Sherpa Lodge, Okhrey

I wish I could pull up a chair by the window in the bathroom but it’s too narrow to fit a chair. The views are mesmerizing: a deep valley seething with fog and mist and wooded mountains whose tops vanish in the clouds. When the clouds lift, tiny hamlets and terraced rice fields play peek-a-boo. We are at Sherpa Lodge, a homestay in Okhrey, a little hamlet in West Sikkim that has lately seen an influx of travellers and hikers and to cater to them, a bunch of homestays and guesthouses have mushroomed on the slopes. The weather is pleasantly cool and it being spring, wildflowers are blooming with mad abandon all over the village.

Sherpa Lodge is located at Okhrey, 10 mile, 10 km from Sombaria in West Sikkim. The two storey structure houses 4 bedrooms on the ground floor, and 3 bedrooms on the first floor. The covered patio on the first floor offers breathtaking views of the surroundings. You can seat yourself at one of the tables here and gaze at the mountains or work. Internet is surprisingly fast, thanks to a brand new mobile tower that has come up on top of the hill. Of course, the radiations are killing the hymenoptera but locals are happy with better connectivity and their newfound ability to stream YouTube videos. It’s a subject I obsess over regularly but I cannot make a choice for the residents of this remote little town.

The accommodation is family friendly and couple friendly. Unlike many hotels and lodges in India where unmarried Indian couples are shown the door, Sherpa Lodge welcomes them. We were not asked to reveal any information about our relationship. The staff is courteous and respectful of your privacy.

The rooms in Sherpa Lodge are basic but cosy. The wooden panelling keeps them warm in the chilly winters. The private rooms have attached bathrooms; hot water is available round the clock subject to the whims of the power station. Power cuts are common; generators spewing kerosene-scented smoke run in the evening to ensure the whole town doesn’t sink into darkness. But in a place as magical as this, where on a clear night, you can see the milky way and the beady-eyed stars sparkling in the sky, would you mind the darkness? Would you not have the occasional bark of a dog or the call of some night bird rather than the coarse gargle of the generator? I wonder if more travellers said yes to the darkness during power cuts, would the management get rid of them.

Also read: Going to Rinchenpong next? Book a stay at Mayal Paradise Homestay, Rinchenpong, Sikkim and thanks us later!

The restaurant is next door. Large windows line an entire wall; they invite the landscape, the frivolousness of the light in. At breakfast, we slurp soupy Maggi noodles and toast with omelettes. Outside, the light changes from gold to the moody grey of clouds. It’s like watching a movie: The Many Moods of Clouds.

From the patio on the second floor, the mountains beckon. At dusk, a magical blue light takes over everything. So sensual a colour, so unapologetic with its depth. Over tea and plates of peyazi, we let the evening serenade us. Without a word. Bodies cold. Hands cupped around empty cups of tea.

We visited three days before Sikkim went to vote and even the tiny town of Okhrey was caught in an election frenzy. Sumos decorated with SKM flags zapped in and out of town. The owner of Sherpa Lodge, M.N. Sherpa is running for a seat in the state Legislative Assembly this year and though we wanted to chat with him about local politics, he was too pressed for time. His brother, Sange, who runs the business with him is a wonderful host. The Sherpa family owns most of the homestays. If you are booking Sherpa Lodge, keep in mind that you might be getting a room in any of their buildings (which are all close by) depending on availability. Rest assured that other than their individual idiosyncrasies, all the different buildings meet the same standard!

Also read: If you are travelling to Darap, book a stay with Shiva Gurung and his family at the Daragaon Village Retreat, Darap.

Sikkim has been certified as the world’s first and only organic state. Most homestays like Sherpa Lodge grow their own produce. We climb down a fleet of mossy stairs that hugs the mountainside and runs between fields of potatoes, cabbage, and broccoli. Here and there, in smaller plots grow a mix of carrots, peas, tomatoes, and onions. The greenhouses are empty this time of the year but in the winter, besides vegetables, farmers grow orchids in them. If you taste Sikkimese food, you would find little to no hint of cardamom but this little state produces the country’s largest share of black cardamoms, or bara elaichi, a spice that is highly sought-after in the Mughlai kitchens of India. During harvest season, the air is rife with the resinous, masculine scent of cardamon.

Also read: Explore Okhrey with our Okhrey, Sikkim Travel Guide.

The young woman who mans the kitchen is an amazing cook! At dinner, we are served soft rotis, chicken curry, a thick dal with a mix of lentils, a dish of stir-fried cabbage and carrots, and cubed potatoes in a tomato-based sauce. The food is light, mildly spiced, and you can taste the freshness of the produce. Few things taste as good as organic, farm-fresh produce! However, look carefully at the menu and you’ll see a shift from traditional Sikkimese dishes to more tourist-friendly Bengali-style dishes.

Sherpa Lodge Review

Sherpa Lodge: How to Book

We had contacted the owners prior to our journey (email us for contact information) to inquire about room rates and arrangements. The usual rates are around 1200 INR per person per night and this includes the stay along with breakfast, lunch, evening snacks, and dinner for the individual. Alcohol, or any other food requests falling outside this plan will cost extra. They can also arrange vehicles for pick-ups and drop-offs to Siliguri, Darjeeling, Pelling, Gangtok, Jorethang, and other places. Cab rates vary according to the size of the vehicle.

The rates at Sherpa Lodge are lower during the off-season. Note that rooms fill up fast in April and May, so it is best to call and book in advance.

Also read: Read our experience of trekking in the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary.

Being a Responsible Guest in Indian Homestays: Okhrey

• Sikkimese culture embraces simplicity and honesty. Guests should be aware of and empathetic to the values of the local people. Most of the homestays are not hotels or hostels but are, in fact, homes of the locals who have generously opened their homes for travellers. Leave the room and bathroom as clean as possible.
• Don’t litter. Keep your room and the surroundings clean! Littering is punishable under Sikkimese laws.
• Smoking may be allowed inside your room but it is good to ask your hosts first. It’s a strict no-no in public and you may be penalised.
• Single-use plastics have been banned in Sikkim. Do not ask for one if you buy goods at the local shop.
• Subscribe to and encourage recycling. In Okhrey, garbage segregation is encouraged. Ask your hosts about the local garbage disposal system.
• Most of the local places shut early at night and it’s hard to find anybody once the clock goes past 9 pm. The restaurant closes early too and it’s best not to request a late dinner. Do make sure to take care of any requirements or ask for any kind of help before that.
• Be prepared for the occasional power cuts and the occasional non-availability of necessities like warm water.
• It is best to take clothing that protects you from the cold and also rain, no matter what season you are going in. Your hosts may not be able to provide you with spare raincoats and umbrellas.
• Treat your hosts and their customs and belief with humility and respect.