In the lanes of Puducherry (formerly, Pondicherry; affectionately, Pondy), French and Tamil elements mingle. The result is both modern and archaic, material and spiritual: one moment you are at Sri Aurobindo’s ashram learning and practising yoga, the next you are at a French-style villa indulging in the excesses of Franco-Tamil cuisine. It’s a town where tourists and seekers meet; it’s a town where, at the drop of a hat, you are transformed from a camera totting anybody to an artist in search of a sustainable, mindful life; it’s a town of paradoxes, a town overflowing with European nostalgia coupled with Indianness. Our Pondicherry itinerary covers the best places to see in Pondicherry. Spend 2 days in Pondicherry relishing the sunrise and sea breeze, stroll through the French and Tamil quarters collecting and sharing stories, go on a shopping spree for collectables, dine at historic villas, and partake of Sri Aurobindo’s philosophy.
PONDICHERRY / INDIA
There is no missing the bright pastel walls and bougainvillea-draped doorways of Pondicherry’s French precincts. A French colony till 1954, Pondicherry has retained its colonial charms: streets with French names, restaurants and hotels housed in airy villas that dot the quiet streets, boutiques, and galleries selling local, artisanal products, and a police force who don bright red French képis. The major draw is the Aurobindo Ashram on Rue de la Marine; hundreds of disciples from around the globe come here to learn about Sri Aurobindo’s spiritual journey and to engage in yoga. Many opt for long-term stays in Auroville, a township founded by his disciple, Mirra Alfassa “The Mother.”
Beyond the canal, in the newer part of Pondicherry, life is more hectic a la Tamil Nadu. Glitzy malls hover over traditional Tamilian houses, many of which have been pulled down to make space for hotels and homestays. The few that remain are beautiful examples of local Tamil architecture; some of these houses have been converted to homestays and you can stay in these houses and admire their beautiful courtyards and alcoves. A number of colonial-era churches and institutions like the Calve College are located in the Tamil Quarters which is also home to Goubert Market, a nucleus of chaotic tarpaulin-covered alleys where you can shop for anything from a gajra to live octopi!
2 Days in Pondicherry Itinerary
How to Reach Pondicherry
BY AEROPLANE // Fly into Puducherry Airport (PNY) located at Lawspet. There are non-stop flights from Bengaluru, Hyderabad, and Vijayawada. The nearest international airport is in Chennai, from where you can either take a bus or a train to Pondicherry. Buses, depending on whether they take the bypass route or the scenic ECR, take anywhere between 3-and 4.5 hours. They will drop you off at the Pondicherry Bus Stand, from where the beach is around 2.5 km.
BY BUS // Buses to Pondicherry are available from all parts of Tamil Nadu and larger cities in neighbouring states. Overnight sleeper buses are available from Bangalore. See Redbus for tickets.
BY TRAIN // Most trains to Pondicherry terminate at Villupuram Junction, with only a few going onwards to Pondicherry. From Villupuram, you can either take a local train (passenger trains run at 5:25, 12:30, 14:00, and 17:00) or hop into a local bus. For trains from Chennai, click here.
2 Days in Pondicherry Itinerary: Day 1
Explore the French Quarters
AM // Sit on one of the many rocks on Rock Beach (the massive black boulders were placed there in the 80s to slow erosion) while it’s still dark and wait for the sun to make an appearance on the horizon, then revel in the calm golden light before heading to Baker Street for breakfast. Order a buttery, flaky croissant or a loaded pita pocket, then treat your sweet tooth with a chocolate éclair or a chocolatine before heading off to one of the best places to see in Pondicherry, the French Quarter, whose pastel walls have won the hearts of many!
