Surrounded by rolling estates that produce some of the world’s favourite tea, Darjeeling has been the crown jewel of the Eastern Himalayas since the English built their summer homes here to wake up gazing at the dazzling Kanchenjunga massif. Though the urban sprawl has swallowed the verdant hillside and roads are inundated by a constant stream of vehicles, Darjeeling remains the top destination for Bengalis, who will, if you dare ask, wax eloquent for hours about the Queen of Hills all day. Of course, they will complain and lead you into the 60s and 70s when Darjeeling was “more charming, more serene” but it is what it is and they love her just the same, they will love her just the same. This 3 days in Darjeeling itinerary will show you the best things to do in Darjeeling.
DARJEELING, WEST BENGAL / INDIA
There’s this thing about Darjeeling. Despite its chaotic urban sprawl, its ever-congested roads and increasing pollution, and its moody and unpredictable political climate, we always come back to Darjeeling. Ask a Bengali about Darjeeling and they will reply with a sigh. The very thought of a dazzling Kanchenjunga crowning the horizon fills our hearts with longing, with nostalgia.
Clinging to the mountainside at an elevation of more than 2000 m, Darjeeling commands superior views of the Kanchenjunga range and the surrounding tea estates that produce some of the world’s most expensive teas. The social fabric is colourful; besides the Gorkhas and the native tribes like the Rajbanshis and the Lepchas, immigrants from lower Bengal and Bihar have been running successful businesses here for decades. The political history of Darjeeling is complex. It was ruled by various local clans till it became part of the Kingdom of Sikkim in 1642. In 1707, the Gorkhas took control of the region. They were defeated by the British in 1816, who handed over the hills back to the Chogyal of Sikkim who allowed the British to use the area known as Darjeeling as a sanatorium in the year 1835 for a sum of INR 3000 a year. In 1865, British forces defeated the ruler of Bhutan in the Anglo-Bhutan war and annexed Kalimpong and Dooars to form the district of Darjeeling which later was made a part of the Bengal province. Politics continue to be complex in Darjeeling with the Gorkhas demanding a separate state of Gorkhaland citing the lack of representation and opportunities available to the residents of Darjeeling. Ethnic differences with the rest of West Bengal and the lack of a shared political and historical past have further complicated the situation.
But Darjeeling continues to be a darling. Every year, thousands from the plains flock to these hills to escape the heat and humidity of Kolkata. They arrive praying for a glimpse of the Kanchenjunga and spend their days roaming the winding streets of Darjeeling, eating at Keventers and Glenary’s, and indulging in adda over cups of Darjeeling tea. Some come from Europe to walk in the past of their ancestors, to search for their gravestones and their stories, while others come to volunteer in missionary schools and orphanages. Some just come curious to see the queen of the Himalayas and enjoy the various things to do in Darjeeling. Don’t forget to have our 3 days in Darjeeling itinerary handy!
3 Days in Darjeeling Itinerary
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This 3 days in Darjeeling itinerary covers all the top things to do in Darjeeling. But if you want to delve into the long and complex history of this hill town and understand the many facets of its tea plantations, go on long, lingering walks in the Himalayas or immerse into the local culture, consider staying a week or longer.
Darjeeling Itinerary Day 1
Observatory Hill, Happy Valley Tea Estate / Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Himalayan Tibet Museum
AM // Of course, this Darjeeling itinerary starts with food! Start your day with Keventers’ famous pork platter and a cup of hot chocolate. Located on the lip of Nehru Road, Keventers’ beloved rooftop offers a study in contrast: the chaotic thoroughfare and smoke-belching taxis screeching uphill and the serene Kanchenjunga rising above the clouds. Hundreds of eateries might sprout in Darjeeling but Keventers’ place in the Bengali psyche will remain unchallenged!
On the way to the mall, grab some baked goodies and confectionaries from Glenary’s. Freshly baked loaves, muffins, fruit cakes, tarts, pies, pastries, and chocolates fill the shelves at 10 am every morning. And their cream rolls are to die for! We were there the week before Christmas and these beautiful fondant-covered white and red Christmas-themed cakes were up for sale.
From Glenary’s, head to the mall and take the right towards Mahakal Market, then climb up to the Mahakal Temple, a unique complex where a Hindu priest and a Buddhist monk offer prayers to Lord Shiva and Buddhist deities. Darjeeling’s oldest monastery, the Dorje-ling Monastery, was originally located here but was shifted to its current home in the Bhutia Basti following Nepalese invasions in the 1780s. The hilltop offers mesmerizing views of the Kanchenjunga and the surrounding hillside with its countless hamlets.
Climb down and keep going around the hill to the Kanchenjunga viewpoint and onwards making a circle around Observatory Hill, one of Darjeeling’s main attractions.
