Once the paradise of the hippies, Vagator today remains largely quiet. Unassuming and serene, its lazy off-season demeanour is reminiscent of post-party slumbers. The Vagator we visited, the Vagator that features in our complete guide is perfect for the traveller seeking solace, perfect for the couple looking for slow winding afternoons and bluesy punch-drunk nights, and perfect for the family seeking some quiet time together. The trance parties of the 80s have gone undercover now. A few “secret” moonlit rave parties take place once in a while but you have to be on the circuit for the know-how.

More domestic tourists have started arriving in Vagator which was once the haunt of westerners. There are two beaches in Vagator: Big Vagator or the main beach which has to bear the brunt of the tourist buses that unload selfie-stick wielding hoards in the afternoon. It is not safe for swimming because it is studded with wave-smoothed rocky outcrops. While these flat, rocky surfaces can be perfect for lounging in other seasons, in the monsoon we recommend against climbing them because they can be slippery and the currents below are strong enough to tear you off your perch. The beach is also the rambling place for pye-dogs. For a more peaceful time, head south to Little Vagator or Ozran. Backed by red laterite cliffs and thick palm groves, this strip of three connected coves regularly features as one of Goa’s most coveted landscapes. On the southernmost is a carved face of Shiva staring skywards. In the high season, these beaches are full of shacks blaring trance & EDM. For reasons we haven’t yet deciphered, you can spot sizeable herds of stray cows here. Be warned that a rather steep descent leads to these coves. To the northeast of Vagator, on the other side of Chapora Fort, is the sleepy hamlet of Chapora which continues to be the haunt of hippies and smokers and wears a distinct scent of charas on its briny breath.

We visited during the monsoon and were treated to breath-taking views of the Arabian Sea. The waves left their footprints as delicate, braided patterns on the black sand. Towering masses of cumulonimbus poured their souls on the bluish-green waters and as the storm approached the coastline, it tore through the coconut and palm trees. On the clifftop, tourists huddled in makeshift stalls, slurping piping hot Maggi & sipping cups of cha: both highly desirable after getting rained on. While the off-season brings to the traveller the best of natural beauty and offers plenty of space for soul-searching and contemplation, it doesn’t offer as much to do, activity-wise. The shacks were shut and so were the flea markets.

Without the usual interruptions, your stay in Vagator becomes a tradeoff between your perceptions of North Goan hippy headiness & the unscathed rural beauty of Goa that is seldom portrayed in popular media. We are grateful we ended up being battered by the rain on the clifftop. We are grateful to have spent quiet, unhurried hours together. Far from the noisy, breathless marathon of day-to-day life, we got a chance to rediscover our relationship.

A lonely dog contemplates life's unanswered questions
A lonely dog contemplates life’s unanswered questions

How to Reach Vagator

From Panaji, ride the express shuttle to Mapusa (INR 15) and then take a local bus to Vagator via Anjuna (INR 20). The total journey takes about an hour. Alternately, you can book a cab or bike.

If travelling from Vasco da Gama station in Madgaon or from Goa International airport, take an express bus to Panaji and onwards to Vagator via Mapusa. There are no direct buses.

When to Visit Vagator

Vagator is a year-round destination. The high season runs from November to March when tourists from all over the world pour into Goa. The night markets also run during this time.

Not many tourists come in the monsoon and therefore it is quieter. Goa transforms into a lush paradise! If you don’t mind the incessant rain and muddy roads, we suggest visiting in the monsoon. Hotel prices are low and you can snag a terrific deal!

Things to Do in Vagator

Our travel guide to Vagator covers all the amazing things you can do in and around this small beach town. Because Anjuna and Calangute tend to be busier, we suggest staying in Vagator and exploring the nearby towns. A scooter is a must in this part of the state!

Hike to Chapora Fort

Made famous by the movie, Dil Chahta Hai, this 17th-century Portuguese fort is the prime attraction for Indian tourists in Vagator and tops our complete guide to Vagator. An easy hike will lead you from the main market all the way through the ruins of the fort and to a viewpoint overlooking the sea. In the dry season, you can hike all the way down to the coast and onwards to the main beach. In the monsoon, the fort’s forgotten floor is a luxuriant carpet. Loud selfie-clicking youngsters fill the ramparts and despite the breeze and the unobtrusive views, it can get annoying after a while. The fort closes at 5 pm and the guard won’t allow you in even if you are late by a few minutes. Also, keep in mind that the climb to the fort can get slippery and muddy after a shower so be sure you are wearing the right footwear.

Also read: Assagao, a village less than 10 km from Vagator, has some of the best eateries in Goa. Check out Field Notes: Assagao, Goa to find out more about this place.

Chapora Fort
Chapora Fort
Entrance to the Chapora Fort
Entrance to Chapora Fort

Bike to Anjuna Flea Market

Originally founded by joint-smoking hippies as a way to fund their nomadic lifestyle, the weekly Anjuna Flea Market has reached cult-status for visitors. Unfortunately, we missed it but we hear that there are stalls selling handicrafts from all parts of India. Expats also set up shops selling handmade goods like necklaces, stationery, bags, bikinis, etc. It is a great place not only to shop and bargain but also to network. If the loud music gets on your nerves, take a break and chug a chilled beer at one of the many shacks. It is held every Wednesday from mid-November to April.

