In Belgrade, the Sava and Danube embrace. Here Art Nouveau masterpieces meet modernist monoliths and piety collides with socialism. It is a city built on resilience, a city with countless wounds, some of which are just starting to heal. It is a city where you can watch the future unfold while resting on relics of the past, a glass of rakija in hand. Spend 3 days in Belgrade tasting the best that this vibrant city has to offer.
Belgrade | Serbia
Belgrade is an enticing mix of old and new. Trams, that look as old as time, rattle past buildings that seem to be aged like fine wines. Sculptures of humans and animals look down on you from cornices and balconies. They stare at the world from over doors and windows. Ceramic trellises and vines adorned with foliage jostle for space with other ornate patterns and motifs. Intricate ironwork and magnificent doors are everywhere in this city. But they are not alone. They share the floor with soaring glass skyscrapers and Brutalist tower blocks. Modern electric buses zap past speakeasy bars and traditional kafanas. Art galleries and coffee shops share space with historic perfumeries and farm shops. It is a city with countless layers, a city shaped by tumultuous events and turbulent history. It is a friendly city, a lively city, a city that is equal parts gritty and charming.
Belgrade reminded us of Calcutta. Not just the rattling trams but the rivers with their wide curves and languorous flow. The kafanas and the bakeries, the fact that the city was alive and breathing and people enjoying themselves well past midnight. The sunshine and the sweaty afternoons, looking for shade and a glass of something chilled to cool ourselves down. It all reminded us of Calcutta, the many hours we had spent ambling through the lanes and bylanes of that grand city, eating at tea houses and street food stalls, and enjoying tram rides through Maidan and College Street.
We spent 3 days in Belgrade on our 7 days Serbia trip. 3 days in Belgrade is barely enough time to understand this grand old city. It is a city crusted with time and history, a city where decisions were made, a city where a war started and ended. In our 3 days in Belgrade itinerary, we cover the best of Belgrade and offer you some excellent suggestions to try some of Serbia’s best dishes.
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How to get from Belgrade Airport to the City Centre
We were trying to go from Belgrade airport to the city centre and almost got scammed by a taxi driver who quoted an eye-watering price. He followed us around for a while till we found the A1 shuttle, a cheap and easy way to get into the city. It was somewhat unnerving and in hindsight, we should have just stayed inside the airport and asked for the bus stop at the information desk. The easiest and cheapest way to get to Belgrade city from the airport is by public transport.
- A1 SHUTTLE: From the baggage collection area, take the lift down to the Departures. Exit the building. The stop for the A1 shuttle is to your right. The A1 Shuttle from Belgrade Airport to Slavija Square (Kralja Milutina Street) takes about 30 min. Note that they do not accept cards. Payment (400 RSD, 2024) is by cash only to the driver. The shuttle runs every 20 minutes.
If you are travelling onwards to Novi Sad, Nis, Subotica, or any other city by bus, take the A1 Shuttle and get off at the Belgrade bus station. - BUS 600: This service connects Belgrade Airport to the Train station “Beograd centar” where you can get trains to Novi Sad. You can spot these buses right outside the Arrivals lounge. They run every 30 min and tickets cost 50 RSD (2024).
If you are travelling with a lot of luggage, consider booking an airport transfer from your hotel or pre-booking a taxi. Try not to book a taxi at the airport because you may end up paying very high prices.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT DAY TICKETS IN BELGRADE: If you are planning to rely on public transport to cover all the places on this 3 days in Belgrade itinerary, we highly recommend buying day tickets to use on buses, trolleys, and trams. Tickets for 1 day or 30 days are available from the Belgrade bus station or at a roadside kiosk. When we visited in April 2024, a day ticket cost 125 RSD at the kiosks.
Where to Stay in Belgrade
We stayed at Iva Old Town, a lovely no-frills hotel near the city centre. It is a 5-minute walk from the Kralja Petra bus and tram stop and close to all the main Belgrade attractions. It is easy to reach from the airport (A1 shuttle to Belgrade bus station, then tram 2 to Kralja Petra). The ensuite room was reasonably priced and came with a mini-fridge, a desk, a chair, and a cupboard. We paid less than £150 for 3 nights (April 2024). The property was tidy and Andre, the owner, was helpful and even offered to upgrade our room. They can also arrange airport transfers for 35 euros.
For a more central location and eclectic vibes, we recommend the highly-rated Mama Shelter on Knez Mihailova. Their service is excellent plus they have amazing views of the Belgrade rooftops. If you love staying at unique accommodations, check out the ArkaBarka Floating Hostel on the Danube.
TOP TIP: Stay near the tram 2 route as it covers all the main destinations that we have mentioned in this Belgrade itinerary.
