This leafy little Serbian town near the Hungarian border is home to some of Europe’s most beautiful Art Nouveau buildings. There are many things to do in Subotica besides admiring the stunning architecture.
Subotica | Serbia
Stepping off the bus in Subotica, a sense of calm washes over me. Is it the elegant Art Nouveau architecture lining the streets, each building a masterpiece waiting to be explored? Or maybe it’s the wide, expansive streets, shaded by trees just bursting with the first whispers of spring. Perhaps it’s even the distant melody, a haunting tune played on an exotic string instrument by a street musician. Subotica unfolds like a delicate mystery – quiet, charming, and undeniably beautiful. Serenity seems to be an oft-found emotion in Subotica.
My heart stirs with anticipation for the experiences that await. Perhaps a stroll down Korzo, the pedestrian-only main street, a quintessential Subotica adventure. I can already picture myself indulging in a pastry at a bustling cafe, soaking up the atmosphere as the world goes by. A quiet but burgeoning food scene whispers of a delightful dance between traditional recipes and modern hospitality, a waltz I’m eager to join! Marvelling at the architecture and visiting the city’s monuments will be a captivating prelude. And for a touch of whimsy, I can even savour fries at the world’s only Art Nouveau McDonald’s – a delightfully quirky note in Subotica’s symphony. The city beckons us like a whispered promise – let’s explore its enchanting melody together.
Located in the autonomous province of Vojvodina in the north of Serbia, Subotica was once home to the famous and wealthy of the Austro-Hungarian empire. The town grew under their patronage and magnificent buildings soon lined the leafy streets. Human forms, gargoyles, terracotta sculptures, floral designs, and wrought-iron work adorn every corner. Bright shades of yellow and red, pastel pinks and greens are everywhere. Subotica’s grandeur is well-preserved and you can follow our list of things to do in Subotica to experience this glorious little town.
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Things to Do in Subotica
Most of the things to do in Subotica revolve around its resplendent Art Nouveau architecture but there are options for outdoorsy types too.
Marvel at Subotica’s Art Nouveau Buildings
Subotica is known for its grandeur. Stunning art nouveau buildings built during the time of the Austro-Hungarian empire stand tall on either side of Korzo, the town’s main pedestrian street. Colourful bricks, sculptures, and decorative patterns adorn the buildings. Look up to see squirrels and human faces, plant motifs and wavy forms, and various other eye-catching designs. Some of the buildings feature brightly coloured Zsolnay ceramic tiles. The entire town centre is a feast for the eyes! Some of the more interesting buildings are the neoclassical National Theatre, the Savings Bank, the National Theatre, the tenement houses, and the Dušan Stojković palace.
TIP: Pop into the Mcdonald’s to admire its gorgeous staircase and beautiful stained glass art nouveau interiors.
Visit Subotica Synagogue
Walking into Subotica’s Synagogue is like walking into a Wes Anderson movie. The design emerged from a proposal by Hungarian architects, Marcell Komor and Deszo Jakab, in an 1899 competition for a new synagogue in Szeged. Their proposal finished second, but Subotica’s Jewish community selected it for the synagogue they were planning to build. Pastel-coloured walls decorated with traditional symbols and motifs from Hungarian folklore adorn the place. On the external facade, you can see floral ornaments in the shape of peacock plumage, roses and lilies. Made of terracotta, they were manufactured at the Zsolnay factory. The synagogue is open from 10 am to 6 pm and has a 250 RSD ticket (April 2024). If you can visit just one place in Subotica, make sure it is this. Words and photographs cannot do justice to how magical it is, how sublime. You must see it to believe it! We were left gaping at every little detail, every motif that adorns the walls.
Visit Raichle Palace
Perhaps the most photographed building in Subotica is the Raichle Palace. Constructed in 1904 as a family palace for the Serbian-Hungarian architect Ferenc Raichle, it currently houses the Modern Art Gallery. Hungarian folklore motifs, waves and curves decorate the building. The heart motif appears throughout the building. Made of ceramics, Murano mosaic, wrought iron, carved wood and other materials, hearts appear on the balcony railings, staircases, walls, and floors. Overlooking the back garden, there used to be a glasshouse featuring glass prisms that are no longer there. Sadly, four years after Raichle moved in, he went bankrupt and his possessions were sold at an auction. You can see a few pieces inside the building.
