It has been months since I woke up to birdsong. I unzip the tent’s flap and look out: the morning is oddly foggy for mid-June. We are camping in Fort Stevens State Park at Oregon’s northernmost tip. It is still foggy when we leave an hour later. The dampness clings to the maritime landscape, to the barges slowly plying on the Columbia. The narrow road leading to the marshy beaches is hemmed by windswept trees and shifting dunes on both sides. A series of raised wooden stumps resembling the skeleton of a jetty stretches to our right. Close to the observation platform, two men are collecting their fishing equipment and preparing to return inland. We follow the signs to the wreck of the Peter Iredale, a vessel that ran ashore en route to the Columbia River in 1906 and was abandoned on Clatsop Spit. Its black skeleton appears eerily suspended in the haze. I wonder aloud about the men who were stranded here, on this foggy dune-laden beach with not a community anywhere in sight. They probably starved to death, bodies wrung dry by the brine and stripped by the monstrous winds. We wander awhile on clumps of itchy dune-grass, inhaling the brine-breathing wind, before setting off eastwards. Half an hour later, we reach the first stop on our Oregon coast road trip: Astoria. In front of us, straddling the Columbia River, is Oregon’s most recognized landmarks, the green Megler Bridge that connects Oregon and Washington. 

Foggy Morning at Fort Steven State Park
Foggy Morning at Fort Steven State Park
Peter Iredale Wreck
Wreck of the Peter Iredale

Northern Oregon Coast Road Trip: Astoria

Not so long ago, Astoria– the oldest settlement west of the Rockies– was the weekend haunt of Portlanders who flocked to establishments like Fort George, Buoy, and Rouge Ale to try their craft brews. Like most port towns, Astoria, at first glance, looks chipped and rundown but look closer and you’ll find one of the prettiest towns in this part of the continent. Magnificent Victorian-era mansions find pride of place upon the hillside overlooking the Columbia. Cute cafés, bookstores, galleries, breweries, and boutiques line the main drag. The city also has its fair share of museums where discerning visitors can learn more about the city’s Scandinavian past. Stop for coffee and breakfast at the Astoria Coffee House and Bistro or at Blue Scorcher’s Café known for its bread and baked goods. At Josephson’s Smokehouse, try their much-loved smoked salmon lox-style. For lunch, swing through the doors of Albatross and Co. or Northwest Wild for the freshest local produce. Hop on to the Astoria trolley for a quick trip to the riverfront. If you aren’t crazy about the Goonies, give the Goonies house a miss— the owner has a reputation for disliking visitors— and drive around the 600 ft tall hand-painted Astoria Column before heading south along Highway 101.

Also read: Explore the stunning blue pool on the Blue Pool (Tamolitch Falls) Hike.

Megler Bridge, Astoria
Megler Bridge
Astoria Bayfront Views
Is this a heron?

Cannon Beach, Ecola State Park, Neahkahnie Mountain

The previous evening, we had watched a magical sunset from Cannon Beach. Everything was lit up with an otherworldly glow. The Haystack Rock towered above the beach. The beach was busy. Photographers, children, families, lovers, pets all watched with awe as the sun slipped beneath the horizon and the landscape was suffused in the most tender light. Unlike most parts of the Oregon coast, the hillside around Cannon Beach is crowded with gorgeous mansions. Imagine the amount of cash you must shell for that view! There is no dearth of lovely cafés here either. Sweet Basil is well-known for its Cajun and Creole dishes. If you have time, stop by Pelican Brewery for their craft brews.

Cannon Beach Sunset: Oregon Coast Roadtrip
A man walks his dog on Cannon Beach

One of the best things about a road trip along the Oregon Coast is the multiple opportunities to hike in the pristine surroundings! The Neahkahnie Mountain Trail in the Oswald West State Park is perhaps one of the best hikes along the entire Oregon Coast. The 8-mile loop takes you through an old-growth forest of Sitka spruces and a damp undergrowth of sword fern, salmonberry, and red huckleberry to the Devil’s Cauldron and Cape Falcon. The trail offers breath-taking views of Neahkahnie Beach, Manzanita, and all the way up to the Nehalem Bay Mouth. The year before when we had camped in the Nehalem Bay State Park, a group of my friends had hiked the mountain. The rain had deterred me; I still regret my decision because after they returned they couldn’t stop singing praises of the immaculate views of the Pacific.

