Some of my favourite things in all of existence are comic books, films, photographs, and surrealistic art. The marriage of storytelling and visual cues that carry forward a narrative is something that catches my attention every single time. Therefore, when Debanjan came up with these incredible images from our trip to understand more about life in Varanasi, I knew I had to make an attempt at reconstructing a pastiche narrative of things that are visible and things that can be imagined.

I relate the bylanes of Varanasi with the serpentine underground world of the Minotaur’s chambers, or something that came out of Pan’s Labyrinth. A secret world where life flows on its own will; where we are pawns and destiny plays us off against each other. Every time you walk along the narrow lanes and take in the heady atmosphere, you will be transported, out of time and place, into the magic of mythic Varanasi.

Emerge outside with your head held high and suddenly you come face to face with forlorn structures that still hold on to the glories of yesteryears. It is hard not to romanticize such architecture where the subdued opulence still manages to shine through years of neglect and debris. It is hard not to imagine what a full moon night could do to your heart if only your loved one graced those windows.

Walk with me to the ghats to explore a different façade of life in Varanasi. While you do, try to take in the juxtaposition of the old and new, living side by side. When obstacles come in front of you, you adapt, evolve, and overcome. Varanasi, thousands of years old, has managed to adapt to the changing socio-political landscape, the changing gender equations, and the skewed power game that is played in the real world Kashi. Yet it has managed to hold on to the inner mystic yogi that it is in its old sacred heart.

Varanasi has always been a large, bustling melting pot of cultures, beliefs, and customs that thrives on the sheer living force of travellers, tourists, and inhabitants of the city. If you are here for the first time, it is easy to get overwhelmed by the myriad variation weaved into the fabric of the morning ritual, the ganga-snan.

But I implore you to take a closer look. Look at the microcosm that is hidden underneath the cursory glance. Some who come here are compelled by choice, either to make a living or to take part in some age-old custom that promises them health or wealth. But some, the rare ones, like the man holding his child, are just happy to be here, present in the holy land of Varanasi.

Walk with me to the ends of the ghat where the crowd thins out and you are face to face with the river, the silent mother that protects and nourishes the civilization you belong to. Stay back as the hustle and bustle around you dies out and you are left for some quiet contemplation. And if you are not the contemplative kind, then this is the best place to seek out a bit of charas, bhang, or ganja (whatever be your favourite poison) from the sadhus and yogis, your fellow travellers of life and time.

Once adequately high (on philosophy and contemplation, of course), bear with me and try to spot those little boats that are floating on the river and are very eager to take you out on an aquatic stroll. Haggle a bit and negotiate a full tour of the ghats of Varanasi. You may have had ferry tours before, but this will be something that you have not anticipated yet.

This boat ride is an experience not to be missed. An opportunity, where you can still be in Varanasi but can dramatically change your perspective by taking yourself out of the land and looking at this place from the outside, is to be savoured. Preferably slowly. Follow the people and wander with your eyes as the river lulls you into a deeper trance.

As you return to the folds of this ancient city one more time, notice how quickly it calls you in. A gaping mouth that invites you inside into an anachronism. There are always countless stories waiting to be found inside. A gamut of colours, sights, and smells that mesh together in want of interpretation. Come inside, and write your own story, the city whispers in your ears.

And now we have come back full circle. Inside the narrow and winding bylanes of Kashi from where we had started our journey. Does it look different now? Is it a different lane? Is this a different angle? you ask yourself. But does it matter? Deep inside, you know the truth. The city has merely shapeshifted around you as it plays with your senses again. It is different now but it is always itself. Ever constant, mythic, a land to be discovered a thousand times over.

Photographs by Debanjan Ray. 


Have you visited Varanasi? What stories did you bring back?

Varanasi Photo Essay

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Mohana & Aninda

Mohana and Aninda are travellers and advocates for car-free travel. Two-together is their travel blog where they document their travels to encourage and inspire readers to seek solace in new places, savour local cuisines, and relish both unique and everyday experiences. When they are not travelling, they are actively researching trip ideas and itineraries, obsessing over public transport timetables, reviewing travel budgets, and developing content for their blog. They are currently based in Edinburgh and exploring Scotland and beyond by public transport.

26 responses to “Varanasi: A Photo Essay”

  1. Debanjan Ray Avatar
    Debanjan Ray

    I am sure this is the best narration i have ever read regarding Varanasi..keeps getting better and better !! 🙂

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thank you so much for sharing your photographs!

  2. Anirban sarker Avatar
    Anirban sarker

    Well i haven’t been to varanasi till now unfortunately. But after reading this narration it feels like i was just there yesterday. You guys are getting better day by day. Keep it up😃

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thank you, Anirban! We urge you to visit Varanasi…the old city is unlike any city in the world. Standing on the ghats and realizing that there were people standing there some 2000 years ago is a feeling that cannot be expressed in words.

  3. Amit Gayal Avatar
    Amit Gayal

    Well drafted and presented picture of Varanasi. Seeking solitude in mob…visit Varanasi. Nice work guys

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thanks, Amit! Have you been to Varanasi?

  4. Samia hasan Avatar
    Samia hasan

    Hey.. read the narration twice .. lived each word .. great work.. keep going better ..

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thank you, Samia!

  5. Trail-stained Fingers Avatar
    Trail-stained Fingers

    Beautiful. We’re yet to visit Varanasi – hopefully soon, along with the Taj Mahal 🙂

  6. ophelieharnichard Avatar
    ophelieharnichard

    Great photos! Storytelling is what makes photography so interesting.

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thank you!! We are glad that you liked the photos & the stories behind them 🙂

  7. Ana Martínez Avatar
    Ana Martínez

    amazing pictures!

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thank you, Ana!

  8. Lauren Pears Avatar
    Lauren Pears

    What a fantastic article! Beautiful photos and narrative. It captures Varanasi perfectly.

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      We are happy to know that we have been, to some extent, able to capture the mystical essence of Varanasi through our words and photographs! 🙂

  9. Travelquartz Avatar
    Travelquartz

    Absolutely stunning write up and photos

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thanks!

  10. damecacao Avatar
    damecacao

    This is beautiful. I love your writing style– if you wrote a book of experiences like this, I would buy it. Seriously gorgeous piece of writing!

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      You’re so kind! Thank you so much!

  11. Erin Mushaway Avatar
    Erin Mushaway

    These photos are stunning!! I’d love to go to India and just spend days taking photos, the street photography you have here is so great!

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      India is the perfect place for street photography. There is so much happening, such a lot of eccentricities and poignant moments at every instance. Thanks for stopping by, Erin!

  12. Clazz - An Orcadian Abroad Avatar
    Clazz – An Orcadian Abroad

    I love your writing style! Really brings it to life. 🙂

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thanks, Clazz!

  13. Paula Martinelli Avatar
    Paula Martinelli

    Incredible photography….so inspiring!

  14. wingedream Avatar
    wingedream

    enjoyed the sights ,smells,sounds.Not banal at all as the words i just wrote.Fresh and diverse and yet so personal.Thanks for this lttle photo journey.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Thank you for your kind words!

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