3 Days in Belgrade: Day 1
20th Century Belgrade Walking Tour & St. Sava’s Temple
We were standing outside Hotel Moskva listening to our walking tour guide when he said there was a time when if you hadn’t had domestic coffee and Moskva Schnitte at Hotel Moskva, you had not visited Belgrade. Inaugurated by King Petar I Karadjordjević in 1908, Hotel Moskva is one of Belgrade’s most iconic landmarks, and it is only fitting that you start your first day in Belgrade with breakfast at this historic hotel. The Moskva Schnitte, a fruit cake layered with sour cherries, is the most famous item on the menu.
After breakfast, join the 20th-century Belgrade walking tour (Mon, Wed, Fri at 10:30 am) by Belgrade Walking Tours. This free tour (donations and tips encouraged) offers a glimpse into Belgrade’s turbulent past. We did this Belgrade walking tour and it helped us get more context and understanding of the history of Belgrade. The tour starts at Republic Square and ends at the awe-inspiring St. Sava’s Temple. On the way, we stopped by the Albania palace, Terazije Square with the famous Hotel Moscow, the National Parliament, Belgrade city assembly and presidency, Tasmajdan Park, St. Mark’s Orthodox Church, Russian Orthodox church, Radio-Television of Serbia – 1999 NATO bombing memorial, the monuments “Why?” and “We were just children”, and wonderful guide, Mihailo, led us through the history of each of these important landmarks in the context of Serbia. We highly recommend this walking tour of Belgrade!
The walking tour ends at St. Sava’s Temple, one of the most important Orthodox places of worship in the world. Outside, it is all marble and granite topped with copper domes. The interiors are adorned with frescoes, colourful mosaics, and stone reliefs. Words can’t do it justice. You have to see it to understand how pristine it is, how beautiful. Don’t skip the underground crypt for it is exceptionally beautiful. Large paintings adorn the walls and the arched vaults add a reverential quality to the place. Walk on the heated floors and marvel at the gleaming gold chandeliers, Murano glass mosaics, and stunning frescoes. However, St. Sava’s is Serbia’s Sagrada Família. Construction, delayed by World Wars, socialism, NATO bombings, and Serbia’s tumultuous past, has been continuing to this day on this 100-year-old temple!
For lunch, head to Ćevabdžinica Savčić Vračar for an introduction to the best of Serbian food: cevapi and pljeskavica. A short 8-minute walk from St. Sava’s Temple, it is the perfect introduction to Serbian cuisine. Finish off with some Tres Leche cake and baklava. Note that there are no vegetarian options on the menu at Savčić. If you are vegetarian/vegan, go to Pizza Bar, a pizzeria popular with locals, instead.
Nikola Tesla Museum & Kalemegdan
After lunch, make your way to the Nikola Tesla Museum where you can see his famous inventions and original archives. Guided tours in English are available and tickets cost 800 RSD (2024).
In the evening, visit Kalemegdan and Belgrade Fortress to see the sunset. Built in stages between the 2nd and 18th centuries, Belgrade Fortress is one of the city’s iconic landmarks. The fortress comprises Upper and Lower Town. The field in front of the fortress was named “Kalemegdan” by the Turks. “Kale”, which means city or fortress and “megdan”, the Turkish word for field, therefore translating to the field near the fortress.
Then pop into Druid Bar, one of Belgrade’s best, for some pre-dinner cocktails. For dinner, we recommend Derdan. Located in the suburbs, this place dishes out mouthwatering Serbian food. We ordered the Muckolica and it was delicious! Portions are large and it seemed like locals eat at Derdan. However, as is the thing with Serbian food, vegetarian/vegan options are limited to salads, roasted peppers, and stuffed vegetables. Bus 21A from Trg Slavija will drop you right at the doorstep.
3 Days in Belgrade: Day 2
Downtown Walking Tour
Grab some breakfast to go from one of Belgrade’s many bakeries. Pekara Trpković is one of the most photographed bakeries in the city. Order the burek here.
Join the Downtown Walking Tour with Belgrade Walking Tours or explore the city centre on your own. Start on Knez Mihailova. Knez Mihailova is as touristy as it gets but it is worth the time. Admire the architecture that guards the street and stop by the many bookstores, especially at Akademia where you can pick up books by Serbian writers. If you love collecting books on your travels, Snippets of Serbia by Emma Fick is the perfect buy! If you fancy art, spend some time at the Art Museum.
WHEN TO VISIT KNEZ MIHAILOVA: If you want to give the crowds a miss, visit Knez Mihailova early in the morning. We were there around 8 am and there were only a few people. Cafes were just opening and setting up the outdoor tables. Sunlight was painting the tops of the buildings in glittering gold. A young woman was sitting on a bench and playing a harp and singing in the most melodious voice. It was so peaceful and otherworldly, a moment that I will forever remember.
Continue towards Skardalija, Belgrade’s bohemian quarter that is choc-a-bloc with traditional kafanas, art galleries, and modern bars. This was the haunt of writers and artists in the early 20th century. The tree-lined cobblestone streets are perfect for a stroll. If you visit in the evening, you can see local musicians playing traditional Serbian tunes at the kafanas. There’s a market at the end of the street where you can find fresh produce and jars of ajvar and pickles. It is very lively, and very romantic and it feels like you have suddenly slipped through time to a different era and we highly recommend spending some time strolling these streets.