Haystack Rock & the Needles
Cannon Beach Sunset
Sunsets at Cannon Beach
Ecola State Park Sunset
Sunset from Ecola State Park

Oregon Scenic Railroad at Garibaldi

Garibaldi and Rockaway Beach don’t feature on most itineraries but if romantic trains rides are your jam, park your car and hop onto the historic steam or diesel locomotives run by the Oregon Scenic Railroad. There are regular 1.5 hr long coastal excursions to and from Rockaway Beach to Garibaldi. The ride is nostalgia-inducing; find a seat in the open carriage and enjoy the ride as the train chugs through the coastal range. They also run a special train in the fall when the leaves are turning shades of maroon, orange, and caramel, a 4th of July fireworks special, and one called the Candy Cane Express during Christmas.

Also read: Fancy a road trip? How about one far away from Oregon in Indian state of palaces and royalty? Check out our Rajasthan Road Trip.

Summer Wildflowers on the Oregon Coast
Wildflowers

Tillamook

Soon we are in the dairy county. Cows graze on pastures and farmlands stretch in the shadow of the coastal mountains. On the way to Tillamook, we cross a small bridge spanning a narrow valley. The light illuminating the deep-V of the wooded valley is so magical it appears divine and lights up our hearts. We wonder aloud if we should retire to this magical slice of land adorned with mountains and birds and countless trees but soon we are driving through busy downtown Tillamook where construction work has created a long line of waiting vehicles. There are numerous hiking trails around Tillamook but the Tillamook Creamery is a must-visit especially if you have kids. The last time we were there, renovations were on, but we still had a good time pressing buttons and giggling as the plastic cow exhibits moo-ed and swung their heads side-to-side. Join the long queues in front of the sampling counters— Tillamook makes some of the best cheese in this part of the world— before heading to the ice cream parlour for delicious scoops, arguably the best that you can savour on this Oregon coast road trip! I recommend the Coffee Almond Fudge, and the Marionberry, if you like fruity flavours, but they also make small-batch flavours that are only available here.

Oregon Coast Roadtrip: Cape Meares
Views from Cape Meares

Three Capes Scenic Route

The plan was to go searching for agates on Short Beach and Tunnel Beach, both favourites of agate seekers, but swirling storm clouds caused a change in plan. We head higher up the coastal mountains until we are on Cape Meares. The Pacific is a brooding shade of steel blue; clusters of bright yellow flowers pop all over the morose coastline. A weirdly contorted Sitka Spruce, lovingly nicknamed the Octopus Tree, is one of the two major attractions here. We join a guided tour of the other attraction, the restored 1890 lighthouse — the shortest lighthouse on the Oregon coast— to see the gigantic Fresnel lens before driving down to Oceanside. Despite the drizzle, families are enjoying their time on the beach. Kids are swimming in the relatively calm waters and building sandcastles in the dirty yellow light that precedes a storm. Cute cafés and houses line the steep hillside overlooking the ocean. As large buttons of rain start hitting our face, we run back to the car and start driving south along the 40-mile long Three Capes Scenic Route.