Where Mall Road meets NC Road, you can either choose to continue towards the mall past St. Andrews church, whose stark white spire shimmers against the dark foliage. Or, you can head towards Happy Valley Tea Estate, Darjeeling’s second oldest tea estate where you can tour a tea factory. The other option is to head towards the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and further to the Pattabong Tea Estate. On the way, stop at Hot Stimulating Café for a cup of steaming hot chai and some soul-warming wai wai noodles.
Also read: Fancy a detour to Gangtok? Check our 2 Days in Gangtok itinerary for a detailed travel guide that showcases the best things to do in Gangtok.
PM // For lunch, head to Kunga, one of the best restaurants in Darjeeling. Eating at Kunga is undoubtedly one of the best things to do on any Darjeeling itinerary. Much loved by visitors, Kunga offers homely Tibetan food in a simple and cosy setting. Order a steaming bowl of thukpa or thenthuk and some momos, or a bowl of phing, or a plate of pork curry with rice and a glass of ginger lemon honey tea to warm your soul.
Post lunch, head to the Himalayan Tibet Museum. Inaugurated by Guru Gurung Tulku Nima Hoiser Rinpoche in 2015, the museum houses traditional Tibetan artefacts and offers insights into the Tibetan struggle for freedom.
From the museum, head for a tea-tasting session at Nathmulls or at Golden Tips and learn to tell your first flush from your second flush, your orange pekoe from your silver tips while sipping cups of the beloved elixir.
Restaurants close early in Darjeeling; by 7 pm, the hills are asleep but if you don’t fancy an early dinner on this Darjeeling trip, there’s always Glenary’s. However, this day 2 of this 3 days in Darjeeling itinerary takes you to experience a memorable sunrise, we recommend that you go to bed early tonight. Glenary’s is one of the few places that are open later, so settle down with a hot toddy. The menu has continental, Chinese, and Indian fare. We had these superb beef cutlets, Shepherd’s pie, and roast pork. They usually have live music sessions starting at 7 pm.
TIP: For a truly offbeat Darjeeling experience, consider joining a Tibetan cooking class or spending a night stargazing with Darjeeling Walks.
Darjeeling Itinerary Day 2
Tiger Hill, Joy Ride to Ghoom, Monasteries
AM // If you are a morning lark, wake up at 3 am for a pilgrimage to Tiger Hill. Seeing the sunrise from Tiger Hill is one of the most romantic things to do in Darjeeling! Make sure to book a taxi the day before. On the clearest of clear days, you can see Mount Everest from Tiger Hill. Watching the sunrise from here is a rite of passage for Bengalis. I was 11 or 12 years old when I stood on the hilltop, shivering as the sun rose like a great ball of fire and painted the snowy Kanchenjunga massif in shades of red and gold.
This time, we lay in bed at the Revolver and watched the skies turn rose gold and the Kanchenjunga light up from our window!
For breakfast, amble to Sonam’s Kitchen where you can recharge on homemade toasts slathered in butter and topped with caramelized bananas or on fluffy chocolate chip pancakes.
Post breakfast, join the crowds on a toy train joy ride to Ghoom via the Batasia Loop. This is indeed one of the best things to do in Darjeeling and a must-do activity on any Darjeeling itinerary. Get off the train at Ghoom and hire a taxi to visit the surrounding monasteries like Yiga Choeling Monastery, Druk Kunsang Monastery, Dali Monastery, Magdhog Monastery, Ogyan Kunsang Chokhorling Monastery, and the Japanese Peace Pagoda.
Alternatively, you can also hike to the Bhutia Busty Monastery. The monastery, originally located on Observatory Hill, was relocated to Bhutia Busty following the Nepalese raids of the 1780s. It was rebuilt following an earthquake in 1934. It houses a collection of Buddhist scripts, including the prized Book of the Dead.
Also read: West Sikkim is an enchanting land full of mountains and woods, waterfalls and orchids. Explore this little-known part of the country with our guide: The Complete West Sikkim Travel Guide.
PM // For lunch, grab a spot at the Shangri-La, a restored heritage building that has been turned into a hotel and a restaurant. The chicken salt and pepper that we ordered with our beer was delicious!
One of the best things to do in Darjeeling is simply walking around, leisurely. Snack on some phuchka and people watch on the mall. Marvel at the freshness of the local produce, the many greens and mushrooms crowding the greengrocers. Watch the sun set in a flurry of colours and the pristine peaks slowly disappear, the fog slowly settling in the valley and cloaking the tall pines in a ghostly haze.
Day 2 of this 3 days in Darjeeling itinerary ends with a local dinner. Head to Penang which is known for its Nepali thali. Or, to Mohan Restaurant (we haven’t tried the food here but the recommendations are good!) which is open till 10 pm and serves a thali with beef cutlet and beef curry, dried fish, gundruk, vegetables, and homemade pickles.