Start outside the bright yellow French Consulate on Goubert Avenue and head towards the Old Lighthouse, a 19th-century structure that guided sailors to safety for over a hundred years from 1836 to 1978 when the new lighthouse became functional. Pay your respects at the Gandhi Mandapam— the statue of Gandhi here is surrounded by eight carved monolithic granite pillars brought from Gingee Fort– and the French War Memorial, then walk past the white Mairie Building (currently under restoration) and the Jeanne d’Arc Park behind which stands the pale pink Notre Dame des Anges Church. Visit the Ambedkar Manimandapam, then spend some time at the church before walking towards the Cluny Embroidery Centre to watch local women create works of art with needle and thread. Marvel at their handiwork (and, of course, at the magnanimous mansion!) and buy a piece or two to support their work. We had our eyes on an embroidered piece that had the alphabets and characters from Tintin but sadly did not have the budget for it; we went for a lovely embroidered handkerchief instead.
TIP: If you’d rather cycle than walk, book a ride with Pondy Cycle Tours. The Wake Up Pondy Cycle Tour from 7 am to 9 am is a great way to start your 2 days in Pondicherry tour.
Take the right on Rue Romain Rolland and walk to the Via Pondicherry, a cute store specializing in handmade souvenirs. If you are into antiques, there’s a store next door (I forget its name) with rooms full of colonial-era furniture. Turn left on Rue Mahe de Labourdonnais St on which stands the Chambre de Commerce and an erstwhile mansion housing the UCO Bank, across which is Bharathi Park. At the centre of the park is the Aayi Mandapam, a Greco-Roman structure topped by the fleur-de-lis.
A PEEK INTO THE PAST: The Aayi Mandapam was built in honour of Aayi, a courtesan who lived during the reign of Krishnadevaraya. According to legend, the king knelt before Aayi’s mansion mistaking it for a temple. Humiliated, he ordered the house to be demolished. Aayi begged for mercy and offered to tear down her own house to build a pond which was re-discovered in the mid-19th century by Pierre-Eugène Lamairesse who built canals to bring the potable water from Aayi’s pond in Muthurayarpalayam to the French Quarter.
Stroll awhile or rest your feet before exiting through the gate across the Raj Niwas. Spend an hour or so at the Pondicherry Museum where you can find artefacts that were excavated in Arikamedu and other relics. From here, walk towards the Aralmigu Manakkula Vinayagar Temple past the Auro Boutique where you can buy handmade soap, paper, incense, etc. made in Auroville and onwards to the Aurobindo Ashram, one of Pondicherry’s primary attractions. The ashram, located on the Rue de la Marine, is where the mortal remains of Sri Aurobindo and Mirra Alfassa “The Mother” are kept. The ashram dining hall on Ranga Pillai Street serves meals to residents of the ashram and guests.
PM // For lunch, head to Coromandel Café, recently recognized as one of India’s top 50 restaurants. Order the refreshing mango pad thai salad or the gorgeous Andaman tiger prawns. Or, if you’re Insta-obsessed, order their signature Posh N’ Pink Tagliatelle or the Pink Hummus. And if that isn’t enough, come back for breakfast the next day for their hot pink eggs Benedict!
Take a stroll along the Promenade after lunch, then head to the New Lighthouse, one of the top places to see in Pondicherry. The hexagonal geometry of the pastel blue staircase is mesmerizing; click some lovely shots while you prepare to huff and puff up the 249 stairs to the top of the lighthouse which commands unrivalled views of the Bay of the Bengal, the city of Pondicherry, and the nearby villages. Note that the lighthouse is only open between 3 pm and 5 pm.
Though sunsets aren’t as spectacular on the east coast as they are on the west, seat yourself on one of the massive black boulders that line Rock Beach and watch daylight give way to stars. Then head to the Storyteller’s Bar in the Promenade Hotel for a drink. We tried the Chocolate Filter Kapi, a unique whisky-based concoction made with locally sourced chocolate and served in a traditional devara, and French Toast, a cognac-based cocktail. Or, ride the elevator to the rooftop where at the Bay of Buddha you can gorge on delicious dumplings and pan-Asian dishes with the sea breeze caressing your face. For more eating and drinking recommendations, read our 20 best places to eat in Pondicherry post!