Cape Meares Lighthouse Fresnel Lens
Reflected on the Fresnel
Oceanside on Oregon Coast Roadtrip
Oceanside

Through gaps in the tapestry of gigantic conifers, we can see the turbulent ocean. There is not much traffic and we drive leisurely, relishing the wilderness and the abandon with which nature has claimed this part of the world as her own. If you’re into clamming, stop at Netarts, a small fishing community on the Netarts Bay. As you climb towards Cape Lookout, the second of the three capes, keep an eye for the sign: “Wildlife Viewing Area.” It marks the beginning of a 2.5-mile trail through old-growth forests to the cape from where you can see all of the Tillamook coastline. You can also spot passing grey whales from this vantage point in spring and winter! The clouds lift as we drive further south, past the Sandlake dunes, and soon we can see the ultramarine ocean and blue skies once again. Cape Kiwanda, perhaps the Oregon coast’s most famous promontory, offers stellar views of yet another Haystack Rock. After you’ve had your fill of watching surfers navigate the surf as it batters the sandstone headland, drive down to Pacific City and into the Cape Kiwanda Brewery where you can chug your beer with mesmerizing views of the ocean and the Haystack Rock in the background.

Cape Meares Viewpoint
Cape Meares

Central Oregon Coast Road Trip: Newport

Enroute to Newport along Highway 101, we stop at the Devil’s Punchbowl which was formed when the roof of two sea caves collapsed. The unforgiving fury of the Pacific further sculpted it giving it the appearance of a massive bowl. During high tide, waves crash into it creating a spectacular visual but during low tide, you can actually explore the caves at the foot of the headland and walk inside the Devil’s Punchbowl. The floor of the caves is dotted with tidal pools and colourful marine creatures. The rocks are slippery, so exert extreme caution on the hike. The shape of the cavern makes for some interesting acoustics! At Depoe Bay, a few miles north of the Devil’s Punchbowl, you can go on whale-watching tours.

Devil's Punchbowl Oregon
Devil’s Punchbowl Natural Area
Sunset on the Oregon Coast Depoe Bay
Sunsets on the Oregon Coast

Newport is one of the busiest towns on the Oregon coast and hums with tourists year-round. It is known for its quirky boutiques, glass-blowing workshops, and restaurants serving fresh seafood. It is home to two of Oregon’s lighthouses— the Yaquina Head Lighthouse which is the tallest on the coast and its oft-forgotten sibling, the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse. Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Centre is located here. Newport Aquarium and the Undersea Gardens are excellent options if you want to see and learn about marine life in this region. We give them a miss and instead we go to say hi to the lazy sea lions sunning at the docks. If you are planning to stay overnight, book a room at the Sylvia Beach Hotel (overlooking Nye Beach) where each room is themed after authors. Take your pick from twenty different authors! Local Oceans Seafood is an excellent place to try the fresh catch of the day. If you are into the craft beer scene, head to Rogue Ales and Spirits. We spend some time strolling on Agate Beach before hitting the road again.

Also read: Go waterfall chasing in Silver Falls State Park. Here’s our travelogue: Silver Falls Field Notes.

Central Oregon Coast
A bright afternoon on the coast
Cape Perpetua Viewpoint
View from Cape Perpetua

Yachats, Cape Perpetua, Florence

The good thing about summer in these latitudes is it’s still light really late in the day. We head southwards towards Yachats (pronounced: Ya-hots). Seal Rock, perhaps one of my favourite spots on the coast, is alive with gulls. Bundles of neon-green seaweed lay limp along the edge of the beach. The exposed rocks are encrusted with mussels and barnacles. Before the colonizers drove them away, native Americans hunted mussels, sea urchins, crabs, clams, and other seafood in these rich waters.

Cook's Chasm Spouting Horn
Spouting Horn at Cook’s Chasm
Oregon Coast
Oregon Coast Views

Two miles south of Yachats is Cape Perpetua, another jewel on the Oregon Coast. In the dusty rose of the evening, the landscape takes on a dreamy look. Colourful cabins and summer homes, spaced far apart from one another, dot the densely wooded hillside. On the way are a series of streets each named after the states on the West Coast. The coastline becomes increasingly dramatic as we head further south; the smooth beaches are replaced by beaches with exposed volcanic rocks, eroded sea caves, and other formations. Thor’s Well, Devil’s Churn, and the Spouting Horn at Cook’s Chasm are well-known features and are most active during high tide. There are multiple hiking trails here; the Whispering Spruce trail offers gorgeous views of the coast to the south. If hiking is your jam, take on the 26 miles of interconnected trails that wind through old-growth forests and goes down to tidal pools swarming with anemones and starfishes. Further south is the picture-postcard pretty Heceta Head Lighthouse and the lovely sand dunes of Florence, the last town on the Central Oregon Coast, where you can end the day with a sumptuous dinner at the Waterfront Depot.

