seabird Centre organises an hour-long seabird catamaran cruise that will take you around Craigleith before heading down to the world-famous Bass Rock with its 150,000 nesting gannets. The Three Island Safari Tour also includes Lamb Island alongside Craigleith and Bass Rock. Boat trips to the Isle of May are organised in spring and early summer when the island is teeming with thousands of seabirds returning to breed, including puffins, guillemots, razorbills, fulmars, kittiwakes, and shags.
Spot the Sculptures
The bronze sculpture of the man with the binoculars looking towards Bass Rock is so lifelike you wouldn’t realize it’s a sculpture if you weren’t paying attention! Nearby is a sculpture of a tern, a trio of penguins, and a seal.
Climb the North Berwick Law
For a bird’s eye view of North Berwick, the Firth of Forth, and the surrounding countryside, climb the 613 ft tall North Berwick Law. It is a moderately challenging climb and takes about an hour to the summit where you will be greeted by a pair of whale jawbones! The jawbones were originally placed there in 1709 and replaced in 1935 but were removed in 2005 because they were at risk of collapse and were replaced by a fibreglass replica in 2008. Definitely one of the top things to do in North Berwick.
Admire the Greenery in the Lodge Grounds
The Lodge Grounds are open to the public; just walk through the arch between the building and you are transported into a quiet oasis. When we visited in April, the last of the daffodils were nodding in the sunshine and wee robins were prancing about the boughs. And of course, there are cute dogs enjoying their walks. & that is what I love the most about Scottish parks: the abundance of furry creatures!
Visit the Coastal Community Museum
North Berwick’s Coastal Community Museum is free to enter and offers a wonderful opportunity to learn about the culture and heritage of the coastal communities that make up East Lothian’s North Berwick coastal ward – North Berwick, Dirleton, Gullane, Aberlady, and Whitekirk plus the smaller inland hamlets.
Photograph Bass Rock
As they crossed over the dune and reached the peak, the bay became visible, with the Bass Rock looming behind it. On clear days with a low tide it appeared so close it might have beached itself on the sand, as if it were unmoored and went where it pleased.
The Bass Rock, Evie Wyld
Bass Rock dominates the landscape if you look eastwards from North Berwick and if you are wondering what that white glaze over the rock is, it is gannet poo! After all, Bass Rock is home to the largest gannet colony in the world– over 150,000 in the peak breeding season– earning it Sir David Attenborough’s claim to be one of the ‘wildlife wonders of the world’. In the seventh century, Bass Rock was a Christian retreat and home to St Baldred of Tyninghame, the ‘Apostle of the Lothians’ and the ruins of the church survive to this day. Sometime after 1058, the Lauder family established a castle on the rock, which later offered protection to James, son of Robert III. A lighthouse was erected in 1902 on the site of the castle keep.
Adventurous travellers can visit the ruins and the gannet colony on Bass Rock. Boat journeys are available from the Scottish Seabird Centre but note that landings (between Easter and autumn) are subject to the weather.
Book a Tasting at NB Distillery
Another exciting thing to do in North Berwick is to go for a gin tasting. 3 miles from North Berwick (1 mile from Seacliff Beach) is NB Distillery, a multi-award-winning eco-distillery. They run tasting tours and you will get a chance to learn about their gin and vodka-making process.
Where to Eat in North Berwick
Of course, the most important thing to do in North Berwick is eat! For a town of its size, it offers an amazing variety of food and drinks.
Bostock Bakery
Bostock Bakery is enough of a reason to visit North Berwick! Their baked goodies are sublime and they have a large selection from doughnuts to brownies and from cakes to cheesecakes. That Sunday afternoon we had a Pastel de Nata and the most delicious slice of Basque Cheesecake and we can’t stop thinking of them!
Steampunk Coffee Roasters & Cafe
We had to give it a miss but it is highly recommended by folks. Their savoury muffins and single-origin coffee are much loved.
Lobster Shack
Lobster Shack is famed for its fresh seafood, straight from the waters to your table, and they have been highly recommended by various media outlets and food connoisseurs. Unfortunately, they weren’t open to customers because of staff shortage but they pointed us to The Rocketeer instead.
The Rocketeer
We ordered half a lobster, grilled and drenched in butter and served with a wedge of lemon. It was expensive but what a lobster it was! The most buttery and delicate, tender fruit of the sea! It gets very, very busy, especially on the weekends, so book ahead. We had our lunch from a box on a bench overlooking the waters.
Also read: Visit one of Scotland’s most historic cities, Stirling, with our guide: Top Things to Do in Stirling.
North Berwick Fry
North Berwick’s favourite stop for fish and chips! They have a sit-in restaurant and also a takeaway.
Alandas Gelato
A gazillion flavours of gelato! We tried the rhubarb crumble and it was beautiful.
Herringbone
We could not accommodate it on our day trip but is recommended for its preparations with local Scottish produce.
Where to Stay in North Berwick
We visited North Berwick on a day trip but there are loads of hotels and BnBs if you want to stay the night but be aware that accommodation options are particularly expensive in North Berwick and there are hardly any places under £100, especially if you are a solo traveller or a couple looking for a budget option. If you want to splurge, Marine North Berwick and The Nether Abbey are recommended by most travellers.
We loved North Berwick! It is close to Edinburgh and makes for a lovely car-free day trip from Edinburgh. On sunny days, it would be great to have a picnic on the beach– North Berwick has some of the best beaches in East Lothian– or go on a boat trip to the islands.
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Have you visited North Berwick? What are your favourite things to do in North Berwick?
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