What the lord is to people with Jesus in their hearts, lard is to foodies with pork in their hearts. Seasoned pork enthusiasts would agree that with experience and maturity, one tends to seek dishes and recipes that are less about processed meat (this DOES NOT mean I am letting go of my breakfast bacon) and more about local recipes that incorporate traditional cooking ingredients, sensibilities and style and offer bolder flavour profiles. Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya and home of the Khasi, Garo, and Jayantia people, is offering me a tasty look into an array of pork dishes, which have eschewed the continental cold cuts and have embraced the spicy and saucy gravies of Indo-Tibetan cuisine and the tangy and tasty curries from Khasi family staples.

Join us on our quest to find the best pork preparations in Shillong.

The Police Bazaar Circle

My first stop after reaching Shillong is the town square (or, in this case, the town circle) where crowded street food stalls appear like frenzied epicentres of an everyday food festival. The aromas are tantalizing and before I can decide, I am already salivating in front of a stall where cubed pieces of pork are being grilled on skewers on an open flame.

I point out the skewer I want to be grilled to the guy selling it. The succulent pieces of char-grilled pork are served minced and slathered with spicy mint chutney and chopped red onions. The meat is juicy and tender. At INR 100 a stick, it’s a steal! You can also get chicken skewers at the same price if you want to delve into some hill-poultry. (Take it from me, both poultry and Maggi tastes better in the hills than whatever you get in the flatland cities).

Grilled Pork
Police Bazaar Street Eats : Pork Cubes, just before grilling
Grilled Pork
Police Bazaar Street Eats : Grilled Pork, cooked and ready
Pork Curry
Police Bazaar Street Eats : Simple Pork Curry
Pork Liver Curry
Police Bazaar Street Eats : Pork Liver Curry

Moving along, I spot local women selling home-cooked style dishes. I find a stall specializing in pork preparations but the woman says she is almost all out of all the dishes she had made that day and offers us some Pork Curry (the oh so sexy Shuorer Jhal) and some Pork Liver Curry.

I skip the plain rice to go along with the curries and set to devouring the curried meats in small, devoted bites. The Pork Curry is aromatic and spicy. In the shivering colds of Meghalaya, it is the classic comfort food! The liver curry has an earthy flavour I would not soon forget. Both dishes cost us around INR 50 together. Effective micro indulgence is what I will term it!

Shillong Café – Porking in style

We had heard that Shillong Café is one of the best places to eat in Shillong. Thus, after the customary sightseeing when dinnertime called for some laid-back indulgence, we headed to Shillong Café. It is a popular haunt for the city’s young and trendy and keeps its doors open relatively late by Meghalayan standards. Recommendations say that both branches of Shillong Café are some of the best places for Indo-Chinese and Indo-Continental Pork specialities in Shillong. We manage to find the branch near Don Bosco Square and find a musical performance going on inside. I finish my coffee listening to Cohen being played live before ordering the classic: Fried Rice and Chili Pork.

Also read: Read our guide to exploring Shillong in a day: 24 hrs in Shillong, Meghalaya.

Shillong Cafe Pork
Fried Rice & Chili Pork

The rice here is the short grain Joha rice that is often used for sticky rice puddings. The sliced pork pieces are all lean and cooked to perfection. I love that the pork here does not rely completely on the accompanying chilli gravy and brings its own flavour to the game.

Also read: Read about our gastronomic experiences in Darjeeling: A Nostalgist’s Guide to Eating in Darjeeling.

Shillong Cafe Beef
Culinary Detour : Fried Chili Beef with Rice Noodles

As the night progresses, I also help myself to some Fried Chili Beef with Rice Noodles (the spicy and slightly oily beef preparation imparts seasoning and flavour to the bland noodles) and downed it with some hot chocolate. What do you call this, a good meal, and a good night?

The Eatery Beside Don Bosco Museum – What a Discovery!

The eatery right beside the Don Bosco Museum complex is sort of an open secret that all locals are aware of but I never came across it during the internet research sessions that I undertook before arriving here. But ever locals have recommended this as one of their favourite restaurants in Shillong more than once.

