Luss is undoubtedly one of Scotland’s prettiest villages. The shimmering waters of Loch Lomond and picturesque cottages set against a backdrop of wooded hills make Luss a must-visit. Exploring the conservation village, going on a Loch Lomond cruise, and nature walks are some of the best things to do in Luss.
Luss | Scotland
Finally, we were on the bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond and the drizzle was turning into pelting shards of cold rain. We didn’t see a single sliver of the sun the entire time we were staying at the Luss campsite in Luss. Dark rain clouds, drizzle, and pouring rain are what we had for company on this trip, our first camping trip ever. But we took it all in our stride and walked through the rain and damp, faces wet and clothes stuck to our skin, to explore the bonnie village of Luss.
Located halfway between Balloch and Arrochar, Luss is one of Scotland’s prettiest villages. Wooded hills rise gently on the west of the village, while on the east, the village slopes gently to the waters of Loch Lomond. Across the waters are the Trossachs and dominating this view is the mighty Ben Lomond, the southernmost Munro, cloaked in swirling clouds. The village has a population of less than 500 but sees more than 700,000 visitors a year! It is spilling with day-trippers and coaches during the holidays when the gardens and flower pots are overflowing with brightly coloured blooms. If you want some quiet, skip the summer months and visit in spring to see the budding leaves and snowdrops or in autumn when the leaves turn.
ETYMOLOGY OF LUSS // There are two theories about how Luss got its name:
According to the Loch Lomond and Trossachs website, when St. Kessog brought Christianity to the area around 1,500 years ago, Luss was called Clachan Dhu (in Gaelic, Clachan is a small settlement and Dhu is black or dark) because it lay in the shadow of the surrounding hills. St. Kessog was attacked and killed at Bandry and his body was embalmed and buried at Luss. Legend has it that the herbs grew and covered his grave and the village was renamed Luss from lus which is Gaelic for herb.
According to Undiscovered Scotland, “Legend has it that the village takes its name from an adaptation of the French for the heraldic flower, the iris, or Fleur de Lys. According to the legend, a local girl married a high-ranking French officer in the 14th Century. She died in France but her body was returned to be buried by Loch Lomond; Fleur de Lys strewn on her grave by her husband are said to have taken root and grown here ever since.”
Also read: For more etymology tidbits, see our The Etymology of Names of the Neighbourhoods of Kolkata post.
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A Short History of Luss
The history of Luss goes back to medieval times. The settlement was located at a point that was convenient embarkation from the land routes on the western shores of Loch Lomond to the waterways crossing the loch and providing access to the crannogs and religious sites on the loch’s islands. Several early-medieval and medieval monuments survive in the present churchyard, including simple cross-slabs which may date to as early as the 7th century AD, and a hogback grave cover from the 11th century. In the early 6th century, St. Kessog brought Christianity to this area. After he was martyred at Bandry, St. Kessog was buried at Luss which became an important centre of pilgrimage.
The first document relating to the secular lordship of Luss dates from before 1224. The titles and estates passed to Sir Robert of Colquhoun in 1365 making him the 5th Laird of Colquhoun and 7th of Luss. The discovery of slate in the surrounding hills changed the pace of life in Luss. Slate was in demand for roofing in the 19th century and the blue, purple, or grey Luss slate was used for the tenements of Glasgow, Stirling, Greenock, and Edinburgh. As they did not have to be carried over the open sea they were not subject to tax, which made them cheaper.
At the beginning of the 19th century, apart from the Colquhoun Arms Hotel the village of Luss was made up of a collection of rude, vernacular houses of dry stone walling and thatch. During the century Sir James, the 12th Baronet of Colquhoun, initiated the building of the model cottages now seen on the main street in Luss. The Outstanding Conservation Area in Luss contains 36 buildings, 24 of which have Category B or C listed status.
Where is Luss
Luss is a village located in Argyll and Bute, Scotland. It sits on the western shore of Loch Lomond, halfway between Balloch and Arrochar. It’s a popular destination for tourists visiting the Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park.
How to Reach Luss By Public Transport
Yes, you can visit Luss by public transport! Just like Stirling or North Berwick, Luss is easily accessible by public transport which makes it a great car-free day trip destination from Edinburgh and Glasgow.
