In the streets of Pune, the modern and the spiritual collide. Spend 48 hours in Pune exploring the streets of the old city, and you’ll find century-old temples, courtyards tucked away secretly behind busy marketplaces, forts and residences of the city’s illustrious inhabitants, street food stalls selling lip-smacking local snacks, and a cultural fabric woven by Marathis, Iranis, and migrants from neighbouring states. If you only have 2 days in Pune, cover the best things to do in Pune such as going on a gastronomic expedition and learning about Pune’s history on heritage walks.


PUNE, MAHARASHTRA / INDIA


The best way to discover a city is on foot and Pune is no different. With a history dating back to the Maratha and Peshwa empires and further back to the Rashtrakutas, the city offers a lot to see and a lot to learn. In the streets and peths of old Pune, you can get a glimpse of the city’s past: forts, wadas, and centuries-old temples, craftsmen labouring in workshops where local crafts have been honed for decades, tea stalls and cafes serving generations of patrons, and vibrant markets where business has been going on uninterrupted for years. Though signs of gentrification are everywhere– wooden buildings with sloping roofs and colonial-style structures built of grey stone cry for attraction next to modern highrises and neon signs– the city’s famed tree-lined avenues and old Irani cafes seem intact. The pleasant climate that had brought the British to the city now draws MNCs and IT professionals from across the world. Many come to the Osho International Meditation Resort, an ashram founded by the controversial godman, Rajneesh.

Walk with us as we spend 2 days in Pune and discover Pune in all its glory.

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2 Days in Pune Itinerary: Day 1

Mahatma Phule Mandai, Food Walk, Koregaon Park

MORNING // Start your 48 hours in Pune with bun omelettes, buttered toast, egg bhurji, and special tea at one of Pune’s famous Irani cafés, Vohuman Café. Located near the Pune railway station, Vohuman Café is patronized by young and old Punekars alike. It gets crowded at breakfast time, so be prepared to wait.

After breakfast, hop into an auto and head to the colourful Mahatma Phule Mandai, Pune’s main market. The stretch leading to it is lined by flower stalls. Inside the Gothic-style grey stone building, you can find colourful mounds of produce: pearly pink onions, potatoes, mounds of ginger, garlic, and turmeric roots, a variety of chillies, French beans, ripe pomegranates, figs, oranges, and bright yellow bananas. Watch the coconut sellers deftly remove the hard shell with master strokes of their sharp knives or the banana leaf sellers as they trim and roll the leaves into bunches. Stop at Baldeo Prasad Gupta for the poha and bread pattice. Or, try the patra (also known as patrode), a unique Maharashtrian dish of colocasia leaves stuffed with spiced chickpea flour.

On the way out, stop by Burud Ali, the locality of craftsmen who work with cane. Woven baskets and other artefacts fill the workshop-cum-shops that line the road.

TIP: If markets aren’t your jam, consider visiting the Aga Khan Palace or the Pataleshwar Caves. Mahatma Gandhi and other freedom fighters were interned by the British following the Quit India Movement in the Aga Khan Palace; Gandhiji’s wife, Kasturba, passed away in confinement here and there’s a shrine containing her ashes in the garden. The Pateshwar Caves date back to the Rashtrakuta period in the 8th century. The temple, cut from basalt, is dedicated to Lord Shiva. If you have kids in tow, head to Joshi’s Museum of Miniature Railway where one can see models of trains running through a miniature city that has, among other things, 65 signals, flyovers, and a park with a roller coaster!

AFTERNOON // For lunch, head to the Camp Area. Start your food tour at Kayani Bakery— no Pune itinerary is complete without a trip to this iconic bakery– to pick up a bag of their famed Shrewsberry cookies. Founded by Hormuz and Khodayar Irani in 1955, Kayani Bakery is one of Pune’s most iconic establishments and sells a delectable range of cookies and cakes. A short walk from here will bring you to Marz-o-Rin, a café founded by Sheriar J. Sheriyarji in 1965. Located in the Bakhtiar Plaza, a building that is well over a hundred years old, Marz-o-Rin serves chicken cheese bake, chicken loaf sandwiches, chutney sandwiches, and a variety of other snacks. They also sell cookies and cakes and have low-carb and vegan options too. Plus, their packaging is plastic-free and biodegradable!

