Recent Posts

Tamolitch Falls (Blue Pool) Hike, Oregon

Tamolitch Falls (Blue Pool) Hike, Oregon

In Oregon’s picturesque Willamette National Forest, you can hike among conifers and along the Mackenzie River to the surreal, topaz blue Blue Pool.

Remembering La Bella, Ahmedabad

Remembering La Bella, Ahmedabad

Homesick and craving meat in Ahmedabad, I found a slice of home in a tiny eatery named La Bella. Run by Mrs Lobo, it serves Goan curries and comfort food.

My Introduction to Iftar: Beyond the Zakaria Street Ramadan Food Walk, 2018

My Introduction to Iftar: Beyond the Zakaria Street Ramadan Food Walk, 2018

Chaotic is the operative word to go by if you ever find yourself lost in the lanes and bylanes of Colootola during Iftar. An unfailing melting pot, Calcutta has always been a place where differences in cultural narratives are not only embraced and celebrated but also shared, often over food. Thus, it comes as no surprise when thousands throng the Ramadan celebrations around Nakhoda Mosque, sharing tables and opinions as they wait for the siren to mark the end of the day’s fasting. Nobody asks you your religious or ethnic identity. Nobody asks if you are a believer or not. You join the locals around rickety makeshift tables, perspiring and praying for a cool draught of wind while sipping on glasses of milky kesari chai. All around you, in brightly lit shops people holler for the best bargain and owners of street food stalls hang skewers of marinated meat from hooks, arrange delicate rolls of lachha, stir cauldrons of haleem in preparation for the evening. Nobody can tell at what point this chaotic come-together floods the confines of a religious ritual to become a carnival, a celebration of life, under the summer skies of Calcutta.

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Revolver, Darjeeling: A Home Away from Home

Revolver, Darjeeling: A Home Away from Home

Not so much a review as a warm recollection of why I return to the Revolver, a Beatles-themed hotel hidden in the hills of Darjeeling.

Field Notes: Silver Falls State Park, Oregon

Field Notes: Silver Falls State Park, Oregon

Hiking the Trail of Ten Waterfalls in the Silver Falls State Park in Silverton, OR is a lesson in the art of observation.

A Nostalgist’s Guide to Eating in Darjeeling

A Nostalgist’s Guide to Eating in Darjeeling

The only true downside of eating everything under the sun is that sometimes even renowned institutions can leave you in a state of tepid dissatisfaction. Heavy blows, if you have not only spent countless nights pondering on what to eat in Darjeeling but also obsessing on menus to figure out what to order and then fantasised about the flavour profiles of individual dishes. My first foray into taking a bite out off the high street of Darjeeling cuisine turned out to be one such misadventure. Debanjan, my co-traveller on this trip who puts up with my questionable dining choices was pretty pleased with Ara by Bellevue when we walked in on a quiet Sunday afternoon. Chic with upholstery that can be described as urban hip, Ara is the newest gastropub to open its doors to the people of Darjeeling.

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Lepchajagat: A Story of Change

Lepchajagat: A Story of Change

The lack of awareness about responsible tourism in the Darjeeling Himalayas is leading to a loss of cultural identity in hamlets like Lepchajagat. How can we help?

Field Notes: Darjeeling

Field Notes: Darjeeling

কুয়াশা ঘেরা দার্জিলিঙের গল্প, কথায় আর ছবিতে।

Finding Love in Fontainhas, Goa

Finding Love in Fontainhas, Goa

For nine months, all we had were Skype and WhatsApp to bridge the invincible time gap of 12.5 hrs that stood like a wall between us. In the excitement of seeing each other after so long, we hurriedly planned a short trip to Goa when I returned to India over the summer. What I had failed to consider was the fact that two weeks prior to departing the US, I had taken my first shot of Depo-Provera and now my hormones were fucked up to the point that I was behaving like a raging maniac at the drop of a hat. I was oscillating between calm and angry every few hours. I felt bloated all the time. The fantasies that had kept me alive were replaced by technicolour dreams of how to plan the funeral of my libido. Add to that frustration, my digestive enzymes had declared a strike which meant I could hardly put any of the food I was craving for almost a year into my mouth without any fear of repercussions. Thus, after a romantic date at one of Goa’s best restaurants, we walked home except that our walk in the sea-tinged night air was anything but romantic; I was rambling inebriated and clutching my stomach, sweating profusely, as we desperately searched for the nearest loo.

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How to Navigate a Telebhaja’r Dokan

How to Navigate a Telebhaja’r Dokan

Your complete guide to navigating Kolkata’s delicious repertoire of chops, cutlets, and all types of telebhaja aka fried food.