HOW TO REACH LUSS BY BUS // CityLink services 914, 915, 916, 926, 975, 976, and 977 from Glasgow will drop you on the A82 near the car park. The journey takes an hour. The village is a short walk from the bus stop. If you are travelling from Edinburgh, you have to change buses in Glasgow.
- If you are travelling to Luss from Balloch, the 305 bus run by McCOLL’S connects Balloch and Luss. Alternatively, you can get on a CityLink service.
- If you are travelling from Helensburgh or Arrochar, Garelochhead Coaches runs bus 302 from Helensburgh to Carrick Castle via Luss. From Helensburgh, McCOLL’s 306 runs to Balloch.
HOW TO REACH LUSS BY TRAIN // From Luss, the closest railway stations are Balloch (connected to Edinburgh via Glasgow) and Helensburgh (direct Scotrail connections to Edinburgh). See above for bus connections from these places to Luss.
HOW TO REACH LUSS BY CYCLE // The West Loch Lomond Cycle Path is a 28 km / 17 miles path that connects Balloch and Tarbet via Luss. You could bring your cycle on the train to Balloch from Edinburgh or Glasgow, then ride to Luss.
HOW TO GO FROM EDINBURGH TO LUSS? To go from Edinburgh to Luss, take the bus or train to Glasgow, then a CityLink bus from Glasgow to Luss.
Things to do in Luss
If you love the outdoors, there are some incredible things to do in Luss! Read to find out about all the activities we did in Luss.
Explore Luss, one of Scotland’s Prettiest Villages
Luss is incredibly pretty! Luss is a conservation village. Stone cottages adorned with bright flowers paint a pretty picture against the moody hills and Loch Lomond. In spring and summer, every street is bright with colours: Red roses, hot pink fuchsias, violet hydrangeas, and countless others we cannot name are everywhere. Their vibrance brightens up the gloomiest Scottish day! The main street of the village slopes gently down to the loch; from the pier, you can enjoy a sweeping vista: Loch Lomond with its many islands against a backdrop of misty hills, the tallest of which, Ben Lomond, has its head perpetually veiled in a swirl of haze. In the village, there are pretty gift shops and welcoming cafes; cottages and BnBs with lyrical names such as Alderdale and Glenburn; Victorian streetlights shining a dim glow; and a historic church. It is so pretty that you could walk its few streets a thousand times and yet never want to leave!
Also read: Visting Edinburgh? Find out 20+ Free Things to Do in Edinburgh in our post!
Visit the Historic Luss Parish Church
One of the most important sites in Luss is the historic Parish Church. Though the present-day Gothic structure was built in 1875, the site dates back 1500 years to the 6th century when St. Kessog, an Irish missionary, founded a religious site here. In the churchyard, there’s a Norse hogback stone said to mark a Viking grave. The stone dates back to the 1260s when Vikings raided the area. Inside the church, the ceiling is a magnificent hammer-beam roof in the shape of an upturned boat. It is said that it was built in memory of the tragic drowning of Sir James Colquhoun and his men on the loch in 1873.
Go on Walks around Luss
No trip in the UK is complete without a few rambling walks! There are some excellent walking trails in and around Luss. Those seeking a more strenuous, hillwalking experience can climb Beinn Dubh for breathtaking views of Loch Lomond or Beinn Eich. For easier walks, there is the Luss Heritage Trail, the riverside trail, and the quarry trail. Luss also has a trail made especially for children: The Loch Lomond Fairie Trail. For £4 (adults)/£2 (children) (July, 2022), you can explore a trail decorated with carvings and characters from local lores. If you are travelling with kids, this is certainly one of the best activities in Luss!
Tour Loch Lomond on a Cruise from Luss
One of the best things to do in Luss is to go on a cruise on Loch Lomond. It is a wonderful way to see both sides of the loch and the surrounding scenery. You could ride a boat or an inflatable rib. We picked a 90-minute cruise (£18 for adults in July 2022) with Cruise Loch Lomond and spent a lovely 90 minutes slowly cruising over the rainy waters and looking at the islands. The cruise also had live commentary about the many islands that we passed and the clan history of this area. Keith, our skipper, pointed out osprey nests on the shore of one of the islands. He shared some tidbits about the islands, many of whose names start with ‘Inch’, from the Gaelic word ‘innis’ meaning island.