I start with one of their signature dishes called Smoked Meghalayan Pork, a dish in which slices of pork are first lightly roasted and then smoked. This lends a smokey flavour to the meat. And I am not complaining about the abundance of red chillies in the dish either!

Pork from Nagaland
The Naga Pork Thali

Their menu is filled with dishes that come from the seven sister states of the North East and I taste the Meghalayan and the Nagaland thalis. I get the best of their local dishes but the steaming hot bowls of Meghalayan and Naga pork curries are the pièce de résistance in the thalis. The Naga Pork Curry is made with bamboo shoots and has a sour taste.

Pork from Meghalaya
The Meghalayan Pork Thali

The Meghalayan Curry is more mellow and almost earthy in a thick gravy that has been slow-cooked. The meat used here is very fatty and less tender. But here, they put special attention to the thick pork skin and it is an absolute delight to chew through the crust with some plain and simple sada bhaat.

The Road Side Pork Momos – Tangible Happiness

The greatest of happiness comes in the smallest packages. Local momo sellers set up hawker stalls at street corners every day. They make the freshest and greatest of Momos at dirt-cheap prices!

Roadside Pork Momo
Food Geometry – The kind of Math I Love!!
Pork Momos
Dirt Cheap Pork Momos, slathered with spicy chili chutney

Pork Momos are just INR 30 for 6-8 pieces. The coating here is a tad thicker than what I am used to but the inside is stuffed with flavorful, well-seasoned minced pork. The meat is juicy and you can taste black pepper, ginger, and garlic in your mouth. If nothing else, you can always survive on momos when you are in the hills of the North East!

Trattoria – The Khasi Specialists

If you really want to know about the cuisine of a place, eat where the locals eat! This also saves you a fair bit of money by letting you avoid the tourist traps. I was on the lookout for some Khasi Cuisine and to my dismay, I could only manage to find Trattoria open. Shillong sleeps early and if you want to eat some local delicacies for dinner, make sure your dinner happens by 7’o clock.

Also read: Read about our favourite places to eat in Gangtok, Sikkim at The 10 Best Places to Eat in Gangtok.

Khasi Delicacies
Dohsniang nei-iong, resting on a bed of Jadoh

I order the Jadoh and the famed Dohsniang nei-iong. The Jadoh is a Khasi staple. It is a rice dish that is slow-cooked with pork (usually, but sometimes fish or chicken is used too) and some mildly flavoured but highly aromatic spices. Many who are used to spicier fares may not instantly like it but give it time and it will win you over. I pair my Jadoh with the very hard to pronounce curry, Dohsniang nei-iong, which is pork cooked with sesame seeds. The tender, fatty chunks of smokey pork cooked in a delicious sauce win me over! You should also keep a bit of space in your tummy for the Pork Leg Soup, Pork Balls and Doh khlieh, the local pork mixed curry from Trattoria too.

Tibet Kitchen Pork Momo
One of the best Pork Momos I have ever had!!

Tibet Kitchen – Familiar Love

If you are in Shillong and not haggling for knickknacks & woollens from the street vendors at Police Bazaar, then you are probably busy in Tibet Kitchen, the grade A hunger solution to all porky needs. Sitting inside makes me reminisce old Calcutta’s Chinese eating-houses in the back alleys of Poddar Court. Evident from all the murals and wall hangings is that this place stands strong and proud of its Tibetan connection. The same is reflected in the dishes they offer me as well.

Also read: The root bridges are a must-visit in Meghalaya. Read about our experience of trekking to the Living Double Decker Root Bridge.

Dry chili Pork
Dry Chili Pork : God’s gift to humanity

I order their Pork Momos (can’t do without them, it seems) and I am instantly bowled over by the serious goodness of the momos. A thin, almost creamy smooth texture of the outer layer is complimented with the inner mince. I miss my good ol’ Dry Chili Pork and order a plate next. Succulent cubes of pork come in a thick gravy of onions and bell peppers. The outer skin is crunchy from the frying and offers least resistance as I bite in.

