Staying at the Bara Mangwa Farmhouse

The Bara Mangwa Farmhouse is nestled at one end of the village of Bara Mangwa in the hills of West Bengal. Mangwa is a corruption of the amalgamation of the words Mang and Maya. Mang is wheat in the local tongue while Maya is illusion.

BARA MANGWA FARMHOUSE, WEST BENGAL / INDIA

While there are hotel and homestays galore in the Darjeeling district, the Bara Mangwa Farmhouse is a class apart. It was envisioned as a non-profit project that serves a two-pronged agenda: one, to provide travellers with a safe nest cocooned away from civilisation while simultaneously offering hotel-like services, and second, to create sustainable economic opportunities for the local community and to protect wildlife and natural resources of the area. The farmhouse is at the heart of activity for a village which is now focused on becoming an organic farming hub. The farmhouse engages the local youth and trains them as care-takers, hosts, cooks, and staff at the property. The owners have also invested in running the village school and a health centre for community members. Vegetables and fruits are grown on plots cut into the hillside and the owners buy directly from the farmers thus offering travellers a true farm-to-table culinary experience. Everything on your plate at the farmhouse is local and organic. Coupled with the mesmerizing views that the property offers, the excellent service, and friendly staff who are eager to show you around and answer your questions, a stay at the Bara Mangwa Farmhouse is an experience to cherish.

The Bara Mangwa Farmhouse is nestled at one end of the village of Bara Mangwa. Mangwa, I’m told, is a corruption of the amalgamation of the words Mang and Maya. Mang is wheat in the local tongue while Maya is illusion. Wheat cultivation was predominant here till the orange orchards took over in a classic case of cash crops toppling food crops for they bring in more cash but nobody knows where the maya in Mangmaya, as the Mangwa hill is often referred to, signified. Today, golden fields of wheat swaying in the crisp breeze are an aberration; all around the village are orchards full of sweet, juicy oranges.

How to Reach the Bara Mangwa Farmhouse

Bara Mangwa is 57 km from Siliguri and it takes around 2 hours by road. Shared cabs will drop you at Tista Bazaar; you’ll have to walk (or, hitchhike) the last 3 km from there to the farmhouse. Alternatively, you can reserve a taxi to the farmhouse. Note that the last half a mile is not motorable, but they have help at hand for those requiring special assistance. Just let them know beforehand and they’ll arrange for you to reach the farmhouse hassle-free.

From where the taxi drops you on the main road that skirts the estate, a narrow walkable trail will bring you to the gates of the farmhouse. The trail runs serenely in the shade of conifers and before you know, you are far from the smoke-belching civilization and into a land where nature rules supreme. Continue up the ridge and then you’ll see it; perched on the edge of the slope, commanding unparallel views of the growling Teesta is the Bara Mangwa farmhouse. Faraway, the view opens up to all of the snow-clad peaks of Darjeeling and Sikkim. It’s a view that can even transform the most unromantic, the most mundane of experiences into something unforgettable. It’s for views like this that thousands travel to these wooded mountains every year.

Rooms at the farmhouse

The farmhouse can be divided into two buildings. The primary building has three rooms on the lower level, two of which were open for guests when I was visiting. All three of these rooms open onto a large terrace that overlooks the valley. The terrace, is quite obviously, the focal point of the design and is perfect for mountain gazing for hours on end. The terrace is also the place of refuge for many of the local dogs who make it a point to demonstrate how to be lazy and how to idle your days in the higher altitudes! The upper floor houses a single large area which doubles up as the kitchen, which opens up into a dining area for guests.

There is also an annexe a minute away on the same property which has two rooms open for the guests. Both of these rooms are smaller than the ones in the main building. However, both have their own private balconies and therefore more privacy.

The rooms are fairly large, can easily accommodate three adults, and offer incredible views. I would recommend the annexe building rooms if you are looking for some peace and quiet; it is here where you are left completely undisturbed to communicate with the magnificent surroundings.