Across the street is Budhani Waferwala (there are lots of stores of the same name; the oldest one is the last one in the alley) where you can buy edible souvenirs like potato wafers, banana chips, and local snacks like bhakarwadi and sabudana vadas. The next stop on the lunch tour is the oldest Parsi restaurant in Pune. Founded by Sorabjee Dorabjee in 1870, Dorabjee and Sons serves authentic Parsi dishes like the dhansak, patra ni macchi, bheja cutlet, and pulavs. Treat yourself to a feast and finish it some raspberry soda, a must-have item at every Parsi function! For tea, walk down the street to Café Yezdan, a café that dates to 1964 and serves brun maska, masala chai, egg bhurji, and other dishes.

Also read: Pondicherry, an erstwhile French colony on the Bay of Bengal, is known for its eclectic Franco-Tamil cuisine. Read about the 20 Best Places to Eat in Pondicherry here.

EVENING // Take an auto to Parvati Hill and climb the 103 steps to the main temple from where you can see the sunset. It’s a magnificent sight and a must on any Pune itinerary; watch as the blood-red disc of the setting sun paints the city red, then disappears beyond the horizon. Stay as little or as long– the hill closes at 8 pm– then make your way to Garden Vada Pav Centre, one of Pune’s beloved Vada Pav stalls. Here, they serve it with spicy and tangy green chutney and fried chillies, of course! They have two stalls: one on Buttee Street and one opposite the gate of JJ Garden. Come prepared for the crowds!

Spend the rest of your evening hanging out in Pune’s hippiest district, Koregaon Park, a neighbourhood crowded with ancient banyan trees whose canopy of hanging roots cast mystical shadows over the quiet streets and footpaths. Besides immaculate mansions and chic boutiques, Koregaon Park has numerous eateries and bars: for craft brews, head to Effingut Brewerkz; for Brazilian specialities, go to Boteco—  Restaurante Brasileiro; for healthy lattes, try One O Eight Café, but no matter which place you choose, stop by at the German Bakery, a café where a bombing killed 17 people in 2010 but which has since then bounced back and continues to serve decadent cakes, pizzas, and more to hundreds of loyal patrons.

PUNE GUIDED FOOD TOURS

Short on time? Join a guided food tour to taste the best of Pune’s food on your 48 hours in Pune tour!

2 Days in Pune Itinerary: Day 2

Shaniwar Wada, Kasba Peth, Fergusson College

MORNING // Day 2 of this 2 days in Pune itinerary starts with more food! Start your day with a plate of kanda poha at Anand Bhuvan, a nondescript eatery across the street from the back gate of the Shaniwar Wada. The peeling yellow lettering on the pale blue board is hardly legible but you can see the eager crowd flocking at the counter.

Before you enter the Shaniwar Wada, take a detour and explore the streets of Kasba Peth. Through the gates of Sardar Shitole Wada and you’ll find yourself in a quiet courtyard where stands a temple with lovely wooden pillars. Then onwards to Tambat Ali where you can watch craftsmen creating copper artefacts and to the Kasba Ganpati Temple where resides Pune’s resident deity.

TIP: Studio Coppre works with artists from Tambat Ali and stocks their products in their studio. If you don’t have the time to visit the workshops or if they are closed, consider picking up a souvenir from Studio Coppre.

The Shaniwar Wada is a magnificent fort in the heart of the city and is a must-visit on your 48 hours in Pune tour. Completed in 1732, the seven-storied fort was the seat of the Peshwas of the Maratha empire till 1818 when they were defeated by the British in the Third Anglo-Maratha War. Unfortunately, not much of the structure apart from the granite ramparts and heavy teak doors have survived; most of it was razed to mere rubbles in a yet-to-be-explained fire that raged for seven days in February 1828.