Devil's Churn
Devil’s Churn

Oregon Coast Road Trip: Orientation

Astoria to Florence via Highway 101 & Oregon Coast Highway: 188 miles.

Astoria is 97 miles from Portland and takes around 2 hrs to reach via the Columbia Highway. If you’re taking the South to North route, Eugene is 67 miles from Florence and the drive via OR 126 W takes around 1.5 hrs.

The weather on our Oregon coast road trip– we were travelling in late spring– was a mix of sunny and rainy. Make sure you pack layers and don’t forget to carry a raincoat. If you are planning to hike, swim, or surf, carry your required clothing and gear.

Campsites in State Parks (N to S):

  • Fort Steven State Park, Warrenton
  • Nehalem Bay State Park
  • Cape Lookout State Park
  • Beverly Beach State Park, Newport
Oregon Coast in Spring
Near Cape Perpetua

Mohana & Aninda

Mohana and Aninda are travellers and advocates for car-free travel. Two-together is their travel blog where they document their travels to encourage and inspire readers to seek solace in new places, savour local cuisines, and relish both unique and everyday experiences. When they are not travelling, they are actively researching trip ideas and itineraries, obsessing over public transport timetables, reviewing travel budgets, and developing content for their blog. They are currently based in Edinburgh and exploring Scotland and beyond by public transport.

59 responses to “Oregon Coast Road Trip: Northern & Central Oregon”

  1. Jenn and Ed Coleman Avatar
    Jenn and Ed Coleman

    I love your photography. You capture the light and the mood so well. Cannon Beach is gorgeous and I am a sucker for foggy mornings. We used to live in Pacific Beach CA and the fogged in mornings were my favorites. It’s light you get to enter another world that magically and mysteriously appears and disappears. The world is different in a bank of fog.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Thanks <3 I completely agree with you; fog adds this fascinating layer of mystery to any landscape. It’s like exploring a completely different world.

    2. madhu-on-the-go Avatar
      madhu-on-the-go

      Photographs are simply amazing..I kept looking at them .looks like Oregon coast is an Amazon ng place to explore.hope I get a chance to do it soon thanks for sharing details

  2. Krupa Nagda Avatar
    Krupa Nagda

    We are planning a road trip to Oregon in April 2019 hopefully. I see lot of beautiful places to visit there. And pictures in your blog tempt me more to hit there soon. thanks for sharing.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Thanks, Krupa! The entire coast in Oregon is public and thus accessible. There are state parks all along the coast. If you have time, you must go further north and visit Washington’s stunning Olympic Peninsula.

  3. ourhungrytummies Avatar
    ourhungrytummies

    Breathtaking pictures! We know how difficult it can be to photograph bodies of water but you nailed it! Loving those waves!

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Thank you so much! The Pacific is so much more moody and gray in the winter.

  4. Candy Avatar
    Candy

    I’ve never considered making an Oregon Coast road trip, but after seeing your photos I am intrigued! The sunset at Cannon Beach is amazing and such a beautiful photo you captured.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Highway 101 offers some spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean and the coastal ranges. I’d also recommend a road trip along the Columbia Gorge. It’s incredibly beautiful!

  5. Nic Hilditch-Short Avatar
    Nic Hilditch-Short

    Wow, I never thought of Oregon as somewhere with such an incredible coastline as this. It reminds me of the coast outside of Melbourne so much. These are some incredible photos too. This really makes me want to visit.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      The Oregon coast is breathtaking! Winters are rainy and bleak but in summer, the Oregonian coast becomes gorgeous! You must visit!