The rooms are tidy and offer basic amenities. Hot water is available on-demand and there are no geysers in the bathrooms. Remember that the experience at the farmhouse is decidedly closer to nature and offline. Therefore, you will not find a television in the room or any other luxuries of digital life. Instead, what you really do get is a quiet return to nature that’s both refreshing and cathartic.

Food at the farmhouse

The home-cooked and absolutely mouth-watering food they offer here is the true highlight of the trip! With every bite and sip, you can appreciate the freshness of the ingredients, all of which are locally sourced and organic. Goodness that’s so hard to find elsewhere!

The Chicken Curry and Omelette in Gravy were delicious but the real magic was in the vegetarian dishes and man, did the chef do wonders to vegetables! If you think that vegetarian food is dull, come for dinner at the Bara Mangwa Farmhouse. Be it the simple curry made from cabbage strips and soybean granules or the sautéed potato and carrot preparation, every dish was cooked to perfection. Over the two days I stayed here, I found no two dishes repeated at mealtimes. On the second day, the Chicken Curry was replaced by a Nepali style Black Pepper Chicken cooked that left my tongue tingling with joy. In a land where produce is limited, the dishes speak of the innovation and thoughtfulness that goes into planning and preparing the menu so that guests are treated to new recipes every time they sit down for a meal.

The eggs, harvested from local farms, are smaller and tastier. Poached, boiled, or made into omelettes, the richness of the yolks are nothing like the supermarket eggs we eat in the city. The ghee made in the farmhouse can beat any big brand available in the market. The creamy bowls of dal, when had with a squeeze of lemon and a sprinkle of black pepper, taste like they can cure all the diseases the body harbours.

If I do nothing here, visit nowhere, see no vistas and still have the food cooked at the Bara Mangwa Farmhouse, I would still consider my trip a roaring success. It is that good!

Also read: How about spending a few days in the neighbouring hamlet of Chhota Mangwa? Read our Chhota Mangwa Field Notes to find out our experiences there.

Service at the Farmhouse

Service at the Bara Mangwa Farmhouse is impeccable! Riyaz, who tended to my room over the two days I was there, was always smiling and ever accommodating. It was always a pleasure to talk to him and hear his stories. Service is prompt and the staff willing to help.

One of the guests had his birthday during my stay. Others in that party enquired about a cake so that they could celebrate but the farmhouse being so isolated had no access to cakes or stores that made or sold one. The next morning, one of the staff members was going to Kalimpong to get a few items and he, of his own accord, decided to buy a cake and bring it to celebrate the guest’s birthday. It is gestures like this that sets this homestay apart.

The homeliness is evident in the way people listen to you and respond back. I did not feel like I was staying at a hotel and being tended to by the staff; instead, it was closer to being at a refuge with people already inhabiting the idea.

Also read: Who doesn’t love a good breakfast? Here’s how we breakfast in Kolkata: Breakfast Stories: Kolkata.

How to Book a Stay at the Bara Mangwa Farmhouse

The best way to book a stay and get all the relevant information is by visiting their website at http://baramangwafarmhouse.com/reservation.html

The average tariff is around INR 1200 plus taxes for a double. Food is an extra INR 600 per day per head and includes breakfast, lunch, evening snacks, and dinner.

Also read: Heading to Darjeeling next? Check out our itinerary: 3 Days in Darjeeling: Nature Walks & Nostalgia.

Being a Responsible Guest in Indian Homestays | Bara Mangwa

• The public area of the farmhouse is a no-smoking zone. Guests are allowed to smoke in their private quarters.
• Power cuts are frequent. There is a very basic power backup system. We recommend you rather stargaze!
• Expect food cooked with locally available ingredients. Special requests are often honoured by the chefs but keep in mind that the resources here are limited and they may be unable to fulfil a request for a dish that is popular in the plains.
• Do not dump plastic in and around the premises. They are striving hard to be a plastic-free property.
• Bring a refillable water bottle.
• Be kind to your fellow guests, hosts, animals, and plants. If you are touring the orchards, ask before picking fruits.
• Ask before photographing the locals.

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