Visit Subotica’s Churches
The Serbian Orthodox Church and the Cathedral of St. Avila of Teresa are two of Subotica’s most important churches. The cathedral was closed for essential repairs when we visited but we spent some time admiring the beautiful iconostasis in the orthodox church. There was an elderly gentleman there who encouraged us to take photos inside the church and was delighted to hear that we were from India. Because he spoke no English, at first we were confused as we are used to rules in India where most places of religious worship don’t allow photography, so we thanked him and made to leave, but he insisted that he come with us inside the church and gestured for us to photograph the beautiful interiors.
Spend Some Time at the City Museum
The City Museum is in the Dömötör family house located near the synagogue. Built in the style of Darmstadt Art Nouveau, the museum houses artefacts relating to local history and art.
OFFBEAT SUBOTICA ATTRACTION: If you are interested in ceramics, don’t miss the Porcelain Museum where you can see porcelain artefacts over 200 years old.
Tour the City Hall
The City Hall of Subotica dominates the town centre. Designed in 1912 by Komor and Jakab, this lavishly decorated building features sixteen exquisite stained glass windows, Zsolnay tiles, vaulted ceilings, pattered arches, romantic wallpapers, and a plethora of Hungarian art nouveau motifs from stylized flowers to hearts made of ceramics, wrought iron, and wood. The building is a functional office space and houses the local government but you can book a guided tour to see the interiors and also visit the observation deck that gives you a view over the rooftops of Subotica. We missed the tour but spent some time admiring and photographing the building. It is indeed magnificent!
Visit Palić Lake & Tour Wineries
Close to Subotica, is the little town of Palić known for a lake of the same name. It is popular with locals on weekends and is a lovely spot to spend a few hours in the countryside, amongst vineyards and wineries. The 1 km promenade that skirts the lake goes past almost all the main attractions in Palić. Don’t forget to visit the Post Office to admire its fairytale-esque facade adorned with lace-like carvings.
There are several wineries around Lake Palić. The Zvonko Bogdan Winery is one of the more well-known wineries in the region. Their tasting tours are popular amongst locals and visitors alike. If you do not have time to visit any of the wineries, Zvonko Bogdan has two shops in Subotica where you can shop for locally produced vintages. The area is also known for its farmhouse restaurants, called Salaš, where you can taste seasonal local produce and Vojvodina specialities.
Taste some Serbian Food
Hungarian influence is visible in the local food of Subotica and you can eat dishes such as Schnitzel and Goulash here besides Serbian food such as Ćevapi or Pljeskavica. Dine at Bates or Gurinovic to get a taste of popular local food. We had lunch at Bates where we ordered Pork Medallions with Mushrooms and Breaded Chicken Schnitzel and both were delicious. Portions are large and the meat is top notch! Though not traditional, another lovely place to eat in Subotica is Boss Cafe. Located behind Raichle Palace, Boss Cafe has expansive outdoor seating that is perfect on sunny days. We spent some time here with coffee and cocktails. If you have a sweet tooth, don’t miss the ice cream at Pelivan’s, a local institution that is over a hundred years old.
How to Reach Subotica by Public Transport
Subotica can be easily reached by buses from Belgrade and Novi Sad.
BY BUS / Buses are available from both Novi Sad and Belgrade. Subotica is 1.5 hours from Novi Sad and 3 hours from Belgrade. You can book tickets in advance on Omio or book at the bus station.
BY TRAIN / As of April 2024, trains from Belgrade to Subotica are suspended as tracks are upgraded for high-speed trains. Trains terminate at Novi Sad now.
How Many Days Should I Spend in Subotica
There are not many things to do in Subotica but if, like us, you enjoy admiring opulent buildings and take an interest in architecture, we recommend that you spend at least a day. Wandering the leafy streets of Subotica and admiring the gorgeousness of the architecture brought us so much joy!
However, if you are on a very tight schedule but would absolutely like to see the grandeur of this Art Nouveau wonderland, we recommend booking a tour from Belgrade.
Where to Stay in Subotica
We stayed at Center Apartment Dunja right next to the City Hall. It was a no-frills studio apartment with a furnished kitchen and an en-suite bathroom. Because of its location, all the main attractions are within walking distance. We highly recommend this place for your stay in Subotica. Rates are very reasonable. The owner is a lovely local lady whom you could ask for recommendations. Note that payment is by cash.
There are several apartments in the city centre but if you would rather stay at a hotel, Hotel Forum Garni is a good choice.
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