Gravy Chili Pork
Bunch of green chillies, just casually being there in my Gravy Chili Pork

While I am happily devouring my food, the owner suggests I try the gravy version of the same dish. I agree immediately and to my surprise, I am greeted soon with not really a gravy but a brothy soupy dish where the meat floats in a soup laced with veggies and lots and lots of green chilli. This is an extremely spicy dish but in spite of the searing jhaal, I bite through every last cube of the glorious oink and drink every last drop of the soupy gravy. I go out in a state of euphoric foodgasm and not even the 6-degree centigrade chill of Meghalaya can stop my game tonight.

Finishing Notes – A foodies to-do list

There are a few places that I missed out on this time and would surely like to try the next time I manage to come around. Restaurants Jadoh & Red Rice specializes in Khasi Dishes and can be worthy alternatives to Trattoria. I hear that Kim Poo, a Tibetan restaurant within the Police Bazaar area makes some mean Pork Momos that are to die for too. I would also like to visit Phunga Restaurant next time; a place that unfortunately does not serve Pork but offers great authentic Manipuri dishes.

Shillong Pork Trail

What is your favourite place to binge on some good Pork? Let us know in the comments section!


Mohana & Aninda

Mohana and Aninda are travellers and advocates for car-free travel. Two-together is their travel blog where they document their travels to encourage and inspire readers to seek solace in new places, savour local cuisines, and relish both unique and everyday experiences. When they are not travelling, they are actively researching trip ideas and itineraries, obsessing over public transport timetables, reviewing travel budgets, and developing content for their blog. They are currently based in Edinburgh and exploring Scotland and beyond by public transport.

63 responses to “Shillong Pork Trail: Where to Find the Best Pork Dishes”

  1. BatmanAndMe Avatar
    BatmanAndMe

    Yummy pork… 😍😍😍😍😍😍

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Glad you liked the porky tour 🙂

      1. BatmanAndMe Avatar
        BatmanAndMe

        I am eating Costello de porko… 😋😋😋

      2. Karikor Avatar
        Karikor

        Do let me know next time you are in town.

        1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
          Bangali Backpackers

          How to reach you? Will you send us your contact information via our contact form?

          1. Karikor Avatar
            Karikor

            You can find me on FB as Kari Kharkongor

          2. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
            Bangali Backpackers

            I will! Thanks!

  2. A Curious Mind Avatar
    A Curious Mind

    Good porky tour of Shillong, but too much of fatty pork.

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      True, I guess the fatty meat imparts a bit more of energy that one needs to expend if one is living in high altitude & cold regions like Meghalaya. Although plenty of lean meat can be bought & cooked if you look through the local markets. And ofcourse the higher end places serve more leaner pork in their dishes.

      1. A Curious Mind Avatar
        A Curious Mind

        Hmm… I was thinking about the energy angle too.

  3. Karikor Avatar
    Karikor

    You should try the Big Pork Momo next time you are in town

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thanks! Is it the name of an eatery? Where in Shillong?

      1. Karikor Avatar
        Karikor

        You will find them all around town especially in smaller eateries serving noodles and momos. Their sizes vary from place to place. The biggest I’ve had though, which was the size of an entire quarter plate is at Step In Restaurant in Lachumiere opposite the Gold’s Gym. Best thing is you get them only with pork as option.

      2. suchiradipta Avatar
        suchiradipta

        Near Polo Ground it is available in small eateries managed by local people. Some just sell them on the roadside (you will find them sitting with momo maker). The best one I had though was in a shop behind Synod Complex near Motphran. The chicken drumsticks there are also worth trying. But that was almost 2 years back. I have no idea if the shop still exists

        1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
          Bangali Backpackers

          Thanks!

  4. evavonp Avatar
    evavonp

    I have always loved ethnic food and the older I get the more I love it – Indian and Chinese being the favorites. The fatty food, however, hmm… not so much. If you like fat have a Pork Adobo in the Philippines, 95% fat, 5% meat. Bon appetite and happy travels. Eva

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thanks, Eva! The food in the NE is very different from what is known as “Indian cuisine” in the West. It is less spicy and oily. There are fewer vegetarian options. Pork is popular. You will also find endemic greens that are creamed or stewed.