Experience the Arpora Night Flea Market

Held every Saturday night from end-December to April, the Arpora Night Market is a bustling market featuring both local and foreign traders who sell everything from exotic spices to Christmas baubles. On the centre stage, dancers gyrate to music, contortionists exhibit their tricks, bands play their music, DJs belt out the season’s hits and often in between Bollywood and alternate Rock, you can experience little-known musical snippets from various parts of the globe. Countless food stalls featuring global cuisine is part of the fun. The number of languages you can hear being spoken at these flea markets is astonishing. It is indeed a pulsing, ecstatic miniature of the world! The atmosphere is electric and security is heavy. If you are planning to drive down the highway, be warned that it is absolutely choked on market nights.

Stock up on Grocery at Mapusa’s Local Market

Held on Fridays, the Mapusa (pronounced: map-sa) local market is a typical example of rural Indian haats. We have a soft spot for farmers markets and felt compelled to include Mapusa’s local market in our guide to Vagator. It is loud and chaotic but it is such an important event that the town of Mapusa derives its name from it. In Konkani, map is measure and sa is “fill up” in reference to the trade of spice and locally-grown fruits. Vendors descend from Bardez and Tiswadi to sell fruits, spices, pottery, jewellery, carpets and cured meats. A dedicated hunt could also yield antiques and souvenirs. Must-buys are chouriços, seedless tamarinds, Goan sweets, and feni.

Visit the Siolim Fish Market

A must visit for food lovers, believers of farm-to-table philosophy, and photographers, the Siolim Fish Market is the best place to get your haul of snappers, lobsters, crabs, shrimps, bangda, modso, and every other type of fresh seafood you’re craving. It’s located near the old jetty and is accessible by bike. We are not sure about bus routes.

Walk/Run along the Coastline

An early morning walk/run along Vagator’s golden strip of coastline could be the relaxant you are looking for. With the silky breeze blowing through your hair and brushing your skin, what more could you ask for? Throw in a yoga session on the cliff and you couldn’t have a better start to your day.

Be cautious when you spot a red flag on the beach
A red flag cautions against strong currents
Dramatic shades of the Arabian Sea
Dramatic shades of the Arabian Sea

Party the Night

No guide to Vagator is complete without a section on nightlife. If you are the rave-by-moonlight kind, you will need to dig deeper in Vagator’s hippy past. Otherwise, buy a crate of beer and party the night with your hostel-mates. Vagator also has a number of clubs. Scroll down to know your options.

Vagator Beach
Vagator Beach

Where to Stay in Vagator

While we prefer staying in hostels when travelling alone, we found that it is more cost-effective to book a private room in a locally run guesthouse, BnB, or homestay when travelling together in India. However, moral policing seems to be on the rise in India and we weren’t confident of finding budget accommodation without the hassle and thus ended up booking a private double at Jungle by The Hostel Crowd. It was a nice, comfortable stay but we also overshot our budget. We suggest walking around, looking at and weighing different options before booking instead of just booking online because many of these small, budget places do not advertise online.

Jungle by The Hostel Crowd

The best place to chill in Vagator! Network with fellow travellers as you make breakfast in the kitchen (and spot birds as they flit from branch to branch in the surrounding wilderness) or chill in the cosy dining area. The vibe is positive plus laid-back and the staff is incredible! Power-cuts maybe a problem, especially in the monsoons but you can sit in candlelight in the sitting area upstairs and hear the waves crashing in the distant. They also have privates.

Pappi Chulo

If you are here to party, book a room at the brightly graffiti-ed Pappi Chulo. They have a bar in the garden and organize movie nights. The dorms have different themes. They have privates too.

Dreams Hostel

DJ Ravi, backpacker and owner, believes in the philosophy of “art, music and wellness” and promotes Dreams Hostel as a place for creatives who want to disconnect a bit from Vagator’s (in)famous party crowds and be closer to nature. The property sits within a nurtured garden and there are nooks to write or reflect.

Bunkker

A quirky hostel built entirely out of shipping containers could be your temporary home in Vagator! All units are air-conditioned and the property is pet-friendly.

OYO Rooms and Airbnb have some great rentals in Goa. If travelling with a group of 4 or more, we suggest booking a villa on Airbnb.

Where to Eat in Vagator

Tintin

We like drawing attention to eateries that specialise in local cuisine in our guides and Tintin is one of them. Plonk yourself on the comfy seating and enjoy a meal of traditional Goan curries while the sea makes music in the background.

Thalassa

With an all-white decor and menu full of Greek delicacies, Thalassa is the prime attraction for foodies who visit Vagator. Book a table and enjoy the sunset over a leisurely meal. Prices are on the steeper side.

Mango Tree

Smack in the middle of Vagator, Mango Tree serves many cuisines and stays open late. Opt for the fish curry with rice and dig in with a side of upbeat music. The food is nothing out of the ordinary and prices are reasonable.

