“There’s a rainbow in the sky,” Aninda says as he shakes me awake. “Come!” I drag my sleepy feet to the balcony and there it is! A vibrant bow of seven colours stretching over the wooded valley! Suddenly I am wide awake! I can hardly contain my excitement as I get the camera and take a few photographs. We’ve been in Sikkim for four days and it’s the first sunny day and we are at a homestay in Darap! The rain, which had pounded on the roofs all night has ceased, and the sweet fragrance of deodar hangs in the air. “You missed the Khangchendzonga!” he says, “For a few minutes, it was there,” and he points his finger to a deep V in between the nearest mountains, “shining like a pyramid of gold in the first light of day.” He is beyond happy!
We are spending our days at Daragaon Village Retreat, a homestay run by the Gurung family, in the idyllic village of Darap in West Sikkim. From the main road, you climb a flight of slippery stairs that weaves up the mountain beside a gurgling albeit dirty creek to be greeted by a bright yellow sign announcing “Daragaon Village Retreat.” You cross a wooden bridge, underneath which is a little pool in which play colourful fishes, to enter the main hall and before you can dump your bags and sit down on the low benches, Teetee comes bounding at you to say hi! The Gurungs have two dogs and she’s the younger of the two. If Teetee had a Twitter account, her bio would read: Loves cuddles and making new friends! For the rest of the days, we can hardly get over her. Every time we see her cute, furry self, we can’t help but lapse into awwwwwwwws.
Also read: Use our Darap Travel Guide to plan your trip to Darap.
Daragaon Village Retreat comprises of a number of buildings including the main hall where gatherings are held and meals are served. There are wooden cottages for guests as well as a three-storied building which has rooms for the guests and the family. In this Darap homestay, there are trees and flowers everywhere. It is spring and the property is full of tulip magnolias, nasturtiums, lilies, and wildflowers. The Gurungs have a small kitchen in the property where they grow tomatoes, fennel, carrots, and spring onions. Like most other homestays in Sikkim, the world’s first and only organic state, they grow most of their produce. In the fields surrounding the property, there are potatoes, mustard, corn, and green peas growing. The white greenhouses, which stand like ghosts against the surrounding greenery, haven’t been of much success, says Shiva Gurung. They had tried experimenting with orchids the past winter but the yield was low but he is hopeful that the coming winter, it’ll be better.
The rooms in our wood and stone cottage were basic, cosy, and well-insulated. Ours had a writing desk! Talk about becoming a digital nomad and working from a place as superlative in beauty like this! However, WiFi isn’t free. If you are staying longer, you might be able to strike up a deal with the hosts! The views from the balcony at our Darap homestay were breathtaking!
Also read: Use our Yuksom, Sikkim, Travel Guide to plan a day trip to Yuksom from Darap.
Shiva’s wife, Radha, is an amazing cook! We arrive late, past lunchtime, but she rustles up a delicious dish of vegetables and noodles made from local wheat and a dip of homemade cheese folded with ground Dallo pickles. The Gurungs are members of the Limboo community. Their religion, Yumaism, encourages vegetarianism, which in this part of the world, excludes eggs too. However, they serve chicken and eggs to guests. For breakfast the next morning, we are served aloo parathas– among the best I’ve had in years– with the cheese-chilli dip and pancakes made of bananas and millet.
Daragaon Village Retreat was awarded Silver in Outlook’s Indian Responsible Tourism Award in 2017 in the Community-based Homestay Category. The award occupies pride of the place in the dining room beside a photograph of the Governor of Sikkim when he visited the Gurungs. The rest of the shelves are stacked with local artefacts and books on Sikkimese literature, politics, and ecology. A few editions of Lonely Planet India Traveller and Outlook Traveller are stacked in the bottom shelf.
On one of the evenings, a large gathering was held where men from around the village came to discuss the spring festival which was to be held on the full-moon night. A bonfire was lit and chilled bottles of Dansberg beer and glasses of Old Monk were passed around. Invitations were distributed. There weren’t many women involved in the discussions, we observed, though Sikkimese society is relatively more progressive when compared to the rest of India. Later, we talk to a community member about hiking trails around the area. He tells us about the Goecha La and the Dzongri treks which start from Yuksom, a few kilometres north of Darap. We ask if winter is a good time to visit and he paints an alluring picture of the surrounding snow-covered hillside with words.