Completed by Nana Phadnavis in 1780, the Nana Wada is one of the oldest heritage structures in Pune. We were barred from entering– “not open to tourists”– but we hear that the building, built primarily from timber, features interesting arches, cypress-shaped columns, and fading frescoes. Continue down Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Road to the Dagadusheth Halwai Ganapati Temple, one of Pune’s richest temples, and onwards to the Vishnu Temple in Belbaug. Hidden in what appears to be a forgotten courtyard, the Belbaug Temple features a conical Maratha-style shikara with exquisite carvings and a cut-stone sanctum sanctorum which houses idols of Vishnu and Lakshmi. Nearby is the Tulshibaug Ram Mandir, a temple dating back to the Peshwa era and featuring exquisite woodwork, stonework, and lime stucco-work. Check out the fabulous ceiling; the woodwork is breathtaking! A few metres away is Vishrambaug Wada, the former residence of Peshwa Bajirao II, the last Peshwa of Maratha empire. Restoration work was on and the building was closed for the day and we were unable to see the carved pillars and ornate woodwork that we were looking forward to seeing. Down the road is Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum, where you can see sculptures dating back to the 14th century, ornaments, weapons, and other artefacts used by the Marathas and the Peshwas, and an interesting collection of musical instruments.

TIP: 2 days in Pune is not enough to really get into the skin of the city but joining a guided walking tour will ensure that you have easier access to the heritage buildings and will also be let into some of the secrets that the lanes of old Pune hide!

AFTERNOON // For lunch, head to Goodluck Café where you can try local specialities like Bheja Masala and Liver Fry.

Spend the rest of the afternoon exploring the area around Fergusson College, one of the country’s premier educational institutions. Founded in 1885 by the Deccan Education Society, the college was inaugurated by the grandson of William Wordsworth. The lush campus with its beautiful Victorian-style buildings (photography is prohibited) offers a slice of solitude from the rush of modern city life. The area is choc-a-bloc with eateries, street food stalls selling local favourites like pani puri and bhel, and stalls selling anything from shoes to t-shirts. Stop by Chaitanya’s to taste their delicious paranthas!

Also read: A 6-hour train journey through the Tamil heartland will bring you to Thanjavur where the famed Brihadesvara Temple is located. Our Thanjavur Travel Guide has a list of the top things to do in this temple town.

EVENING // Evenings are for snacks, aren’t they? And this 2 days in Pune itinerary will take you to the best of Pune’s street food. Try Pune’s famous local dish, the Missal Pav, at Bedekar’s Missal and Tea Stall. Founded in 1948, Bedekar’s serves authentic Puneri missal, which unlike its Kolhapuri cousin, is more sweet and tangy than spicy and hot. Down it with some kokum sherbet or solkadi, a drink made from coconut milk and kokum. A sign posted inside the eatery prohibits patrons, with the curtness familiar of Marathis, from restyling their hair inside! A few metres away is Sujata Mastani where you can try a glass of mastani, a creamy cross between a milkshake and an ice cream mixed with fruits, usually mangoes. Roadside stalls selling bhel, pani puri, dabeli, and vada pav are everywhere; we recommend trying a bit of everything!

For dinner, go to the Durvankur Dining Hall in Sadashiv Peth, a no-frills restaurant serving authentic Maharashtrian fare. Depending on whether you are visiting during the weekday or on the weekend, the Pune thali comes loaded with some or all of these items: bhajis, dahi vada, kadhi, vegetable preparations, roti, bhakri, thalipeeth, dalia khichri, masale bhaat, puris, dhokla, chutneys, and dessert.

Also read: On the other coast, the Arabian Sea coast, is Goa, an erstwhile Portuguese colony. Goa’s capital, Panaji, is a laidback town with neighbourhoods lined with pastel-coloured heritage residences, revered churches, and chic restaurants. Read our 3 days in Panaji guide for a taste of this beautiful town.