Also read: Find out about our favorite places to eat in Panaji on Where to Eat in Panaji.

Fish Curry & Rice at the Mango Tree
Fish curry & rice at the Mango Tree

Anand

Anand is located on the road to Siolim and is known for serving authentic Goan curries.

Bean Me Up

They are known for their vegan and organic selections. They also have a few rooms that they rent out. Please note that they aren’t open all year round.

Yoga Centres in Vagator

Ashtanga Yoga Goa

Lead by a Finnish instructor, Ashtanga Yoga Goa has centres in Mysore and Vagator. Check their website for details on the schedule.

Swan Yoga Retreat

Located in Assagao, they have drop-in sessions and hold classes on Hatha and Sivananda Yoga. They also have meditation classes.

Jungle by The Hostel Crowd and Bean Me Up organize weekly yoga classes.

Where to Party in Vagator

Hill Top

A legendary location in Goa’s psy-trance circuit and a must in all guides to Vagator, Hill Top hosts Friday night parties from 6 pm with international DJs playing Goan psy-trance. Special events are held on Christmas and New Year’s Eve.

Waters

Overlooking the rocky cliffs of Vagator, Waters is the venue for a popular Techno party on Friday nights.

Club Cabana

Popular for their Wednesday Ladies night (free entry and unlimited drinks for ladies!), Club Cabana is one of Goa’s best nightclubs. It is located on Arpora Hill and offers bedazzling views of the night skies.

Vagator Complete Guide

What are your thoughts on our travel guide to Vagator? Did we miss your favourite thing to do in this lovely seaside town? Share in the comments section below. 


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Mohana & Aninda

Mohana and Aninda are travellers and advocates for car-free travel. Two-together is their travel blog where they document their travels to encourage and inspire readers to seek solace in new places, savour local cuisines, and relish both unique and everyday experiences. When they are not travelling, they are actively researching trip ideas and itineraries, obsessing over public transport timetables, reviewing travel budgets, and developing content for their blog. They are currently based in Edinburgh and exploring Scotland and beyond by public transport.

21 responses to “The Complete Guide to Vagator”

  1. Debanjan Ray Avatar
    Debanjan Ray

    always a delight to read your article..loved the zeal and details with which you guys penned this article..keep posting and do post more snaps ( i especially have a fascination for flea markets and stuffs !!).. 🙂

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thanks, Debanjan da! We are planning to get a camera over Thanksgiving and then slowly start taking more photographs.

  2. শাশ্বত Avatar
    শাশ্বত

    বেশ সুন্দর. কয়েকটি মনোরম ছবি পেলে বেশি ভাল লাগত।

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Amader dujon’er phone’i je opurbo chobi othe aar bolish na! Kintu hobe hobe…chobi ashche soon.

  3. Avirup Banerjee Avatar
    Avirup Banerjee

    Good one brother. Keep writing, keep rolling.

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      We’d love to see you back! Subscribe for email updates.

  4. Ankan Avatar
    Ankan

    You both had such great time in Goa. I love what you wrote. The details at the end on places to stay, food, vehicles, how to reach…were very informative.
    Keep writing more and why not write on your Seattle and Bangalore trips as well? You went to so many places in Bangalore in a span of two days!

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Seattle’s up! We’re planning more posts about our Bangalore trip.

  5. ইঙ্গিত দাস Avatar
    ইঙ্গিত দাস

    বেশ ভালো লিখেছিস রে….. গোয়া যাচ্ছি খুব শিগগিরই… অবশ্যই এটাকে গাইড হিসেবে নিয়ে যাবো

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thank you, Ingit. We hope our guide will be of some help to you. Let me know if you stumble across a must-visit place and we will add it to the list.

  6. ianandmar Avatar
    ianandmar

    Particularly excited to taste the local dishes! 🙂 Nice article!

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thanks! 🙂

  7. Joanna Avatar
    Joanna

    Vagator looks like a wonderful destination. I would like to visit sometimes.

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      It is beautiful. We visited in the off-season, during the monsoons, and it was a treat to watch rain clouds gathering on the horizon.

  8. TheWickedSoul Avatar
    TheWickedSoul

    I have been to Goa twice and enjoyed it more in Monsoon. And absolutely love the view from Chapora Fort 🙂

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      The monsoons are the best time to visit Goa! Don’t you think so? I’d love to go back and stay away from the beaches and just explore the hinterland.

  9. Janine DeVault Avatar
    Janine DeVault

    This coastline looks so amazing! I would love to explore it! Thanks for such helpful info.

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thanks!

  10. Kaspars Avatar
    Kaspars

    Thank you for good tips! Looks like I would need to return to Vagator during the season, because during the monsoon, when I was there first and only time, this place was super quiet.

  11. siri Avatar
    siri

    This coastline looks so amazing! I would love to explore it! The monsoons are the best time to visit Goa! And absolutely love the view from chapora fort.

  12. Nadine Avatar
    Nadine

    I want to go here so much. Since i was a teenager. Would you recommend travel with young kids?

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