The idyllic Uttarey valley is one of Sikkim’s best-kept secrets. No more than a clutch of houses and homestays shadowed by tall, wooded mountains at the edge of the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary, Uttarey caters to trekking enthusiasts heading to the Singali-La top and Phoktey Dara that offer a psychedelic vista of some of the world’s tallest peaks. But Uttarey isn’t all about trekking; it’s a beautiful escape from touristy Pelling and promises days full of easy walks, Nepali food, and sweet mountain air. Read our Uttarey travel guide to find out more.
UTTAREY, SIKKIM / INDIA
Tucked in the densely forested mountains in the far west of Sikkim is Uttarey. Known primarily as a trekking base into the wild west of Sikkim— the Singalila and Phoktey Dara treks start here— Uttarey offers a quiet respite from touristy Pelling. The small settlement, with its clutch of colourful houses, offers a glimpse of rural Sikkimese life: jars of salted dalle khursani chillies and fermented vegetables share space with potted succulents on the verandah; women leave radishes and ears of corn to dry in the mellow mountain sun; neighbours chat over their knitting as dogs doze in the sun and chickens scratch in the yard. Sometimes a Nepali song floats out through the open windows; sometimes the mouth-watering aroma of food being cooked. The small market has a few two- or three-storied buildings that serve as guest houses, a barber’s shop, a liquor store, some grocery stores, and a few eateries. Across the street is the not-so-pretty Titanic Cafe, a massive and somewhat ugly boat-shaped structure that houses a cafe and shops selling local handicrafts and winter wear during the trekking season. In spring, dollops of rhododendrons in all shades of pink, red, and white paint the mountains surrounding Uttarey. Wild orchids put on a show, and wildflowers peep amidst the fronds and foliage. Many species of Himalayan birds frequent the woods and fields here. Amble around or go on guided hikes, or simply dig into wholesome local fare at your homestay.
When to Visit Uttarey
The weather is pleasant year-round except for the monsoons from June to early-September when the roads are prone to landslides. To see the rhododendrons, arrive in the spring and go on a trek in the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary. They are at their glorious best in April. The Singali-La national park is home to rare orchids; most of them bloom in spring and early summer. Winter, though chilly with temperatures dipping to zero, promises the best views of the mountains from Phoktey Dara and the Singali-La top.
How to Reach Uttarey
Shared jeeps from Siliguri to Uttarey are available, though far and few. You can ride a jeep to Jorethang or Pelling, then get a shared taxi to Uttarey. The journey can take anywhere between 6 to 7 hours.
Also read: Commanding unparalleled views of the Kanchenjunga is Rinchenpong. Plan a trip to this offbeat hill town in Sikkim using our Rinchenpong, Sikkim, Travel Guide.
Things to Do in Uttarey
Offer Prayers at the Kagyu Gompa and Yuma Temple
A 20 min hike from the Uttarey gate/Titanic Café will bring you to the Kagyu Gompa. Dating back to the early 1700s, it is one of Sikkim’s oldest monasteries. Nearby is the Yuma Temple. The hike is easy with some steep stretches and the footpath threads through dense forest. Near the top is a meadow with lovely views of the surrounding ranges. In the late afternoon when we visited, the last rays of the sun were lighting the tops of the peaks and painting a magical scenery. Continue on the road till you reach an abandoned building near the top. A narrow footpath behind the building will bring you to the gompa.
Hike to Mainebas Waterfalls, Uttarey
4.5 km from Uttarey is the gorgeous Mainebas Falls. The hike goes past plantations of cardamom and the trout breeding centre, and through a mixed forest of rhododendron and alder. You have to cross a sparkling mountain stream in two places; the wood bridges are rickety. Birdsong and the sound of water accompanies you all the way. The trail is well-marked and paved, except for the last 500 m where the trail is a narrow path clinging to the mountainside. Most of the hike is easy, except for a few slightly steep sections that knocked the breath off our unfit bodies. This route is part of the Phoktey Dara and the Singali-La top trekking trail. If you start around 9 am after breakfast, you should be able to return by 2:30 pm. Guides charge INR 800.
See the Sunrise from the Tenzing Hillary Memorial Park
This 2015 addition to Uttarey is a local park that commemorates the first summit of Mount Everest. There are statues of Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary in the park. On clear mornings, you can see the Kanchenjunga from here. Rest awhile, hike in the surrounding woods, or stop by the local villages on the way. Be warned that the road to the park is in bad shape.