Also read: Going to Gangtok next and not sure where to eat? Here are our 10 Best Places to Eat in Gangtok.
Darjeeling Itinerary Day 3
Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre, Ropeway, Lloyd Botanical Garden
AM // Indulge in some poori aloo dum at Hasty Tasty for breakfast today. Then hire a taxi to the Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre. Founded in 1959 for Tibetan refugees, the centre provides training and employment to community members in the art of Tibetan handicrafts. You can visit the workshops– there are workshops for woodworking, knitting, weaving, tailoring, and others– and buy handcrafted goods from the retail store.
From there, head to the ropeway station at Singamari, one of Darjeeling’s popular attractions. Check, in advance, to see if the ropeway is open. A ride will take you to the Tukvar Tea Estate (this is how far the ropeway currently goes) and onwards to the Singla Tea Estate, if it is operational. The views of the tea garden are mesmerizing; rows and rows of tea plants blanket the hillside in an unbroken shade of green. From Tukvar, take the ropeway back to Singamari.
If the ropeway is not operational, spend some time at the Pandam Tea Estate, which offers stunning views of the Kanchenjunga. After all, visting a tea garden is an unmissable activity on any Darjeeling itinerary!
Also read: If you are seeking a respite from the bustle of Darjeeling, look no further than Chhota Mangwa. Haven’t heard of it? Here’s our Chhota Mangwa Travel Guide to help you get started.
PM // Back in Darjeeling, head to the no-frills Singalila where you’ll be served whatever is there on the day’s menu. Expect rice with Nepali pork curry, beef curry, or chicken curry, and a helping of dal and local greens.
After lunch, hang out at the mall and drink some chai. Or, head to the Llyod Botanical Garden, a favourite with botanists and researchers from around the world, and one of Darjeeling’s most popular attractions. Here, you can see native Himalayan orchids brought from the Singalila National Park, indigenous plants and trees, a glorious weeping willow and an ancient ginkgo tree, and forests of Cryptomeria, Bucklandia, and Alnus. The conservatory houses a collection of cacti and succulents.
There aren’t many places open for dinner, so you’ll have to revisit one of your earlier stops but if you are staying at the Revolver, order their popular Naga thali. It comes with a generous helping of rice, merse-un, steamed vegetables, pickles, and a pork preparation (they have pork with bamboo shoot, pork with axone, and pork with anishi).
Darjeeling Quick Guide
So you really want to go to Darjeeling? Here is a quick guide to all you need to know before heading on your 3 days in Darjeeling trip.
How to Reach Darjeeling
Darjeeling is a 3-hour drive from Siliguri. You can book a cab from Bagdogra Airport, the nearest airport, or New Jalpaiguri railway station, the nearest major railhead. Shared taxis are available from Siliguri Junction.
To add something unique to your Darjeeling itinerary, consider the toy train! For a car-free slow travelling experience, book a ride on the UNESCO heritage Darjeeling Himalayan toy train. Check before you book because services are often cancelled. The ride can take up to 7 hrs but the vistas on the way, and the cute railway stations, make for a worthwhile journey.
Shared taxis are available from Gangtok, Kalimpong, Mirik, and other major hill towns in the region.
When to Visit Darjeeling
For pleasant weather, come in spring and summer which are the months of March to early May. The trees are lush and flowers, including native orchids, bloom around the hillside. Avoid the monsoon for the roads often are blocked by landslides. Besides, cloudy skies mean little to no views of the Kanchenjunga. Skies are clear in autumn and winter, from October to February, and though it can get really cold (it snows sometimes towards the fag end of winter), the clear views are worth the heavy woollens.
Where to Stay in Darjeeling
There are some excellent places to stay on your 3 days in Darjeeling.
The Revolver, located right behind the Union Chapel on Mahatma Gandhi Road, is our favourite place in town. The 5 rooms in the lodge are Beatle-themed and they also have a large apartment-style suite for families. Bikash and his wife who run the place are amazing folks and serve a mean Naga thali for dinner (pre-orders only). On our 3 days in Darjeeling trip, this is where we stayed.
If you are willing to splurge, the colonial-era Windamere, Elgin, Mayfair Darjeeling, and the Glenburn tea estate (outside town) are your best options.
For unparalleled views, check into The Retreat whose rooms offer dreamy views. From the terrace, where you can spend leisurely mornings sipping white tea, the Kanchenjunga can be seen in all its glory. The family-run Everest Villa and the attic rooms of the Shangri-La are much loved by travellers too.
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How did you like our 3 days in Darjeeling itinerary? What are your favourite things to do in Darjeeling?
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