  6. Michael Hodgson Avatar
    Michael Hodgson

    The entire West coast is one spectacular scene after another from the California / Mexico border all the way north to the Washington / Canada border. Been my playground for many years and still have barely experienced its many moods. NEVER be surprised by coastal fog in June. 😉 There is a reason Mark Twain once wrote, ” The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco.” One the reasons the coast is so green and lush. You captured it perfectly in words and photos. Loved reading this and so glad you had a great adventure in my extended backyard.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Thanks, Michael. I moved back to India and I miss the Oregon coast. It’s one of my favourite parts of the world.

  7. Brianna (@ArchivesofAdv) Avatar
    Brianna (@ArchivesofAdv)

    Exquisite photography! Wow! Oregon’s coast looks like it makes an amazing road trip! I’d love to do this and camp along the way!

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Thank you, Brianna! There are lots of campgrounds along the length of the coast. I’d say take an RV and spend a week exploring the coast.

  8. Kreete | AdventurousTrails Avatar
    Kreete | AdventurousTrails

    Wow you just create pure magic. Your way with words and beautiful photography makes any place sound like straight from a fairy tale. I can officially say, Oregon ‘s coast is on my list because of this.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      That’s a definite #blogwin! Thanks, Kreete! ♥

  9. Astrid Vinje Avatar
    Astrid Vinje

    The Oregon coast is so beautiful! We spent some time in Canon Beach this summer and had so much fun. I wish we could have had time to visit Tillamook, but maybe next time. Your photos are beautiful!

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Thank you, Astrid! The area around Tillamook is particularly stunning. The rolling pastures look beautiful in the shade of the coastal range.

  10. Melody Pittman Avatar
    Melody Pittman

    What a fantastic, scenic trip to make! I love everything about Oregon that I’ve seen (Astoria was so adorable) but you’ve added some new destinations for my next visit. Tillamook for sure!

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Thanks, Melody! There’s quite a lot to do in Tillamook. Some good hikes plus the delicious ice cream at the creamery!

  11. Purvi Kamaliya Avatar
    Purvi Kamaliya

    Really fell in love with all the pictures here, they speak thousands words. Would definitely love to go for this road trip with m y partner. Thanks for this elaborate route details.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      You’re welcome!

  12. Indu Avatar
    Indu

    Wonderful photography of Oregon coast. Road trips are always fascinating and make us enjoy the journey to the fullest.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Road trips are amazing, aren’t they?

  13. Lance Avatar
    Lance

    You have stunning pictures. Of course, you have an amazing landscape with the Oregon Coast. The Oregon Coast is one of my favorite places on the planet. Its beauty in unparalleled. I’ve spent a lot of time in Southern Oregon, but have never spent time in Northern Oregon, so this definitely gives me some ideas for future travels. Astoria, here we come!

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      The landscape sure is breath-taking!

  14. Sarah - Borders & Bucket Lists Avatar
    Sarah – Borders & Bucket Lists

    ooh I love that this is a more centralized road trip instead of one that tries to tackle like six states in seven days.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      The best thing about this road-trip is you can extend it as long as you wish to, really, and camp along the coast! There are gorgeous hiking trails all along the way.

  15. amongstromans1 Avatar
    amongstromans1

    oh wow that beach is absolutely stunning!

  16. Annie Avatar
    Annie

    Your photos are making me want to go! The skies and nature all look so unbelievably magical. Hopefully I can see it myself someday

  17. monicavaklinova Avatar
    monicavaklinova

    You gave me a serious travel inspiration! I am in love with your captures and your writing style! I’ve never had any desire to visit these places but after reading this post and looking at your photography I am definitely fascinated by the idea! Can’t wait to see your next adventure! 💗

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Thank you, Monica! Oregon is a must-visit. The scenic beauty of the state is beyond words.

  18. katerina Avatar
    katerina

    Your photographs are really amazing and convey the beauty of the landscape! How magic could be to watch the sunset from the Canon beach?

  19. Kylee Avatar
    Kylee

    What an amazing journey! Your writing paints a beautiful picture and your photos are the icing on the cake. Great post!!