Shiva has a 7-day itinerary for guests who want to immerse themselves into the history and culture of the region while staying at his Darap homestay. There are day treks like the one at Rani Dhunga, a visit to a local cheese factory, cooking classes, and much more. Hailey Dickson, a fellow writer who has been travelling across India, was staying at Daragaon Village Retreat when we were there and she talks about Yumaism and visiting a living goddess in Darap in this post. For discerning travellers who want to learn about this corner of the world, about the people who live here, the Gurung family is a wonderful resource.
There is no dearth of hospitality in this Darap homestay. The hosts are kind and the service is excellent. Their attention to detail is evident not only in how they look after their guests but also in the decor. At the entrance, is a copper bowl filled with water. When I ask Shiva about its significance in his culture, he says it stands as a symbol that says you are now a part of this family.
As we sit in the dining room the night before we leave, savouring our dinner of rotis, dal, chicken curry, and cabbage stir-fry, we can’t help but miss Darap. Teetee is curled up on the floor. Her tummy rises and falls as she breathes. Perhaps here where solitude is the sovereign ruler, where the food tastes of the earth that nurtures it, where the air is sweet and fresh, her sleep is dreamless.
Also read: Our Complete West Sikkim Travel Guide will help you plan an exciting trip to West Sikkim.
Daragaon Village Retreat Review
Location: The homestay is situated up a flight of stairs from the main road and commands mesmerizing views of the surrounding mountains. However, the property is not disability friendly. The stairs to the homestay are steep. No wheelchair-friendly disability access ramp is available.
Rooms: Our rooms were very basic and small but were very well insulated and well maintained. The bed was comfortable and the wardrobe contained extra blankets and pillows. The writing desk was the perfect addition! The bathroom, too, was spic and span. Remember that there are no showers in places like these but hot water is available. However, there were no views to be enjoyed from the room. The balcony in front of our kancha and kanchi room was the perfect place where you can sip your chai and flip through their impressive collection of books. The central hall, where the lunch and dinner are served doubles up as the common area and is the most happening part of the place. Room heaters are available. Ask Shiva if you need one.
Service: It’s unfair to term this as service. This truly was an experience where we were practically sheltered and fed by a family and their community and all we had to do was show up at the proper hours for our food. Shiva and his family were warm, friendly, and helpful. Nothing felt transactional and everything felt heartfelt. I believe this is where Daragaon Village Resort excels as a place to stay in.
Food & Drinks: The food is served on a beautiful kansar thala. Expect organic farm-fresh produce cooked with minimum spices and oil; dishes in which you can taste the flavours of the vegetables without getting overwhelmed by spices and condiments. Radha is an excellent cook and every dish she serves is cooked with love! You can also try the local brew, tongba, here.
Daragaon Village Retreat: How to Book
We contacted Shiva (email us for contact information) and inquired about rates two months in advance. The rates vary between INR 1200 and INR 1500 depending on the season (2017). Breakfast and dinner are included. Shiva can arrange pick-ups and drop-offs from Pelling and Jorethang. For other destinations, contact him.
Daragaon Village Retreat: How to Reach
From Pelling, take a Yuksom or Rimbi bound taxi and get off at the main market in Darap. Take the left fork and walk till you reach a sign saying Daragaon Village Retreat. To reach the homestay, climb up the staircase. Your driver might be able to drop you off at the exact location, so let them know you are going to the Daragaon Village Retreat.
If travelling from Siliguri, Bagdogra, or Gangtok, plan to come to Pelling first and then take a shared taxi to reserve a cab for INR 300.
Being a Responsible Guest in Indian Homestays: Darap Homestay
- Sikkimese culture embraces simplicity and honesty. Guests should be aware of and empathetic to the values of the local people. Most of the homestays are not hotels or hostels but are, in fact, homes of the locals who have generously opened their homes for travellers. Leave the room and bathroom as clean as possible.
- Don’t litter. The lawns and flowerpots are not receptacles for cigarette butts. Keep your room and the surroundings clean! Littering is punishable under Sikkimese laws.
- Smoking may be allowed inside your room but it is good to ask your hosts first. It’s a strict no-no in public and you may be penalised.
- Single-use plastics have been banned in Sikkim. Do not ask for one if you buy goods at the local shop.
- Subscribe to and encourage recycling. Ask your hosts about the local garbage disposal system.
- Be prepared for the occasional power cuts and the occasional non-availability of necessities like warm water.
- It is best to take clothing that protects you from the cold and rain, no matter which season you are going in. Your hosts may not be able to provide you with spare raincoats and umbrellas.
- Treat your hosts and their customs and belief with humility and respect.
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