If, like us, you are constrained by time, exploring a new city’s gastronomical heritage and cultural leanings is the ideal way to lay a finger on the pulse of the place. If you have more than 2 days in Pune, take it slow. Stroll through Koregaon Park and admire the banyans, spend some time along the Mula-Mutya rivers, visit a temple and watch the locals offering prayers to the deities, and visit the Sinhagad Fort. Located 35 km southwest of Pune, the 2000-year-old fort has been, at various times, occupied by the Koli kings, the Tughlaqs, the Bhonsle Marathas, the Mughals, and finally, the British who conquered it in 1818. Nearby dams, like the Koyna and the Khadakwasla dams, offer lovely day trip opportunities. Both Mahabaleshwar and Lonavla are a few hours drive away from Pune and make for excellent weekend gateways.

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Mohana & Aninda

Mohana and Aninda are travellers and advocates for car-free travel. Two-together is their travel blog where they document their travels to encourage and inspire readers to seek solace in new places, savour local cuisines, and relish both unique and everyday experiences. When they are not travelling, they are actively researching trip ideas and itineraries, obsessing over public transport timetables, reviewing travel budgets, and developing content for their blog. They are currently based in Edinburgh and exploring Scotland and beyond by public transport.

12 responses to “2 Days in Pune: Irani Cafés & Heritage Walks”

  1. madhuonthego Avatar
    madhuonthego

    That’s awesome ,I visited pune 2 years back but ddint get much time to visit all the places. I would love to explore old city someday

  2. Sharyn Avatar
    Sharyn

    i’ve never heard of this place but I am totally impressed. The food looks fabulous.

  3. Jiayi Wang Avatar
    Jiayi Wang

    Love your photos, and the food looks so delicious!! Definitely adding Pune to my India list thanks to you!!

  4. cbyrnem Avatar
    cbyrnem

    Your photos are so gorgeous! I really appreciate the history and contextual explanations that are woven into your posts! I may be going to Mumbai for work, and after reading your guide I will try to add on a trip to Pune. My mouth is watering right now.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Thank you! I haven’t been to Mumbai but there are some excellent Irani cafes there too. Kayani Bakery, Koolar & Co, Cafe Military, Merwan & Co, and Britannia & Co (known for its excellent berry pulao and dhansak) come highly recommended.

  5. Margarida Vasconcelos Avatar
    Margarida Vasconcelos

    Your pictures are great. Do you presets? Thank you

  6. Bidisha Avatar
    Bidisha

    You have actually captured the essence of Pune. Its been a year for me at Mumbai and I have been craving to visit Pune and I have heard many people say, what’s in Pune? But this post makes me want to visit. I am sure once this lockdown ends, I am going to visit Pune for sure. Also, there’s something amazing about the Irani cafes man!!. It’s like walking back in to time. I have visited a quite a few here in Mumbai. Also, what pictures!! They are amazing. Keep clicking more pics. Following you guys on Instagram right away!

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Thanks for your lovely comment, Bidisha! We enjoyed exploring the city but we had to answer questions like “who are you” and “why are you taking photos” too many times asked by locals at street food stalls, random places and like that. It didn’t feel very welcoming but hey! we totally loved the food.

  7. vidadeliya Avatar
    vidadeliya

    This was so interesting!! I didn’t even know Pune existed. And your photos are stunning!

  8. The Spicy Travel Girl Avatar
    The Spicy Travel Girl

    Looks like an amazing place and I hope to visit one day. I’ll be looking forwards so much to the food!

  9. Cherryl Avatar
    Cherryl

    Beautiful photography, and the liver masala sounds interesting – never heard that combination before 😊

  10. periodicadventures Avatar
    periodicadventures

    My great uncle was from Pune. He just passed away earlier this year. I would love to visit his hometown and this is a great itinerary.

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