For dinner, head to Villa Shanti (make reservations in advance; in the high season, at least a week or more ahead), a restaurant in a renovated French-era mansion. Go for the prawn and pomelo salad or the roasted fish with ratatouille with some hand-picked wines on the side.
2 Days in Pondicherry Itinerary: Day 2
Explore the Tamil Quarters
AM // Our mornings in Kolkata would begin with a breakfast of kochuri torkari and from the large number of Bengali tourists here, that day isn’t far when there will be a mishti’r dokan on the boulevard! Begin the second day of your 2 days in Pondicherry trip with the mouth-watering buckwheat crepes—our top pick is the Crepe L’Orient— at Crepe in Touch before descending into the organized chaos of Goubert Market. We love visiting markets and there’s no way our 2 days in Pondicherry itinerary would be complete without a visit to the liveliest market in town! The exuberance and liveliness of the Goubert Market reminded me of Seattle’s Pike Place Market but it’s really very different! Named after Edouard Goubert, the first Chief Minister of Pondicherry, it’s not a place for the faint of heart. In the narrow tarpaulin-covered alleys inside the market, you can spot women sitting on their haunches, fleshing open massive seer fish and other fruits de mer; merchants sitting behind mountains of dry red hot chilli peppers and weighing aromatic spices; rows and rows of fresh local produce, banana leaves, and coconuts; butchers portioning chunks of beef and pork; flower sellers threading garlands and arranging roses into bouquets; and much much more. The scenes and smells can be sensory overload— if you join a cookery class, chances are it will include a guided tour through the market— but a walk through Goubert market is indeed the best way to get a glimpse into the local life and local palate.
Stop by the beautiful Immaculate Conception Church for a moment of serenity (and to admire the architecture, of course!) before re-entering the chaos again. Find your way through the crowds outside the church, past hawkers and vendors, and enter one of the quieter, narrower lanes. Walk by the traditional Tamil-style houses— these are private residencies, so be mindful when taking photographs— featuring a thalvaram (veranda with a roof supported by wooden posts) and a thinnai (semi-private veranda space with masonry benches for visitors). If you are lucky, you might get a chance to see the interiors of these houses; the rooms are usually built around one or more rectangular courtyards open to the sky and supported by wooden pillars. Spend some time appreciating the magnificent Calve College and Sushilabai School. On Vysial Street inside Hotel Dune Calve, is Ma Pondicherie, a lovely boutique that sells souvenirs and crafts by local artists.
PM // For lunch, head to Maison Perumal. Housed in a restored Tamil-style house, the restaurant serves the best of Franco-Tamil preparations. Order from an array of delectable curries or fresh fish and seafood.
Post lunch, head to Paradise Beach. Located around 13 km south of Pondicherry, Paradise Beach is one of the four famous beaches—the others being Serenity Beach, Auro Beach, and Rock Beach, in and around Pondicherry. Hop onto a boat and spend the rest of your afternoon lazing on the sandy beach. Note that the last boat departs the island at 5:30 pm and it is not advisable to stay after that unless you are part of the larger group. The road to Paradise Beach goes through the serene Tamil countryside and fishing hamlets where you can buy fresh catch (if you are up for a cooking adventure, buy some seafood and stir up a remarkable meal at your AirBnB!)
End your 2 days in Pondicherry trip with a drink or two at Richmond Bistro (we found the cheapest pints in town here!), then spend the rest of your evening listening to the song of the sea on Rock Beach. For dinner, head to Les Saveurs to taste the best French cuisine in the city. Fill yourself up with Shrimp Cakes, Eggplant Galettes, Chermoula spiced Chicken Tenders, Ratatouilles, Salmon Wellingtons, Lobster Thermidor, and all that your heart pleases before bidding goodbye to this pretty little corner of the world.