  5. Neha Sharma Avatar
    Neha Sharma

    Can’t really comment on pork as I’m vegetarian myself, but I did love the noodles at Cafe Shillong. And very close to that I found another small joint that did Thali style meals from many of the North-Eastern states. Can’t remember the name of the place but I had a Mizoram thali, simple and very nice.

    1. Karikor Avatar
      Karikor

      Manipuri Thali from Phunga.

      1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
        Bangali Backpackers

        We’ll check this place out on our next visit.

    2. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Yes, we did visit that place. I think we tried the Naga thali. Can’t quite remember.

  6. Lauren Pears Avatar
    Lauren Pears

    I never made it to Shillong on my trip to India, but I’ve heard good things about the food scene there! I don’t eat meat myself, but it looks like there’s some great places to try some great food 🙂

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      The music scene in Shillong is pretty rad too. If the food doesn’t do it for it, the music sure will! Thanks for stopping by, Lauren!

  7. Lance Avatar
    Lance

    Oh, so many amazing places to eat pork. Pork is not my first choice of food, I prefer chicken, but some of these dishes sound amazing. Any curry or chutney sounds geat to me. I like the sound of the chili pork. And the pork momos all looks amazing. My mouth is watering just thinking about those pork momos. Do you think they deliver overseas?

    1. KARIKOR KHARKONGOR Avatar
      KARIKOR KHARKONGOR

      Lance. You should plan a trip to the North East of India atleast once.

  8. mapcameratravel1 Avatar
    mapcameratravel1

    THough i am pure veggie.. looks like this is quite detailed post for the pork lovers.. Hope you enjoyed all of it. Great work.

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      We had a great time in Shillong. Thank you so much for stopping by!

  9. Mel Avatar
    Mel

    Hmmm….I like pork but only the lean kind. My husband loves the fat though and would probably love to try all of these

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thanks for stopping by, Mel!

  10. Anja Avatar
    Anja

    Gosh, I know so little about India, but each time I read something it makes me more and more curious. I haven’t heard about Shillong, so I researched a bit on the Internet, and the nature surrounding the town looks astonishing! Now back to your pork dishes- I would love to try each and every dish you took photo of, but Smoked Menghalayan Pork makes me salivate! Good thing you found this local’s favorite place. Regarding my favorite places to eat pork: Takayama, Japan- a small family-run restaurant served us the thinnest slices of pork (almost like a chips), fried with fresh ginger and onions! Also, Orvieto, Italy is known for roasted pork sandwiches, and one place near the cathedral is especially popular- the sandwiches were so simple, yet delicious!

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      The Northeastern states of India are yet to be pinned to tourist maps and you must visit for the solitude and of course, the wonderful food and the kind people who live here. Then there’s Goa on the west coast firmly on the tourist map since I do not when, the land of laid-back days and delicious curries: https://tbbtravels.wordpress.com/tag/goa/
      Thanks for stopping by, Anja! Hope you come to India soon 🙂

  11. The Travel Bunny Avatar
    The Travel Bunny

    The Naga and the Meghalayan Pork Thali seem tempting 🙂 The others, unfortunately, look a bit too heavy for my taste. 😦

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thanks for stopping by! The food in NE India is very different from what is marketed as Indian food all over the world. Oil and spices are used sparingly and you can taste the subtle flavours of the produce and protein.

  12. Yukti Avatar
    Yukti

    I am vegetarian, so cannot taste this dish. But I am forwarding this post who loves non vegetarian dishes. But you have taken good photographs of all dishes in Shillong.

    1. Bangali Backpackers Avatar
      Bangali Backpackers

      Thanks for stopping by, Yukti!

  13. Manon van Os Avatar
    Manon van Os

    All that pork looks so yummy! Definitely saving this for when I get to visit 🙂

  14. Unravelling Travelling Avatar
    Unravelling Travelling

    I can’t say I know much about pork, but these dishes look delicious, great photos! Eating where the locals eat is always a good decision.