- In the 1920s, Lady Arran Colquhoun introduced a colony of wallabies on Inchconnachan. We didn’t spot any but they still live there!
- Inchloanaig Island was chosen by Robert the Bruce in the 14th century to plant yew trees that would provide the wood for the bows for his archers.
- Inchcailloch is Gaelic for the ‘island of the old or cowled woman‘. It is named after St. Kentigerna who is said to have established a nunnery here in the 8th century.
- Inchfad had an illicit whiskey distillery in the 19th century.
Picnic on Inchcailloch Island
We did not visit Inchcailloch Island on this trip but it seems very popular. Most of the folks on our cruise alighted here! There are three main walking routes in Inchcailloch, one of which promises lovely views across to other islands and Ben Lomond from its summit. You can enjoy a picnic on the sandy beach or camp in Port Bawn where a small campsite is open from March to September. Visit in May to see the bluebells that carpet the island! If you missed the cherry blossoms in Edinburgh, here’s your chance to see some blooms.
Also read: Check out this lovely walk through the Dalmeny estate from Queensferry to Cramond along the shores of the Firth of Forth.
Try Water Sports in Luss
Paddle-boating, kayaking, and canoeing seem to be popular things to do in Luss. You can hire equipment from Loch Lomond Leisure near the pier. We spotted adventurous souls taking their kayaks on the rainy waters to explore the loch and visit the islands.
Swim at Luss Beach
No doubt swimming in the loch is one of the top things to do in Luss except for us, expats from the fiery lands of India. The water was cooooold but that didn’t stop the Scots from swimming! All we did was stand on the shore and stare in awe. Maybe someday…
Shop for Souvenirs in Luss
Luss has some charming gift shops stocked with souvenirs that will remind you of Scotland. The Village Shop has some good preserves and jams among other items. The Highland Art Studio near the pier stores artwork by local artists and other knick-knacks. At the Luss General Store, you can find a variety of items made of plaid and a good selection of Scotch whiskies. They also stock a good selection of books about Scotland, including guides for local walks.
Where to Eat in Luss
We had some wonderful meals in Luss. There are only a few cafes and restaurants in Luss and all of them are very good.
The Village Rest | The Village Rest is one of the best restaurants in Luss. Incredible staff and comforting food meant that we ate at the Village Rest thrice in two days during our stay at the Luss campsite and we enjoyed every meal. Don’t miss their cakes for they are delicious.
Snack Shack | Right next to the Village Shop, this mom-and-pop joint run from a van serves excellent breakfast rolls and burgers. The owners are a delightful duo and fun to chat with! Note that they do not have many vegan options.
Coach House Coffee | Another excellent Luss restaurant and cafe is the Coach House which is an excellent place to try local Scottish dishes. They have a lovely garden where you can enjoy some sunshine with your food on a good day.
Loch Lomond Arms Hotel | One of the best restaurants in Luss is located in the Loch Lomond Arms Hotel. We couldn’t snag a reservation here but we hear that they are very, very good.
Also read: Wondering where to go next weekend? How about a day trip to Newcastle?
Where to Sleep in Luss
Due to its popularity, Luss is brimming with BnBs and guesthouses but there is also a campsite nearby, Luss campsite, if you are travelling with a tent or in a caravan.
Luss Campsite | This is where we camped for two nights in the rain! It is a lovely campsite by the loch and you will be treated to lovely vistas on good days. Toilets, hot showers, laundry, and dishwashing facilities are available. Unlike the Isle of Gigha campsite, they don’t have a microwave on site but there is a small convenience store for essentials. If, like us, you are a camping novice and do not want to lug cooking equipment, the village is only an 8-minute walk away. Luss campsite is accessible by public transport; the bus stop on the A82 is a 12-minute walk away.
LUSS CAMPSITE REVIEW: Located on the shores of Loch Lomond, Luss campsite has excellent views of the loch. It is a medium-sized campsite and very popular and can get crowded on the weekends. We spent two nights here and though it was busy and very rainy, we had a lovely experience. The staff were friendly and they helped answer any questions that we had.
BnBs and Self Catering Lets | Luss has several BnBs such as Glenview, Alderdale, and The Strome for you to pick from.
Hotels | The Loch Lomond Arms Hotel and The Lodge on Loch Lomond are your options in Luss.
Have you been to Luss? What are your favourite things to do in Luss?
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