Other Things to Do in Pondicherry
If you have more than 2 days in Pondicherry, consider the following activities:
- Scuba Dive with Temple Adventures who run scuba diving courses and organize dives along the Coromandel Coast.
- Join a pottery workshop at the Golden Bridge Pottery. Founded by Ray Meeker and Deborah Smith, Golden Bridge Pottery has been hosting workshops led by artists from all over the world since 1997. If you are interested in something long-term, consider enquiring about their 7-month pottery course.
- Book a meal at Chez Pushpa for a true taste of local Creole i.e., Franco-Tamil cuisine.
Getting Around Pondicherry
Renting a scooter is the best way to get around Pondicherry. Honda Activa and similar models are available for anywhere between INR 300-350 per day. A valid driving license is required to rent a scooter. You can also rent bicycles (usually less than INR 100 a day). If like us you don’t know how to ride either a scooter or a bicycle, walking is the best option. The town isn’t that large, and you can explore almost all of it on foot unless you’re planning to go to Serenity Beach or Paradise Beach. Autorickshaws are available to ferry you around but unless you can bargain well or know the local rates, they are sure to overcharge you.
Where to Stay in Pondicherry
There’s no shortage of places to stay in Pondicherry! On our 2 days in Pondicherry trip, we stayed at the enigmatically named House of Blue Mangoes, a homestay in the Tamil quarter, and we highly recommend it! They have a quiet courtyard, a terrace, and a cool veranda where you can spend hours reading. The traditional Tamil-style house has only three rooms and tends to get booked quickly, so book in advance if you are planning to stay there.
Mid-range and deluxe options include Le Dupleix (possibly the most exclusive Pondicherry accommodations), La Villa, Villa Shanti, Palais de Mahe, and Dune De L’Orient (if classic four-poster beds are what you want to sleep in). If you want to stay in a traditional Tamil home and try Pondicherry’s unique Franco-Tamil food, we highly recommend Maison Perumal, a palatial Tamil mansion that is now a CGH hotel.
Getting Out
Auroville
An experimental township founded by The Mother, Auroville draws seekers of spirituality from around the globe. Divided into four separate zones– industry, culture, housing, and international provisions– with a giant gold geodesic dome temple at the centre, Auroville was envisioned as a township built around collaboration and real brotherhood. Organic farming, recycling, and sustainable indigenous building materials are the heart of Auroville. It’s around 10 km from Pondicherry; autos take anywhere between INR 300-500 depending on your bargaining skills. Though most visitors drop by on a day trip from Pondicherry, to understand the ethos of Auroville you must stay here for at least a week and perhaps volunteer in some capacity.
Tranquebar / Tharangambadi
An erstwhile Danish outpost, Tharangambadi “where the waves sing” is a quiet fishing village 115 km from Pondicherry. You can opt for a day trip– buses on the way to Karaikal will drop you here– or stay overnight at a heritage property like Neemrana’s Bungalow by the Beach or the Gate House. Fort Dansborg, Tranquebar Museum, the New Jerusalem Church, and of course, the super-fresh seafood are the prime attractions here.
Arikamedu
4 km south of Pondicherry, on the banks of the Ariyankuppam River, is a Roman trading post dating back to 200 BC. A Chola coin dating back to 1 BC, copper coins, fragments of amphorae, Arrentine shards, Chinese celadon pottery, beads, etc, have been found on the site. Though nothing much remains except for a dilapidated warehouse and groves of mango and coconut trees, it’s a worthwhile visit for history and archaeology enthusiasts.
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Go slow on your Pondicherry trip: Spend hours doing nothing on Rock Beach, stroll down the Promenade, marvel at the palatial French villas, learn about Sri Aurobindo’s philosophy, laze over long-winded breakfasts, and treat yourself to delicious dinners. And maybe sign up for a few sessions of yoga.
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