NOTE: Skardalija has some traditional kafanas such as Dva Jelena and Tri Sesira where you can enjoy Serbian food and traditional folk music. We spent an evening at Tri Sesira and while the music was great, the food was average. We had a reservation but got seated in an alley and there was a lingering stench from the toilets. Service was barely there, and the staff hardly paid any attention to guests. The glass of water we requested never arrived. If you want to experience the music but are okay with average food and poor service, pick any of the restaurants in Skardalija. Otherwise, spend some time walking through the area, get some drinks at Red Bar, and move on.
National Museum of Serbia or Zemun
In the afternoon, you can either make your way to Trg Republike or Republic Square where you can visit the National Museum of Serbia, or take the bus to Zemun, one of Belgrade’s most picturesque neighbourhoods.
We decided to visit Zemun and enjoy a relaxing afternoon on the river banks. Located on the banks of the Danube is the pretty neighbourhood of Zemun with its red-tiled houses and pretty town centre. The Church of St. Nicholas and the Bardos Tower are the main attractions here but you can spend hours admiring the architecture of the buildings in Zemun.
The Danube riverbank is one of the main attractions in Zemun. It is lined with eateries where you can grab lunch while enjoying the fresh breeze. Later, get some drinks at Crveni Rak or ice cream sundaes at Poslasticarnica Sara and relax.
Ušće Park
Either walk along the riverside path or take a bus to Ušće Park which offers stunning views of the sparkling skyline at sunset. When we visited in spring, the Splavs (floating restaurants) on this bank were closed, but if you want to dine at one of these floating restaurants, cross the bridge to the other side.
If you don’t fancy eating at the splavs, head to Durmitor for dinner. We heard raving reviews about their Steak in Olive Oil but missed out because we didn’t book. Don’t be like us; snag a reservation at least two days early.
For a slice of Belgrade’s nightlife, hit the clubs. If clubbing isn’t up your alley, snag a seat at Riddle Bar, a speakeasy in Kardalija that serves cocktails made to your request. We had the most fabulous time here and we highly recommend that you make some time to visit Riddle Bar on your 3 days in Belgrade trip. The servers are great and the cocktails are fantastic. We tasted five different cocktails and loved each one of them! If you are visiting during the weekend, book in advance. If you don’t find any seats, we recommend Blaznavac for drinks and desserts.
3 Days in Belgrade: Day 3
Pijaca Kalenić and Souvenir Shopping
For breakfast, pick up a burek from Pekara Ranković or Pekara Čeda before you explore Kalenić Market.
If like us, you love touring markets, you will love the Kalenić Market. When we visited in spring, it was overlooking with velvety white lilies, jewel-like strawberries, and the freshest of radishes. Asparagus was just starting to make an appearance and there were piles of lovely Futoški kupus, the famed Serbian cabbage. There were stalls selling braids of local garlic (not the tasteless Chinese ones that have flooded the markets in Edinburgh) and sheaves of dried red chillies. There were also stalls selling bottled ajvar, rakija, homemade jams, bottled blueberry juice, and local honey; if you want to buy an edible souvenir from Serbia, visit the Pijaca Kalenić.
We recommend joining a guided Serbian food tour to get an overview of local Serbian food, their history, and how they have become part of the local gastronomy.
Dorćol and Gallery of Frescoes
One of the best things to do in Belgrade is to stop by the Gallery of Frescoes which houses some of Serbia’s oldest and most beautiful frescoes. Unfortunately, it was closed when we visited but don’t miss it if you are visiting Belgrade.
The gallery is located in Dorćol, Belgrade’s oldest surviving neighbourhood. Dorćol is full of cafes, restaurants, and interesting shops. Here you can find Perfumerija Caba, a vintage perfume shop where you can get a perfume mixed to your taste and temperament by master perfume makes. A 15 ml bottle will set you back by RSD 1700 (2024).
Also located in Dorćol are Ćao Šećeru, a vegan dessert shop where you can try vegan cakes and pancakes, and Crna Ovca, one of Belgrade’s best ice cream shops. Don’t forget to stop by Ferdinand Knedel for their unique and delicious stuffed knödel. Plus they have some excellent vegetarian options!
Belgrade River Cruise
Spend the last evening of your 3 days in Belgrade trip cruising down the Sava River at sunset and admiring beautiful Belgrade. Quite a few companies offer cruises but we recommend the following sunset cruise tour from Viator. This 1.5-hour guided cruise takes you down the Sava and the Danube and you can see the wooded Ada Ciganlija island and around the confluence of the Sava and Danube and spot birds in the wetland reserves of Great War Island.
Get dinner at Iva – New Balkan Cuisine for a modern take on Balkan cuisine or at Mihailo for local fare, then tuck in for an early night. If you are looking for modern European food, we recommend Endorfin.
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What did you think of our 3 days in Belgrade itinerary? What are your top things to do in Belgrade?
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