Tour the Trout Breeding Centre
Not much to see here except the lifecycle of the trout. There are four to five tanks containing trout of different ages; the ones in the last one are large! Check if you can avail a commentary on these fishes and the work done by the breeding centre.
Visit the Singshore Bridge
Asia’s second-highest suspension bridge hangs over a sparkling stream gushing along a deep gorge. It connects Dentam– home to the Alpine cheese factory– with Uttarey and offers lovely views of the surrounding mountainside. Only small vehicles are allowed to pass, one vehicle at a time, over the bridge.
Eat the local food
At our homestay, our host treated us to clove-scented tea that warmed our hearts! No milk, no sugar, just black tea with cloves. Surprisingly good! Like everywhere else in rural Sikkim, food is straight from the farm to the table. You can see fields of rai saag, cauliflower, spring onion, sweet peas, and mustard in the winter. Order the Nepali khana and dig into mouth-numbing Nepali aloo dum, chicken curry, local lentils, vegetables, and stir-fried leafy greens. And of course, some momos with a bowl of garlic-laced soup.
Also read: Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim, has some of the state’s best restaurants. Find out about the best places to eat in Gangtok from our post.
Treks from Uttarey
Trekking permits are absolutely necessary to trek in this region. Foreigners might require additional permits. Contact your homestay and trek organisers for help.
Singali-La Trek
This high-altitude difficult trek is popular with trekkers from around the world. The 9-day trek starts at Uttarey and ends at Yuksom and goes via Chiwabhanjyang, Dhor, Sikkim Megu, Dafey Bhir, Gomathang, Panding, Dzongri, and Tsoka. You can spot Everest on this trail!
Phoktay Dara Trek
Phoktay Dara via Mainebas Falls, Chiwabhanjyang Pass, and Kalijhar is one of the more popular trails from Uttarey. Rhododendrons and magnolias adorn this trail in spring. Expect magnificent views of the Kanchenjunga range on this trek. 2 km from Phoktay Dara is the Singali-La top.
TIP: The other route to Phoktey Dara starts from Okhrey and goes through Hilley and onwards via Barsey, Joributey, and Kalijhar, and ends at Uttarey. Most of this route lies within the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary and promises better views than the route starting from Uttarey. Kipepeo, a sustainable trekking agency located in Northeast India, organizes the Everest Singalila trek on this route.
Uttarey-Sandakphu Round Trek
This little-known trail starts from Uttarey and runs through the Singalila National Park and Kanchendzonga Biosphere Reserve to Sandakphu and onwards to Maneybhanjan near Darjeeling in West Bengal. For more details, read Michelle’s experience of completing this trek.
Where to Stay in Uttarey
Uttarey has a number of homestays and lodges that cater mostly to trekkers.
Sherpa Homestay is tucked in a local neighbourhood at the end of Uttarey. It’s a basic, no-frills homestay that promises clean rooms, and a common courtyard that opens on the family’s kitchen garden with its neat rows of seasonal produce, hot water, and delicious food. Sherpa Ji, the owner, owns a trekking company and can provide guides and equipment for treks starting from Uttarey.
Monal Homestay is also recommended by travellers and trekkers.
Also read: In the idyllic village of Darap, Shiva Gurung and his family run a lovely homestay. Read our post on the Daragaon Village Retreat, Darap to find out more.
Responsible Travel in India: Uttarey Travel Guide
Trust us, it’s not hard!
- Do not buy plastic water bottles. Your homestay will provide filtered drinking water (it’s safe, trust us!). Carry a refillable bottle and fill it whenever you need it.
- Do not litter. If you are trekking, carry your waste back and dispose of it responsibly.
- Drink responsibly. Uttarey, being a trekking base, often sees groups of young, enthusiastic trekkers who party late. There was a drunken brawl at our homestay in the middle of the night and the owners had to be woken up to resolve it!
- Plastic bags have been banned in Sikkim. If you are carrying any, do not dispose of them unmindfully.
- Smoking in public is prohibited in Sikkim.
- Ask before you photograph locals. It’s not respectful to thrust your camera lens into someone’s face.
- Water crisis is a common problem all over India. Do not waste water.
Also read: Wondering where to go next? Read our Complete West Sikkim Travel Guide to find out about more places to visit and things to do in West Sikkim.
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