  20. Kylee Avatar
    Kylee

    Such an amazing trip this sounds like. Your words paint such amazing pictures, and your photos are the icing on the cake. Great post!

  21. Katie Avatar
    Katie

    Your images are beautiful! I’ve only been to Portland in Oregon and would love to see more of the state… it looks so green and full of nature. Beautiful images and words, thanks for sharing 🙂

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      The coast is a short 2 hrs from Portland. You should also visit the Columbia Gorge and perhaps drive to Bend via the Dalles. We drove from Waldo Lake to Portland via the gorge and the scenery was picturesque!

  22. Céline Avatar
    Céline

    Amazing photos! I’ve never visited Oregon but you definitely made me want to go there. The Three Capes Scenic Route looks beautiful.

  23. Ankan Avatar
    Ankan

    beautiful pictures…and nice place to be…the coastal scenes are tremendous..

  24. ansh997x Avatar
    ansh997x

    Your description of Oregon Coast becomes more fascinating with the photos that you have used. I would love to explore this part of the globe at some moment in life.

  25. Opposite Tourists Avatar
    Opposite Tourists

    Sounds like an epic road trip through Oregon. What great photography. Those coastal photos look amazing and really capture the mood.

  26. Chandni Avatar
    Chandni

    The Neahkahnie Mountain Trail sounds amazing! That is definitely one thing I will try 🙂

  27. Claire Avatar
    Claire

    Oh wow this place is so ridiculously atmospheric and beautiful! The Haystack Rock and the Needles what a sight! Your photographs are fantastic

  28. Su Bha Sun Avatar
    Su Bha Sun

    Absolutely stunning photographs. You have captured this coast so beautifully. All the lights and moods were captured so well and neat. Loved your writing style. This is a serious inspiration for me.

    1. Mohana and Aninda Avatar
      Mohana and Aninda

      Thank you so much! 🙂

  29. Ee Sing Avatar
    Ee Sing

    Beautiful place! and amazing photographs too! Even from the photo i can gauge whats like being surrounded by this much of beauty

  30. Aswathiashok Unnikrishnan Avatar
    Aswathiashok Unnikrishnan

    Wow loved your post! The pictures look amazing.Love the perspective of the photographer📸😍👌Thanks for sharing!

  31. footlooseinme Avatar
    footlooseinme

    What a wonderful post with such outstanding pictures. This is an amazing coastline and your captivating pictures lures me to visit there. 🙂

  32. paulinaklimkiewicz Avatar
    paulinaklimkiewicz

    the photography in this post is unreal! makes me want to go to oregon when i come back to the US!

  33. Charlotte Avatar
    Charlotte

    Your photos are stunning! I don’t know what I thought Oregon would look like, but that’s not it haha. Great post 🙂

  34. Chittra M Avatar
    Chittra M

    Stunning pictures. It looked like straight out of a movie. And look so calm like the place was all for you guys..

  35. josypheen Avatar
    josypheen

    Goodness. Your photos are just lovely! It seems like you spent a lot of time by the coast during golden hours! I love the way you have captured all those waves and sunrises/sunsets!

  36. Lisa Avatar
    Lisa

    Damn, the photos in this post are amazing! Few things as awesome as road tripping 😀

  37. Joanna Avatar
    Joanna

    Your photos are amazing! I love going on road trips, especially in less touristy destinations. Oregon Coast looks like a perfect destination for me, the scenery is simply amazing.

  38. florabaker Avatar
    florabaker

    What a stunning photo essay! I spent a year living in San Francisco yet strangely never made it to Oregon, so I’d love to take this journey one day!

  39. Daisy Avatar
    Daisy

    Love the photos! Devil’s Punchbowl seems like a dream! Definitely going to do in roadtrip one day!

  40. Marlene Marques Avatar
    Marlene Marques

    Amazing images!! Congratulations! To be able to hike through those places is such a privilege. Super inspiring!

  41. kmf Avatar
    kmf

    Love your photos! Such a beautiful place that I’ve yet to visit.

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