  15. Katerina Avatar
    Katerina

    This post makes me really hungry! It looks like you had a great food tour! Love your photos 🙂

  16. travelswiththecrew Avatar
    travelswiththecrew

    I have pork on my heart!!! I love it when it has crispy edges and juicy interior. These all look fabulous!!

  17. Endless Travel Journey Avatar
    Endless Travel Journey

    I am a big fan of porky food, sure is like a paradise to me. Love those local cooking style

  18. Kylee Avatar
    Kylee

    I LOVE THIS POST! What a great time this must have been to make this haha Thank you so much for sharing this and making me hungry!

  19. Opposite Tourists Avatar
    Opposite Tourists

    Great photos! All these dishes look delicious. I don’t tend to order much pork at restaurants but this post has inspired me to.

  20. Dalibro Avatar
    Dalibro

    Fooooooooooood! 😀 I’m a veggie but it’s still making me hungry.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      You are a true foodie! 😀

  21. Suvarna Avatar
    Suvarna

    I actually don’t eat pork for religious reasons however I must admit that these pictures Had me drooling!

  22. Ee Sing Avatar
    Ee Sing

    Wow.. looks like you had quite an amazing food frenzy on the pork hunt and it all looks so good!

  23. MC Adventure Blog Avatar
    MC Adventure Blog

    My goodness, I started reading this with no idea that Shillong existed or that they did pork so well, but now I am seriously hungry and thinking of booking a trip there ASAP! Beautiful post!

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      You must! NE India isn’t as touristy yet and there’s a lot to discover plus eat!

  24. Alex Trembath Avatar
    Alex Trembath

    I do love my pork dishes but fried chilli beef is a big favourite of mine so I liked your ‘culinary detour’ as well! All these dishes look great 🙂

  25. lukeandmeagan Avatar
    lukeandmeagan

    I don’t eat a lot of pork in daily life – I’d say I only do fish and poultry, but I don’t have the willpower to give up bacon! – but I was literally sitting here reading some of your amazing descriptions out loud to my boyfriend. We haven’t even had breakfast yet and we’re both about to drool! hahah thank you so much for this!

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Haha! Thank you so much, guys!

  26. alison Avatar
    alison

    This post made me so hungry. I love pork dishes especially where people know how to cook it just right. Your pictures were great and I wanted to take a fork and take a bite out of the pictures. Thank you for sharing the detailed meals and locations where you ate them.

  27. The Expat Mummy Avatar
    The Expat Mummy

    I love pork,its my favourite ..your blog has inspired me to try it in new ways.

  28. Alexander Popkov Avatar
    Alexander Popkov

    Ohh that is the place I would go, when I want to have different food. Seriously, I rarely decide on destination only based on food.

  29. Lisa Avatar
    Lisa

    I’ve read so many good things about momos, that I really want to try some now! I actually really enjoy pork too, so this post made my mouth water. It’s a very interesting cuisine!

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Momos are the best! You’ve got to try some!

  30. NKEM CHUKWUMERIJE Avatar
    NKEM CHUKWUMERIJE

    That opening line was really funny – and this is a very useful article for pork lovers! Thanks for sharing!

  31. Nina Avatar
    Nina

    I’m trying some of these! They definitely look so yummy. I like the pork with a little bit of fat in it. Unfortunately, you don’t get the fats of the pork here much. It’s not available at Walmart and other grocery shops. :/

  32. J David Garnett Avatar
    J David Garnett

    I’m getting hungry just reading this; pork is my favourite meat (other than the bbq rat of north east Thailand.)

  33. Su Bha Sun Avatar
    Su Bha Sun

    This is such a mouth watering post. I am feeling hungry right now. Hahaha

  34. livetotravelsaniyapuri Avatar
    livetotravelsaniyapuri

    I am a vegetarian so I cannot be a good judge of this but definitely I will refer this amazing post to my hardcore nonvegetarian friends..

  35. Bailey Mills Avatar
    Bailey Mills

    I love pork with all my heart, my mouth is watering just reading this! I am definitely going to have to try some of these next time I am in Southeast Asia!

  36. Jonathan Morales Avatar
    Jonathan Morales

    Pork! pork! pork! I just love the porkiness of this post, I will try to get inspiration from this next time I cook.

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